Electric check with no motor
 

Currently the car has no motor or trans – A new complete wiring harness was installed when I got the car, but all of the dash/console components are not plugged in. I am getting everything hooked back up and would like to check to see what is working.

Planning on hooking up a jump box to the battery cables. How should I go about completing the circuit at the starter or anything else I should know.

Thanks,

Mike

Take a bolt and attach the big hot wire from battery to the alternator charge wire and the smaller main hot wire. Then tape it up good so if it touches the frame it won't start arc welding. Engine to frame ground is less important cuz you aren't running anything on the engine that isn't there.

Thanks Derek - Sounds like a plan

Check all your wiring termination points for proper continuity before throwing juice to it. You can find problems with an ohmmeter might cause a dead-short with the wiring if you had power on it. You need to have high confidence that there are no wiring problems before you power it.

I have an old style battery charger that has a 2 amp setting. Those 2 amps are far less than a battery or jumpbox will expose your new wiring too. If you have any issue using less amps lessens the risk of frying something. My charger is from Century and was less than $50 and I use it to test all sorts of wiring.

An ohmmeter uses milliamps and can check proper wiring easily. Two amps can still fry small sized wires. There's no need to run significant current to check wiring integrity...unless that's all you know how to do.

Never been a good wire techy. The 2 amp charger is a good idea. I have am old craftsman charger from my 82 yr old Dad . RIP. I'll keep you posted. Thanks

If you are not a good 'wire techy', why would you consider putting significant current through those lines to test it? That will likely be a rhetorical question, but I'll give it one last try.

Well I'm not stupid, but a little imitated by wiring. I bought a wiring diagram for the car. Sooo thanks for the advice, but I think I'll be ok.

my 2 amp suggestion came from a Painless Harness manual I installed years ago.

Go for it! Hope it goes well.

Been a Bit - Update - Wire by wire slowly but surely I have all the wires tagged except for 2. Down by the drivers side kick panel coming out of the power window/door buzzer harness is 2 wires - Orange with black strip and a pink with black stripe with 2 ends. Not sure where they go?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f2b6d8c80e.jpg

What year is your car. Before powering up use an ohmmeter to make sure you do not have a short.

Scroll down to the power window circuit, it might be those two wires:
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...WRiNTdjNjdkNTQ

Thank you. That schmatic is better than the one I have. More user friendly. I'll be sure to check ohms before power up.

I have one more - plug connections at the automatic shifter connections. Pink/White and Purple/ yellow
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...408cf9b62a.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...68451b26eb.jpg

Are the colors faded?
 

The two large wires (PURPLE and PURPLE/WHITE) are for the neutral safety switch.

The GREEN and PINK are for the reverse lights and show continuity only with the shifter in reverse.

The PINK/WHITE and PINK will make the seat belt warning and seat belt lamp in the dash go on in 1 2 or 3 if the seat belts are not hooked up.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ebe93eec39.png

Thanks again PBelt.

A 2 amp charger can't smoke any wire bigger than what is in a USB cable. Heck, my Samsung charger is 2.1 Amps.

Here is another one - end of the speed-o- cable at the trans. Little black box with wires that have been cut. What is this for and where does it plug in.
Thanks, Mike
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8ce741105e.jpg