Remote Tuning an LS3 swapped C5
 

I am interested in having my 2000 C5 6 speed FRC tuned in the next couple of weeks. It's a basic L92/LS3, pretty much stock besides a BTR Stage 2 LS3 cam, springs, longtube headers, cutouts, using the stock LS3 intake manifold with LS2 silver blade throttle body. I'm running a Lingenfelter 58x to 24x converter box so all tuning is done through the stock 2000 PCM.

There is a map flashed to the car from an acquaintance of mine who was running a similar setup on his car, and it drives decently around town under 1/3 throttle. It bogs pretty hard above that, so I'm taking it very easy. The idle does surge when coming to a stop, but it doesn't die. I want to make sure the driveability is great.

I'm in Buffalo and have Standard Suite HPTuners. I would rather try some remote tuning via logs if I can to avoid the trip to a dyno shop as my work schedule is kind of difficult. The only issue would be my lack of a wideband, and I have the Standard Suite of HPtuners. Would I need to purchase those items to make remote tuning work?

Who currently offers remote tuning? I reached out to Chuck Cow a couple days ago, no word back yet.

Standard hptuners lacks serial wideband input correct? You can run one of the wideband analog outputs into the (unused) EGR pin on the C5 PCM. Enable EGR in the tune and now you have a loggable 0-5v wideband input--make a custom PID and you're set. It's the only sticky thread in this section.

Some/most tuners will probably say they don't need a wideband to tune a N/A car and get it pretty darn close based on fuel trims....but IMO a wideband is always a good idea.

I have a Innovate LC-2 wired into my x-pipe permanently. I did the analog input into the EGR pin, but now I also have EFIlive so I just run the serial cable to it. Ideally you would want to account for a voltage offset if you go the EGR pin route... kind of in the weeds, but you need to else your reading will likely be .1-.2 AFR off.

email tuning is getting more and more popular so I'm sure theres lots more these days, but here are a few that I have used that have been doing it for a while:

https://www.tunedbynishan.com/support.html

https://www.guerragroup.com/efi-tuning

I ended up contacting a couple different places. Based on reviews and feedback, I went with Pat G Tuning. Sent him the old LS1 tune, waiting on my first tune to come back now.

I actually replied to your e-mail the other day.
 

I actually replied to your e-mail the other day. I believe possibly a PM as well.

I can tell you that we have the most effective remote tuning option that employs a digital serial RS232 wideband.

Its inexpensive and and very flexible.

CLICK THIS LINK TO GO TO OUR AUTOCAL PAGE.



914-332-0049
Chuck CoW

How'd it turn out?

We are working through it now, I'm about to upload Revision 4. So far a very easy process. Flash a tune with HPT, drive around a bit logging, make notes, send results back to Pat. The driveability on the initial tune was already very close so improvements are minimal, but positive. We are about to start the WOT tuning, which itself is close as well.

Glad it's working out for you. I've had great results in general doing remote tuning... both street datalogging and actually on the dyno.

I actually hit up Pat G after I posted in here regarding future mod/future tune update, but It's been almost 2 weeks and still no response. Was curious if he was still active or not. Might have to find another option when the time comes.

send this guy a pm, blownbluez06

No issues with Pat's tune, we are still working through some knock sensor issues where it's randomly pulling 6 degrees of timing. Sometimes he can take between a couple days to a week to reply with a new tune revision, but that seems somewhat reasonable and I don't mind waiting if it means the highest quality/safest tune.

Dude! I can/could have helped. You're welcome to borrow my wideband, and/or hptuners pro. I think you can run the VM Scanner without re-licencing.

Appreciate the offer, but since I've never tuned a car before it was well worth paying a pro to walk me through the process. I learned a fair amount, the next LS build I do I'll definitely be tuning myself.

Yeah, I get that it's comfortable to go with a name brand shop. If it helps, as he gets into fine tuning we can do some logging with my HP Tuners and wideband.

I think we have it pretty much wrapped up except for an issue where it's pulling 6 degrees of timing (KR) under WOT. Throws code P0327 and P0332. If I set those codes to No Error Reported it no longer pulls timing, but I'm concerned that the knock sensors won't be able to detect an actual issue if it occurs. We have tried decreasing knock sensor sensitivity to an extent. At this point I'd like to verify that there are no mechanical or wiring issues before desensitizing too much. Thoughts?

Crazy things can happen to cause actual knock, such as incorrectly seated valves, hot spots and improper fuel mixture. Is it only happening at WOT? If the knock sensors are at the correct angle and wired there is likely an issue.

Only at WOT. No audible knock at all, but my valvetrain is louder than the old LS1.

I did change the Knock Sensor type from "cylinder" to "engine" today and it's at least responding more favorably. Now I get only a degree or two at WOT depending on TPS, rather than an immediate plateau of 6 degrees KR from before.

Knock happens in counts per period of time, usually the threshold is 50-200 before an event is registered. A number of events in the same place on the table cause the ECU knock retard, (timing to be pulled). You should be logging knock events vs rpm and map, and comparing it to throttle position and a wideband.

Do the head mounted knock sensors need to be clocked?

All my sensors are block mounted. Front top boss on the driver's side, and next to the dipstick where it enters the oil pan on the passenger. The sensors are for a 2000 C5.

Go into the config file for the tune and make sure that 'resonant' type knock sensors are selected. Also, can you confirm if it's burst knock or real knock that's pulling timing? If the tuner pulled an LS3 file it may be set up for the newer style sensors which work differently. Log knock counts and post it up.

No option for "resonant" on sensor type for a 2000 C5 file. Only "Engine" and "Cylinder".

It's definitely not burst knock because I zero'd out the table that pulls burst knock timing and still get it.