Value question ..... again
 

All,
I am going to look at a Ruby 40th anniversary tonight with low miles ( less than 40k) A4 with a cracked top. Looking at the prices on here and other places, these cars are all over the board. Guy said he wants to sell it because it never gets driven and it seems like when it does, it always has another issue that pops up. I already have a high number in my head of 8k. What your thoughts?

Ask these questions:
1. Are there maintenance records you can show me?
2. Happen to have a Car Fax?
3. Any known issues you may have overlooked?

Look at these things:
1.Tires
2. Weather stripping (all of it)
3. Interior condition seats, condition & operation
4. Glass
5.All options work PDL, PW, AC, Heater, Stereo, CC, FX3 if equipped
6. Paint Condition/ Panel condition (cracks)
7. headlight operation

Test Drive Observations:
1. Listen for odd drive train noises
2. Use your nose to smell for oil burning, sweet smell for coolant when you run the defrost
3. Wheel, drive train vibrations
4. Brakes pulling?
5. Is it aligned correctly? Let go of the wheel on a flat road, does it pull or wander?
6. After youre done, look under the hood for any steam or smoke or leaks etc

Ok, now that you have made an assessment of overall condition you can make an intelligent offer that wont insult the seller.I think if the car is in VERY good condition, 8k isnt out of the ball park. If its average like most C4's, more like $6k to $7k depending on how much you think you will need to spend to get it where it would need to be.

Good Luck!:cheers:

The fact that he said there was a crack in the top has me a little worried and how he said that every time he drives it some little issue pops up. Could be that he is very anal and wants everything perfect or that there are bigger issues. He is asking 10k, so we may be way far off. My last vette was a barn find that took 2500+ over what I paid for it to get going, even now there are little things, but it is pretty good, but I don't know if I want to spend that much on another one to get running and driving correctly.
Thanks for the reply.

Also smell down in where the overflow bottle is, down in front of the passenger side tire. The 96 I bought had a pinhole leak due to the plastic side tanks of the radiator. It just now is getting close to 18,000 miles. It isn't a mileage factor but an age factor on the OEM plastic tanked radiators needing to be replace.

That is one that I haven't heard yet....thanks for the tip.

I'd do an examination myself, and if I was serious I'd have a trusted mechanic knowledgeable about Vettes give it a pre-purchase inspection. There's too many things that might be wrong or an issue unless it can be put up on a lift, etc. It could cinch the deal, kill it or give you some bargaining power.

My thoughts.

one of the best suggestions yet. you need to look at the frame underneath the battery to see if a leaking battery ate a hole in the frame

C4 Pre Buy Inspection Checklist

Any squawks can equal bargaining power.

If you refurbed your last vette you should have an idea of what is wrong or needs attention. Condition is key and any kind of records is second. Some people hate getting nickel & dimed to death and should not have an older car.

Guys,

I stopped and looked at it. Talked to the owner. He is the ex-spouse of the original owner. The car has original tire and shocks with 26000 miles on it. He said that he had the fuel lines and fuel pump replaced a couple years ago due to it sitting all the time. It does have a 2 inch crack in the top in the middle and a few scratches here and there where it may have hit a curb with the front. Looks like it got a little battery acid on the one panel next to the battery as well. Weatherstripping seems ok and interior is in good shape. I was thinking of offering 6k, is that going to be an insult?

I've got a really clean 92 auto with 68,000 miles now. If someone offered me $6k to $7k I'd laugh in their face and say see ya, don't call back. Have a nice day.

I'd pass on the car period. There are pristine C4's out there. I paid $9.5k for it. Did it need some work? Yup, cars this old you never know what problem is going to be next. Got about $11k into it now. Drives like a new car, interior is like NEW, paint is what is to be expected (a few chips on the front hood). FX3 (works), sport seats and G92 (must have).

Those probably should be slated for replacement because of age. I wouldn't drive with those tires. I don't trust that old a shock so figure on $1000 if it is FX3 and maybe $500-600 if it isn't. Tires are another $1000 at least for good rubber.

Receipts or not done unless you want to verify.

Another $1200 bucks to fix assuming it is acrylic unless you want to send it in for to have the lens redone.

And what other damage has that acid done? Why did acid leak?

Probably have to replace weatherstripping due to age.

Assuming bushings are not dry rotted, I'd check if he has hidden anything from you with your own scanner. Also check compression. Basically, I'd have a PDI done.

I would start at $5000 based on the above assuming nothing else is wrong.

Thanks guys for the insight. The guy was a very nice fella and told me to come back and take it for a good test drive, he said 50 or 60 miles and then make an offer. I guess that is what I need to do.

I paid 9k for my '94 63,000 mile polo green coupe, auto (highway gears) really nice tan interior, working Bose stereo, and electronic climate control. Everything on the car functions as it should. Had new tires, very good original paint one small pea size blemish on driver's seat. It was at a dealer and I couldn't really find a bargaining chip. I think prices may vary regionally too, I've seen similar cars to mine going for 12-14k but from private sellers. I put about 2k into it a couple of weeks after purchase (lower ball joints, oil pan gasket, new starter and battery) at my local Chevy dealer not because I can't do the work but because I don't have time to make it another project. Just my experience, it is an old car despite the obvious care it received prior to my ownership. Good luck.

Surprised no one mentioned the Opti-Spark. Does the PKE work, or at least come with the Key Fobs? Just turning the key and looking at the DIC to see which lights come on or don't which is an indication that the bulbs have been removed. Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions to the seller or CF. This place is a wealth of info.:thumbs:
Mark

Laugh in their face or not, you still own a 6-7k C4... get over it dude! The reason you wouldnt take that is because you paid 9500 for it and have a total of 11k in it.... Why WOULD you take 6 or 7k? The car he is looking at doesnt sound as if it were in pristine like new condition..... Its a normal driver with normal driver wear. :cheers:

If the owner is really asking $10,000.00 for it and you only offer him $6000.00, what do you think he'll say?....:lol: I'd tell you to take a hike too! Your asking him to knock off almost half of his asking price! Show him a few ad's listing comparable C4's for sale and see what his reason's are for the $10K price. You may do better than $10k, but I'd be interested in why he feels that price is fair. If he jumps down to $6k from $10k immediately and doesn't try to negotiate any more, run away....fast.:yesnod:

Of course he wants you to take it for a test drive. Ask any car salesman honestly. Once you get behind the wheel, your imagination takes over and makes you do things you might not do if you weren't behind the wheel and got the "Corvette Fever". Had a used car salesman that wanted us to leave our car there even when we said we were going for lunch to talk it over. Suggested we could leave the car and just go to the next door building for a super burger. Once you leave, you might come to your senses and not buy. Driving the car, you let your imagination take over and guilt that you are driving someone who was so nice to let you try it clouds your decision.