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Wanting to lower engine temp.
After driving the car for about an hour or 2 the oil runs around 238 240 and gets up to 145 if I'm giving it hell is there a way to lower the temp??
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That's pretty cool as it is......IF you are talking about 138-140 degrees Fahrenheit. I sure wouldn't want the oil to run any cooler!!!
Mine typically runs about 196 degrees F. , as I recall, when I'm running hard....and I think that's too cold. |
Originally Posted by rocco16
(Post 1597987509)
That's pretty cool as it is......IF you are talking about 138-140 degrees Fahrenheit. I sure wouldn't want it to run any cooler!!!
Mine typically runs about 196 degrees F. , as I recall, when I'm running hard....and I think that's too cold. |
Originally Posted by Cloud92
(Post 1597986873)
After driving the car for about an hour or 2 the oil runs around 138 140 and gets up to 145 if I'm giving it hell is there a way to lower the temp??
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Add external air / oil cooler sealed from engine compartment, under hood temps easily can be over 150 degrees. Using synthetic oil should eliminate need for cooler. The factory oil cooler on the l98 was a water / cooler which would heat or cool oil depending on weather and coolant temp. Oil temperatures of 200 during higher engine speeds (2500-3000) is normal, over 250 would be a worry.
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
(Post 1597987540)
he is talking oil temp
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Sorry I have a 85 350tpi? My bad I definitely meant after running it the oil temp is around 238 240° coolant is usually about 200 210.....
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Originally Posted by Paul Workman
(Post 1597987505)
You didn't mention the MY of you Vette, but if it is a 92-96 LTx, it is designed to run at the temps you are quoting - as part of the emissions strategy (carbon, primarily). However, at WOT on the dragstrip emissions compliance is not the concern as a rule, Besides, the heat generated at WOT will actually burn an abundance of carbon deposits. But, the issue w/ lower operating temps is carbon deposits and fouling and wiping the bores with carbon is like sandpaper between the bore and the rings. (Well, maybe not quite "sandpaper", but you get the drift!)
So, to move it to (say) 170ºF (or less) as many quarter miler gurus do, you'll have to change the thermostat to one that opens in the heat range you desire. AND, you may very likely have to increase the size of the radiator (e.g., a Dewitt Radiator) as the temperature difference (reduction) will often exceed the stock cooling system's capabilities in some (hot w/ AC on) conditions. Before O2 sensors and knock sensors and the computers to monitor them and make air-fuel adjustments, cooler temps were the norm as part of the anti-knock strategy. Now, with O2 and knock sensors the motors can run much leaner and at higher operating temps too. Back in the "old dayz", a V8 with 170-180k miles was considered high-mileage and rebuild was often imminent. Now-a-dayz 250 or even 300k mile motors often still have good compression and oil pressure after living in a 230º environment all their lives. So, from what I've seen and compared, I wouldn't expect a motor with a 170º 'stat' to maintain compression as well as it might have in the stock scenario. (But, what do I know...except what the advantage of the effect old age has on one's ability to view things from the bigger perspective?:D) |
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A 160deg T-stat should fix the issue and bring a slight CHP gain too.
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My experience oil temps are about 20f higher then coolant after its fully warmed up. It runs around 230f but 250-260f oil temp doesn't bother me at all, if it does then run synthetic oil.
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Originally Posted by 65Z01
(Post 1597990764)
A 160deg T-stat should fix the issue and bring a slight CHP gain too.
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if your oil is more than 5-8 degrees greater than your coolant, check your catalytic converter(s) my l98 was sky high 250F oil and the coolant was down at 225F even with kc4 installed, my oil was crazy hot. discovery of plugged cats was cause |
Ok took the Vette out.....pushed it pretty hard. oil temp got up to 250 coolant was around 220
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
(Post 1597991865)
if your oil is more than 5-8 degrees greater than your coolant, check your catalytic converter(s) my l98 was sky high 250F oil and the coolant was down at 225F even with kc4 installed, my oil was crazy hot. discovery of plugged cats was cause |
here is a link to my thread on how i fixed mine. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-tech-performance/4035003-oil-temp-261-coolant-temp-241-no-airdam-the-cause-3.html#post1597493025 |
I've run a 160deg T-stat in each '88 since 2000 and she cruises at ~160deg F unless in heavy traffic in hot weather. Under such conditions coolant temps can climb up into the 170-180 deg. range, with both fans running.
BTW, oil temp runs very close to coolant temp but I do have the optional oil cooler so no surprise for me. |
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First be sure to check your radiator. Remove the plastic covering over the top and look down. Clean out all the debris that has gathered. Next change to a 160 thermostat. The change to a high flow water pump such as the Flow-Kooler pump. This will drop coolant temp and also the oil temps. I used to run about 180-185 on the road with this setup on my 85.
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NO on removing thermostat question. The coolant will actually run thru faster giving it less time to absorb engine heat and less time to get rid of it in the radiator. old time racers ( I am 68) used to put a large washer in to replace the thermos after drilling a large hole in the washer. You need that thermo.
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