Ticking noise on slow-turning left
 

2017 GS. When I turn left like in a parking lot or starting out from my house after backing out of the driveway, I hear a ticking noise. First I thought it was a pebble in my tire tread, but it's not. Doesn't even happen turning right. Any ideas?

This is a very common problem on most high performance sports cars. The fix is very, very simple! It almost always comes from the front brakes..not rear.

Pull the front brake pads out (very simple). Take super thick axle grease and spread a thin layer on the back of your brake pad. If the pad has "anti-squeak" shims, spread grease on both sides of it. The noise comes from the back of the pad rubbing against the caliper pressure point (metal to metal) under very high stress conditions. The rotors "float" so they shift a tiny bit when the brakes are applied. The grease eliminates the "clicking" noise this creates. Yes, the clicking noise as well as squeaks.

Do not be concerned about grease getting on your pads. It doesn't happen. Use a thick grease and thin layer.

A known issue here.Tighten your lug nuts before you get into the brakes.I didn't remove then torque.Simply just tightened.
If not sure of yourself? Use a torque wrench.How many foot lbs?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-turning.html
Couple more threads about it.1 example

It is a known problem. Mine started making the clicking sound as you described, but in both left and right turns at slow speeds. There is a TSB out for that issue, but I did the process myself and so far (just did it yesterday) the noise is gone. There are many threads about this issue and seems like it will be a recurring issue/maintenance procedure. The process is to pull your wheels and use brake cleaner to clean both the hub surface (where the wheel makes contact by the lug nuts) and the inside of the wheel where it makes contacts the wheel hub. When you pull the wheel off, you will notice a buildup of dirt and brave dust, so you just have to clean that gunk off good.

The dealer will do under warranty, but I usually do as much as I can myself to avoid the inconvenience of taking it to the dealer. Since I track my car, I plan to just wipe them down every time I pull wheels to switch between track and street brake pads.

Page 312 of the Owners Manual shows torque to be 100 ft lbs.

Removing the brake pads doesn't sound simple to me, although I've rebuilt engines and changed brake pads in the past on a sedan. But after that, I swore I would not do my brakes again myself. If it's just a matter of retracting the piston and pulling the pads, that's one thing, but my recollection on brake pads is the whole bleeding procedure..

Then you'll be pleasantly surprised at how simple it is to remove and replace the pads on your car! ;)

Hmm, some of the other comments may be your issue BUT it is not mine!

I tried the clean wheel attachment surfaces and "tighten wheel properly solution" several times - no help!

Had that noise when I turned right at full lock when I bought the car home. It made the "ticking" noise once per tire revolution. The brake air ducts are very close to the wheel as is an air deflector. Hard to tell with the wheel jacked up as it drops. Spin all I want and no noise at full right lock with the wheel up in the air!

Looked at the close tolerances of the plastic air ducts and diverters. Trimmed them by sanding, the noise reduced BUT did not stop. Mine never happens on a sharp left turn nor unless I'm at full right lock. It kept on getting quitter!

When I changed oil I removed the left wheel and the issue was clear! There is a wheel balancing weight on the far inside edge of the left front wheel. It now has the top outer edge worn at a bevel angle! I believe it is the plastic air diverter or the brake cooling duct hitting it! Both are no doubt wearing and the sound is now very slight! :lol:

May not be your issue but it could be!

FWIW, brake pads can make a vibration noise on a slow stop. Had that with my 2015 Z51. Solved that with brake pad bedding. However I have installed Carbotech ceramic brake pads on the Grand Sport and use a high temp brake pad lub (NOT axle grease) on the pad backs and sides. Zero noise from the brakes! Frankly if your not touching the brakes don't see how that could cause a ticking noise!

As mentioned, the pads are easier to do on this car than most others, but I seriously doubt that will solve your clicking issue. As others have noted, it will likely be resolved by removing the front wheels, cleaning the wheel's mating surface and then re-torquing the wheels.

That seems to have solved some folks' problem--although it also seems to be temporary. However, the description by Jerry in post #8 makes more sense to me. Either way, it doesn't sound like a serious problem (compared to if something were wrong with the steering gear, for example)...so, just an annoyance.

^^^
Be interesting to see if your click is once per revolution of the wheel and if you also have a wheel weight on the far inside! :yesnod:

^ ^
What's the "far" inside?

^^^

This is a pic. The weight is on the edge of the inside of the wheel. After a year, as the noise became very minor, I noticed the top outer edge of the wheel weight was warn and a bit rough. It was/is obviously scraping on something. Either the plastic brake cooling duct or more likely the plastic brake air deflector you'll see both are close. Hard to see when the wheel is jacked-up as the relationship changes.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...befffabc9f.jpg

glad i found this thread. this sounds exactly like my clicking noise. will try this fix