>>> UPDATE <<<

I've now been driving the ZR1 as a semi-daily-driver for the last ~5 months and ~2500 miles. The car continues to impress. I'm convinced this is the fastest stock analog car you can drive. It runs *almost* even with my 2012 Porsche, but the difference is that I'm driving the Z as opposed to the computer doing a fair amount of the work in the Porsche. There's a noticeable difference in overall drivability. The Z is actually more engaging and fun to work through the gears on a twisty mountain road, but not quite as comfortable, and definitely less capable in the braking category. It’s also not the ‘crowbar to spine’ sensation of punching a hole in space with my hot-rod’d ’65 Stingray… but it’s almost the perfect medium between the two other cars. It’s like a domesticated tiger - it doesn’t try to kill you each time you mash the accelerator, but you still know it views you as a lite snack if you get too complacent.

I've also *finally* fixed ALL of the squawks on the car. I fixed the FX3 actuator that had a broken gear, replaced the gas shocks for the rear hatch, new windshield... DONE! There's literally nothing left (that I know of...) to fix.

That said, I've noticed a few things with the car that have come from driving it a lot. I'm hoping they are normal.

I've noticed that when I roll to a stop with the brake pushed, the revs linger at about 1200-1500 rpms while while the car is slowing, and then go to ~850 when I release the break. This is an improvement from when I first got it on the road and the revs would sometimes stick at ~1500 at idle regardless of what I did. I assume this is a vacuum thing, even though I vacuum tested all the lines while I had the plenum off.

When I first got the car back on the road, and put the car in 'full power' mode (every drive), I couldn't really tell when the secondaries starting firing. The engine was very smooth in its delivery of power. You could feel the difference in power compared to valet mode, but it felt subtle until you got up into the higher rpms. After putting on a couple thousand miles, things have changed. Power is much more immediate when you tickle the 'go' pedal, and there seems to be more of it. I also totally notice when the secondaries fire. I can now definitively say that the secondary magic doesn't start until you reach somewhere between 3000 and 4000 rpms, and then you receive a solid kick in the ars. Is this normal? For all I know, it could be that there’s a lack of power at lower rpm that should be there. Any thoughts would be appreciated as I’ve not driven any other Z in nearly 30 years and don’t know what is ‘normal’.

I tested the car on a couple of long highway drive at a steady 70mph. The car can get ~28-29mpg. Most of my driving is much more… spirited… which means my average mpg is around 12. Is this expected? I swear I lose an LCD tick on the fuel level every time I get on the freeway at full throttle.

Still loving the car

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f4f2d40f8e.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...fea79b3c36.jpg

I believe that the rpm issue you're having isn't truly an issue.... It can be somewhat corrected with Marcs prom re-calibration though. The secondaries kicking in and giving you a jolt sounds about right to me. Car looks great, ZR-1s are really a fun car. :cheers:

Looks great. And major props on getting it road worthy. Any future mods planned?

Agreed, normal. If you don’t have it get the Haibeck chip, you’ll be amazed at the improvement.
H
:cheers:

This is a fun thread to read through! Great work on that ZR1. Makes me want to finish up my C4 even more now(non-ZR1).You're not too far from me I see. Do you drive on Pescadero Creek Rd every now and then? I could swear I've seen a black ZR1 cruising on by a few times, wondering if it was you or some other random black C4, lol. I've always been in the house when it's gone by, and I'm just far enough away from the road that it's hard to make out fine details, but it looked very clean.

That could be me... :-). Great driving roads on that side of the hill.

-Gonzo

:thumbs:

my 91 had an oil leak that made me crazy to find, besides the common exhaust studs leaking oil, i found 2 small bolts holding an oval housing on the lower right side of the engine block. with a series of 1/4 drive extensions and swivels i was able to tighten these bolts. magic no more leaks. no need to replace the seal/gasket its been dry since then. im sure someone will chime in with the same info, and elaborate on this.

Have you ever attended the Cars and Coffee in Danville?