Fuel Tank removal on 65 Convertable
 

Try to do something that appears to be very straight forward and it turns into a big pain.

Found rust in my tank so I decided to go ahead and replace it on my 65 convertible. Unbolted the bottom cross beam, got the straps off, disconnected the fuel line from the sending unit. I am now able to rotate the old tank to a certain degree, but it seems to be hitting the exhaust hanger and preventing it from dropping.

The exhaust hangers are so rusty to the point that they are very difficult to unscrew with the mufflers in the way, but the pipes and mufflers are in decent shape.

So my question is....before I go crazy and begin cutting exhaust pipes and mufflers so I can access the hanger bolts better, is it absolute necessary to remove the hangers in order to get the tank out?

Should the filler neck on top of the tank be unscrewed though the gas filler hole or will the tank rotate and drop with it still attached to the tank? I'm wondering if it's a factor by rubbing against the fiberglass as I attempt to rotate and slide the tank down, making his even more difficult.

Any advice or insight will be appreciated.

This probably won't help but this is how I remove the tank on all my restorations. This is a 65 BB convertible. Beware of "project creep".
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1c1436374f.jpg

Found a bunch of old posts with great information. I'm late to the party being that my car was garaged for 25 years.

Filler neck does not need to come off on a convertible, only on the coupe. One of the mufflers does need to be at least moved out of the way, although some people claim they've been able to remove the tank without muffler interference. Looks like I'll need to take rusted u bolts off, ouch.

Almost wish I was at that stage. I learned fuel systems, very much like brakes do not stand the test of time. Meaning you pretty much have to replace every component after long term storage unless you keep the vehicle in an environmentally controlled environment.

Yes scope creep seems to happen with everything you touch, I use it as an opportunity to address everything around the thing I'm working on. Call it giving the vehicle a little tender loving care.

Looks like you have your work cut out for you there, good luck!

The mufflers installed make this job hard, I would remove one them (RH side) if possible.

Mr. D., any difference in ease of removing the tank with the RIGHT (Passenger) side muffler or the LEFT (Driver) side removed?

I'm leaning towards the driver's side so I can re-install the power antenna that someone removed some 40 years ago.

Here's a link to where I'm at in the restoration. I'm on the home stretch. Cut & buff then assemble all new parts. 90% of the work is in the rear view mirror.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ck-update.html

Wow you work fast, beautiful!

This is one procedure where having side pipes is a plus. Nothings in the way when it comes to removing a fuel tank.

I just did this project on a 65 Roadster. I pulled the filler neck first, it has to come out sometime. I got the tank out by removing one muffler and loosening the other one and pulling it aside. Going back in, you don't have gravity on your side, I ended up pulling the other muffler also to get it back in. I would recommend pulling both the mufflers right away.

That sucks.

Replaced my tank awhile back, with help from Forum members. '64 Coupe, removed exhaust extensions, carefully remove rear valance, and placed it away from work area, its flimsy don't need any damage. Loosen both exhaust hangers, and push mufflers to the inside of fenders, the tank will come out this way. My mufflers were welded at all seams, so this was going to be more of a pain in the butt. This procedure work for me....................good luck