- C6 - Official A6 (Auto) Thread - Temps / Shifting / ETC
Hey guys,
I've tried looking for threads to research info about specifically C6 A6 cars, but not much luck. Recently bought 2008 A6. Although it's a good set-up, I have some notions about it. First, I think Corvettes are generally very sensitive to temps. Temps go up easily and are usually on the higher side, that why a lot of people are always looking for ways to improve its cooling (ex: bigger radiators, tranny coolers, adding water wetter to the radiator, 160* stats, tuning fans, etc..etc). 1) My last C5 was an A4; I had added Transgo Shift kit to it, which made it shift firmer and also added a B&M Tranny cooler to maintain lower temps by 10* or so. My 2008 A6 tranny can run 210* on a decently warm day (73* outside) on the freeway. What are you doing to keep the A6 Temps down? 2) Are you using the "D" (drive) or "S" (sport) shift for your normal driving? I don't feel much (if any) in the 2 modes. What differences you've observed? 3) How often do you use paddle shifting? What are your temps/experiences with it? 4) Any Tranny mods, like a tranny cooler, shift kit, etc? Please feel free to add any relevant info about your A6. Thanks :cheers: |
I have a 2012. This, I believe is the year when gm firmed up the shifts in the “S” mode. I get a very nice, loud, bark when going from first to second. |
I realize not too many people have A6 (autos). But if you do, there's no shame in that... :rofl:
Come onboard and share your experiences/service done/mods/Etc..etc. :lurk: |
Originally Posted by Vette_Fan
(Post 1597598927)
I realize not too many people have A6 (autos). But if you do, there's no shame in that... :rofl:
Come onboard and share your experiences/service done/mods/Etc..etc. :lurk: In Sport mode, it's supposed to shift slightly firmer and at about 200 rpm's higher at WOT. I rarely use the paddles; response time is painfully slow. Although, they may be useful if you road race the car. |
A6
I have a 2010 GS A6, Stock the shifts in D or S where slow, unpredictable and soft. There a "some" tuners that can fine tune the A6, there are some that can mess it up.
Part of a good tune is working on the torque control and that is what will wake up the A6 and the car's performance in general. I do have a Dewits, a 180deg stat, and a tune that turns the fans on sooner (just the stat is a waste of money) After having Cunningham do his magic the paddle shifts are way more predictable. Before you pushed them and waited for it to shift. The shift kit is now days a laptop and the knowledge to make the right changes. We have a nice drive out in So Cal that is Angeles Crest Hwy and the car never gets past 195 on the drive. Trans stays at the same 195, engine oil around 220 (I do have the oil cooler ports on the radiator but have not connected them yet) Find a good tuner and ask around the A6 guys about his work. |
I think the only time you need to run better fans, radiatior, external coolers, wetter is when you add a supercharger. I have a cam, headers, Yank SS3200 stall and a B&M cooler for the trans. The trans temp never goes above 176 on 85-90 deg days. Bypass the internal cooler if you have one. Oil runs around 220 w/o a cooler. want to say coolant around 200. I use the paddles to downshift while off the gas before I get on it. My trans tune allows the car to shift on its own while in ‘S’ or I can upshift with the paddles. The A6 does not like hard downshifting like running in 5th, hammering it and making the trans downshift on power. |
Hardest thing on any trans is kicking down a bunch of gears under full throttle |
I have a 2012 Centennial Edition Grand Sport (A6). Mods: I recently had an A&A supercharger and 3" upgraded radiator (A&A radiator) installed and a tune done by A&A Corvettes. Extremely happy with the 557hp/497tq results. I also have a Borla Sport axle back exhaust as well which is a great exhaust (and sound).
My question is.....what is the acceptable range of temperature for the fluids (oil, trans, etc.)? and what range of temperature is the "danger/damage" zone? Thanks! |
Originally Posted by Vette_Fan
(Post 1597598927)
I realize not too many people have A6 (autos). But if you do, there's no shame in that... :rofl:
Come onboard and share your experiences/service done/mods/Etc..etc. :lurk: |
Originally Posted by SouthBaySurfer
(Post 1597599079)
There were more A6 equipped C6's than manual transmissions, by almost a 2 to 1 margin; I'm not counting Z06's or ZR1's since they were not available with the A6. In Sport mode, it's supposed to shift slightly firmer and at about 200 rpm's higher at WOT. I rarely use the paddles; response time is painfully slow. Although, they may be useful if you road race the car.
Originally Posted by Sphurley
(Post 1597599200)
I have a 2010 GS A6, Stock the shifts in D or S where slow, unpredictable and soft. There a "some" tuners that can fine tune the A6, there are some that can mess it up. Part of a good tune is working on the torque control and that is what will wake up the A6 and the car's performance in general.
I do have a Dewits, a 180deg stat, and a tune that turns the fans on sooner (just the stat is a waste of money) After having Cunningham do his magic the paddle shifts are way more predictable. Before you pushed them and waited for it to shift. The shift kit is now days a laptop and the knowledge to make the right changes. We have a nice drive out in So Cal that is Angeles Crest Hwy and the car never gets past 195 on the drive. Trans stays at the same 195, engine oil around 220 (I do have the oil cooler ports on the radiator but have not connected them yet) Find a good tuner and ask around the A6 guys about his work. - The Transgo Shift kit I was referring to (had it on my C5), isn't just to improve the shifts, but it allows better fluid flow & firmer shifts.
Originally Posted by Curt D
(Post 1597599526)
I think the only time you need to run better fans, radiatior, external coolers, wetter is when you add a supercharger.
I have a cam, headers, Yank SS3200 stall and a B&M cooler for the trans. The trans temp never goes above 176 on 85-90 deg days. Bypass the internal cooler if you have one. Oil runs around 220 w/o a cooler. want to say coolant around 200. I use the paddles to downshift while off the gas before I get on it. My trans tune allows the car to shift on its own while in ‘S’ or I can upshift with the paddles. The A6 does not like hard downshifting like running in 5th, hammering it and making the trans downshift on power. - 176* is great! What model B&M tranny cooler are you using. And is that the main reason for your 176 temps? - "S" mode shifts like an auto "D", so yeah, it does shift on it's own. And if you slow down a lot or stop, it will downshift for you, even if you were paddle shifting. For upshifting, you'd have to manually do it, if you were using paddles. Isn't that how All A6's work?
Originally Posted by farmington
(Post 1597600556)
Hardest thing on any trans is kicking down a bunch of gears under full throttle
Originally Posted by Iceman007
(Post 1597604767)
It's been in the upper 80s lower 90s here and haven't noticed it running too hot yet but I know my convertible would.
|
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6254931e8.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...47a570ae6.jpeg - 176* is great! What model B&M tranny cooler are you using. And is that the main reason for your 176 temps? - "S" mode shifts like an auto "D", so yeah, it does shift on it's own. And if you slow down a lot or stop, it will downshift for you, even if you were paddle shifting. For upshifting, you'd have to manually do it, if you were using paddles. Isn't that how All A6's work? ?[/QUOTE] Cooler is the reason for lower temps. I believe I have the B&M 70266 As for the trans tune. I can drive around using paddles as designed but the difference is that if I choose to stomp on it (in any gear) it will automatically upshift at the programmed rpm without paddle intervention. I do not have to be in drive for this to happen. This is so you can manually downshift to race but let the trans shift automatically for more consistent and faster up shifts. |
06 A6. I had my transmission tuned by Top Flight Corvette in San Diego while getting some other mods tuned in. That certainly corrected the paddle delay and firmed up the shifting in Sport or "S". In Drive the shifts were slightly firmer, but very reasonable. Sport definitely shifts how it should have from the beginning!
However, the main shifting difference I noticed was checking your motor and trans mounts! I drive mine a lot (over 160,000 now!) And noticed my shifts were getting clunky. I track my car and drive it daily, so I assumed that I just needed a rebuild soon and dealt with it. However, one day I was changing my AC compressor and noticed my engine mounts were shot (OEM fluid ones), I switched them out and my shifts were night and day smoother. Decided to do the rest of the mounts well. Be sure to check those if you feel your transmission or drivetrain is clunking or shifting hard! In my opinion, unless you're going for some crazy power, a good tune by a skilled tuner is really the only mod you need for it :flag: |
[/QUOTE] [/QUOTE]Cooler is the reason for lower temps. I believe I have the B&M 70266 As for the trans tune. I can drive around using paddles as designed but the difference is that if I choose to stomp on it (in any gear) it will automatically upshift at the programmed rpm without paddle intervention. I do not have to be in drive for this to happen. This is so you can manually downshift to race but let the trans shift automatically for more consistent and faster up shifts. :thumbs: 1) I looked up the B&M 70266. Seems like it's a 20,000 BTU cooler. Not sure if it comes with an installation kit... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b...xoCmFoQAvD_BwE 2) In my C5 I had the B&M 70268 - 14,000 BTU cooler : this kept the temps around 180-199 (never saw 200). This does come with an installation kit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70268 I like the 1st one, it's only 1/2" wider and .75" thicker, but cooler is 20,000 with plate design. Only thing not sure if it's a complete installation kit. I like the idea of how you described your Sport "S" has been tuned - I would certainly like that. Down the road, I am thinking LT headers and a FULL Tune. For now, just trying to keep the car running COOL. :cool: Thanks. P.S: A6 guys, what else are you doing... :lurk: |
Originally Posted by Vette_Fan
(Post 1597624374)
1) I looked up the B&M 70266. Seems like it's a 20,000 BTU cooler. Not sure if it comes with an installation kit...
I like the 1st one, it's only 1/2" wider and .75" thicker, but cooler is 20,000 with plate design. Only thing not sure if it's a complete installation kit. P.S: A6 guys, what else are you doing... :lurk: You need to make your own installation and base it upon location (air flow) and if you want to bypass the radiator. Be aware that mounting on the condenser (Curt D) may work in Illinois, but it will cause engine heating issues in Arizona. 275* is ideal. Even better if you can stay in the 160-190 range for long term endurance. GM used the engine coolant to ensure proper and quicker warm up for the trans. Because the trans is not a positive pressure flow through the cooling lines, using an aftermarket cooler and bypassing the radiator, will result in much slower warm up. The A6 depends on volume for proper operation, so it's critical that the fluid level is correctly maintained. There is no dipstick and the procedure to check the level is important. Shifting is definitely affected when the fluid is less than 150*, since the volume is less. Too cool is worse than 220+. Increasing the pressure to get the hard seat-of-the-pants feeling, while advantageous in older style transmissions, has limited value in the A6. Using the paddles is most useful to lock up the converter when that is desired for the driving conditions. For most other driving, it's simply a personal preference. Be very careful when tuning. If you don't do your own tuning (most people don't), be sure to tell the tuner exactly how you intend to use the car, not how you want it to feel. |
I’m in Michigan and not planning on any road racing, so I am holding off on a cooler till (if and) when I do a converter. Loved the Yank SS 3600 I had in my Z28. |
Using Paddles and back to auto mode
Hello
I have a question about using the paddles with the A6. My C6 is from 2006 with a A6 transmission. Sometimes when i use the paddles to shift (e.g overtaking), i would like to go back automatic mode after that. In my other car, i can just hold the up-paddle for a few seconds and it goes back to autmatic shifting. Is there a similar function in my Corvette? The only way i found until now is to go from S- to D- and back to S-Mode. Thanks in advance for your help Greetings from sunny Switzerland |
Here is my auto trans question, under full throttle my engine will hit the rev limiter before shifting from 1st to 2nd unless I back peddle slightly. does not matter if trans is in D or S or if traction control is on or off. Is this normal? Thanks
|
Originally Posted by HOXXOH
(Post 1597628825)
In the item description: Notes:This racing model doesn't include installation components.
You need to make your own installation and base it upon location (air flow) and if you want to bypass the radiator. Be aware that mounting on the condenser (Curt D) may work in Illinois, but it will cause engine heating issues in Arizona. 275* is ideal. Even better if you can stay in the 160-190 range for long term endurance. GM used the engine coolant to ensure proper and quicker warm up for the trans. Because the trans is not a positive pressure flow through the cooling lines, using an aftermarket cooler and bypassing the radiator, will result in much slower warm up. The A6 depends on volume for proper operation, so it's critical that the fluid level is correctly maintained. There is no dipstick and the procedure to check the level is important. Shifting is definitely affected when the fluid is less than 150*, since the volume is less. Too cool is worse than 220+. Increasing the pressure to get the hard seat-of-the-pants feeling, while advantageous in older style transmissions, has limited value in the A6. Using the paddles is most useful to lock up the converter when that is desired for the driving conditions. For most other driving, it's simply a personal preference. Be very careful when tuning. If you don't do your own tuning (most people don't), be sure to tell the tuner exactly how you intend to use the car, not how you want it to feel. If I were to use THIS cooler, I wouldn't bypass anything. I would keep the OEM setup exactly as it is, and add this in series with the tranny - wouldn't that work better? :lurk: Thanks! :cheers: |
To cockroach. No, not normal. Has car been tuned? Or has aftermarket converter? |
Originally Posted by SwissC6
(Post 1597632103)
Hello
I have a question about using the paddles with the A6. My C6 is from 2006 with a A6 transmission. Sometimes when i use the paddles to shift (e.g overtaking), i would like to go back automatic mode after that. In my other car, i can just hold the up-paddle for a few seconds and it goes back to autmatic shifting. Is there a similar function in my Corvette? The only way i found until now is to go from S- to D- and back to S-Mode. Thanks in advance for your help Greetings from sunny Switzerland |
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