75 craigslist find advice
 

He should be able to tell you if the a/c works right now. Not last fall.

I wouldn't worry about the parts he replaced but more the quality of the work done. With major work done, you hope wiring harnesses are all neatly fastened back where they should be, no splices and errand grounds and same as bodywork and paint. Need to really look the car and workmanship over in person.

Hey Ryan,
I usually steer clear of Corvettes with any body alterations. But that's just a personal preference thing. Remember, at some point you'll want to sell or upgrade and, with a car like Corvette, where originality seems to be a pretty important factor, modified cars sometimes have a little bit more limited market. Others here love the modified cars.
This one has a completely different interior and dash from a later car as well. Which begs the question, Just how bad was this car after sitting for 26 years?
1975 is a great looking year. You can find a real nice example for the same, or even less money, that doesn't have the sketchy history. It's your hard earned cash that you're going to part with. Make sure you get the best car you can find for the money. :thumbs:
I'd keep looking.
You're doing the right thing by posting them and asking here brother. Keep doing that, follow the great advice here and you'll get the right Corvette.
Greg

The only way to determine if it's a car to stay away from is to come and look at it. All these body and interior changes were done back in the 80"s before I acquired it. When this was first posted it was in the early spring and not warm enough to check the air. It is now summer and it is working. All the mechanical work was done by me and I've been twisting wrenches pretty much all my life from working on my semi trucks to working on fixing up collector cars. You're right Greg you can find a car for equal or less money but it won't have had all the major component went through like this one has. It all depends on what the buyer is looking for, a collector car or a driver that can go to shows with. I stated in my ad that this car will never be worth lots amount of money but is a very nice car that you can feel good about driving down the street. If you're interested in the car Ryan just come and look at the car and you'll see that it is a nice car. And by the way my birdcage is solid. The 26 years it set in a shed it was on a cement floor with roof. Larry

Before you look at another, read the 10 rules before buying thread at the top of this section. Then go look at some ratty ones near you that you wouldnt buy on a bet. And go look at some you cant afford near you. Now you are in a better position to judge the quality of any you actually consider. Look on ebay at completed listings. Gives an idea of what people are payjng, or at least auctions which closed with a bid the seller would accept.

Is it even a '75 anymore

Well, I have a slightly different prospective. This car look like a fun car to own if you do not care about originality and those types of things. A 1975 is not particularly a collector car anyway, so I would not worry about the mods as long as you like the ones that would be costly to change.

The price may be a bit on the high side, but it is worth what the buyer is willing to pay.

I'm warming up to the look of the 80 front end, and the 80 rear is better than anything that isn't chrome. Fiberglass floorboards would be nice. If the price is right and you like the look, you don't have to feel bad about customizing this one.

Thoughts I DON'T find myself having while driving my 1980:
"I wish this car were heavier"
"There is too much visibility with this big rear window"
"It is way to easy to get packages and T-Tops into the rear area under this big window"
"I should have bought a red car instead. Then the police would notice me!"

I'm impressed that a PO replaced not just the front clip, but the entire interior. I didn't even know you could do that. There should be room for negotiation on price, but it looks like a fun, clean car, and fairly unique by C3 standards. The 4-speed is a big win.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE take the time to look under the rear bumper and ALL the visible wiring you can see. Look for half assed splice jobs, electrical tape, loose wires, hanging wires. Take a close look at the fuel tank and see how its properly attached. See if there is a rear bumper under the skin. Ask the owner how accurate the speedometer is, given the drivetrain is a 74 and the interior is an 80 (to include speedo). Check to see if all the body mount screws are present. Check the gap between the battery box/storage area and your shocks (to see if the body is centered). Check EVERY light for function, everything with a bulb should be looked at.

My 72 has an 80 body on it and the above were ALL issues I encountered after the sale. I LOVE my car, but its led to A LOT of headaches. There was all sorts of unfinished electrical stuff I had to finish up and my 1972 Muncie 4 speed does not spin the speedo correctly above 55MPH and reads WAY higher than Im going. Ive tried a few different speedo drive gears but cant quite get the ratio right.

Lastly, those side pipes are generic, all purpose fit. You have to get creative to attach them and if you ever need to replace them, retrofitting someone elses work can be a huge guessing game. (Again, I speak from experience with that EXACT exhaust)

Looks like a great car, do your homework. Best of luck!

11K for a no rust, fresh paint with all those replaceables?.. I would jump on that. the body panels will kill any collector values. but 11K for something you don't have to paint? go for it.

I agree. Looks like an OK car. Only way to tell for sure is to go look at it.

I noticed that the interior has been changed to the 77-82 version with the more comfortable seats.
Like it has been stated......go look at it.

AND it is being sold by a Forum member in case no one noticed.....truckerlary
I seriously doubt a member will hide the defects and still want to stay active on the forum.

For the amount of work done, $11,000 is cheap.
Of course, I have not looked under the vehicle but if as described, this is a good deal.

Good luck

Two concerns,
Do you have emissions regulations in your area?
Why did the block have to be bored .060 over?

No we don't have emissions testing. The reason that it was bored 60 over was because the original block that I took to be bored had to be bored because of damaged cylinder walls which I thought would clean up at 60 thousands. I ordered my pistons for such a bore as my machine shop likes to have the pistons before he bores so each piston is matched to an exact cylinder. Long story short the block didn't clean up at 60 thousand so had to find another block. Already had the pistons so bored new block accordingly.

I LIKE tastefully modified C3s and THATs how i would do a 75 if i didn't like the big rear window of the 78-82.

GO
LOOK
AT
IT