Installed pics of LG drop spindles where they meet control arms
 

Anyone have any? Looks odd to me, but maybe that's just the way they are... Stiff to steer too... I feel like this is kinda a no brainer install, so it has me confused as to why it just doesn't seem quite right.

I am assuming you have them already on your car, so it might help if you posted pics for comparison purposes.

And moving to C5 Tech.

I have them & lots of pictures but not sure if they show exactly what you want, I will post a few & also some issues I had, I intend to pull my wheels for cleaning probably on Thu/Fri & I will get more photos.

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You have to install your ABS sensor brackets, but the spindle is not drilled & tapped, I installed mine as shown but they are a little low, you cannot put exactly where they were on your stock spindles unless you modify the bracket, the drop spindle has more material.

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The emergency cable bracket will not bolt up due to the spindle having more material unless you modify it or do as I did & add washers, I intend to buy more brackets & bend to fit, but have not had any issues the way I did it.
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I will post more pictures later showing the ABS wire routing issues, how my control arms sit & more. They aren't cheap but if you want proper suspension travel & a low ride height it is the way to go, I am currently 2+ inches lower than stock, my puck locations are 3.75" from the ground stock is 6"

The spindles have a 1/2 degree of camber machined in so if you mark your camber bolts & set as they were you gain that camber & you get toed out just by bolting them on.


19's spindles & stock bolts
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20's spindles & coilovers
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Thanks guys. I almost put this in tech to start, sorry. I've installed the fronts I think they just look odd because of them not having boots on the ball joints. Also, I think I overtightened the nuts and that's why it's stiff. I'm going to back them off a tad and see how that feels.

I'm starting on the rears tonight. Hoping the parking brake isn't a big pita.

Presuming you had the front re-aligned after the instal, given your comments about camber change and toe.

I did not realize you already had them, just thought you were looking to purchase, I would hope you are using correct torque specs to install? also the nut on the top of the pin that goes into the spherical bearing you should torque to 50ft lbs.

If you were asking me, yes, I did my own alignment.

Thank you very much Steve for all of the good pics and info, I really do appreciate it.

Unfortunately I didn't have torque specs handy. I got these second hand and there were no instructions. I called LG Friday and again today, I've have had mixed results getting good info. Either way, after going back and loosening bolts I don't believe that anything was over tightened after all. If anything I feel like things were too loose...

With the stock spindle in place I can easily turn it side to side. With these in place it's quite stiff. Do you remember yours being this way.

Now that I have a manual for factory specs and your info for the top nut I'm going to make a run back to work and get my torque wrench. Only issue is on the lower ball joint and tie rod...If they want to spin you can't get a socket on them while holding the joint with an Allen.....

I purchased mine new & there were no instructions, I had to call LG about the nut for the spindle pin & did not get a definite answer on torque spec, they also told me they don't use the ABS sensors on race cars, so no reason to drill to mount the wire bracket.

As far as the ball joint nuts as you can see on torque specs there are 3 passes, I just snugged mine up until the ball joint would not spin, using an open end wrench & an allen, made sure I had the 1st pass torque, I do not have a torque angle meter so I just used the nut flats for my degrees or you can use the high points on the nuts, each one being 60 degs putting a mark on the spindle and the nut with a sharpie as my starting point, and then making sure I had the final pass torque. My spindles were a little tight but not to the point that I could not twist them by hand.

I just noticed if you look at picture #7 you can see my black sharpie marks for the tie rod nut.

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/t...que_Values.pdf

Good link to the torque specs, thank you!

After breaking everything loose, including unseating everything I tried doing it that way. 50 on the top nut, no problem. The rest though is not right. It is WAY tighter than I had it. I can't even get through step two before it's tighter than I'm comfortable making it and it's DEFINITELY over the max torque of step three. Simply turning the steering wheel is difficult. It's work. I can grab the rotor and cannot turn the steering from side to side it's so tight.

I feel like with all new components and hardware then maybe that method works? For me it's no bueno. I'm not sure how easily it worked out for you. Right now I'm thinking about breaking everything back loose and just giving it all a couple ugga duggas with my impact. :confused2:

Ugh, I haven't even started on the back yet... The front legit only takes half hour per side and that's with swapping out caliper and rotors...with all this confusion I have two nights in an hour job and still don't know why.

Not sure why the issue, maybe just use the 3rd pass torque spec and see where that gets you, I do remember when I did my final pass it was over the 3rd pass spec, maybe my idea is incorrect does not give the same degrees as an angle meter.

And when you are talking about hard to steer did you try it with the car running? or isn't that currently possible.

Degrees are degrees, 360 of them in a full circle, so I would think your method is right. It's what I'd have done.

I haven't started the car. I'm sure it would steer easier with the pump running, but it's still not right. I do collision repair and it's a daily occurrence to, with the front of the car in the air, turn the steering from side to side by hand for access to fasteners. I've never come across one I can't turn. I think I could shit myself trying to turn this one and still not get it! lol

I just checked the angle meter versus cheaters method & it is correct, on the spindles the tie rod is disconnected when you are moving the spindle?
if not is the steering wheel unlocked?

Couple more things, is the spindle binding/rubbing anywhere on the control arms? I know the top is real close to the arm.

Your ball joint has to move freely and you can only insert it so far into the spindle, the top pin is in a spherical bearing which moves real easy, I put some never seize on mine where the pin fits into the bearing.

Ball joints original or replacement?

Some detail shots, possibly some good reference info to be seen.

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How tight you go should have no effect on how it rotates. The rotation is in the lower ball joint that stays with the lower control arm and the upper bearing that comes in the spindle. So if the original spindle turned easily yet the LG one turns very hard, then either the upper bearing is bad or it's rubbing somewhere.

Make sure the rear lower control arm does not contact the inner wheel barrel. All the ones I have seen need to have some material removed from the control arm on both C5/C6.:thumbs:

I agree, or if the tie rod is connected it may have something to do with the steering rack, since they are used that upper bearing could be seized.

Also were they marked front & rear when you bought them?

What size rims were being used? I know their is a minimum I ran 19's & now 20's with out any problems.

Not noted here, maybe stock 18" will rub, I never had mine back on the car after installing the spindles.

I run 18x11 Forgelines and I had to do some grinding, as well as some of my friends had to also.