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1987 egr tube help
Hey corvette vans. Iv got a 87 c4 with a small problem. The egr exhaust tube going over the passenger valve cover is leaking and making a tapping noise, smoke test proved it. Iv paid a mechanic to tighten the crimp ring but they said it’s wallered out and as tight as it can get and it’s replacement is discontinued. I want to buy a delete plate for it because it’s not only making a bad noise but it’s in the way of taking my valve cover coming on and off. If I do this, I’m not sure what to do with the exhaust end of the tube. Can I just buy regular shorty headers for a small block or should I just have it plug welded? I’d like to put on regular shorty headers without the egr tube hole and extra little tubes running along the top of headers, but is it that easy ? |
Disabling EGR could lead to spark knock. Adjusting timing back would compensate. You could look for used replacement corvette salvage. eBay, f body salvage, etc. EGR delete kits are available with plates and a plug for intake.
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Originally Posted by Kevova
(Post 1598226357)
Disabling EGR could lead to spark knock. Adjusting timing back would compensate. You could look for used replacement corvette salvage. eBay, f body salvage, etc. EGR delete kits are available with plates and a plug for intake.
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Originally Posted by Kevova
(Post 1598226357)
Disabling EGR could lead to spark knock. Adjusting timing back would compensate. You could look for used replacement corvette salvage. eBay, f body salvage, etc. EGR delete kits are available with plates and a plug for intake.
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Post pictures of what you have. There are different types of block offs.
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Once plate is installed on exhaust manifold no exhaust will go to intake. Plug/ plate just covers hole. Disconnect or remove EGR valve to prevent possible vacuum leak if valve opens. ECM will still command EGR to come on, blocking hose to valve MAY prevent code since solenoid will still function. EGR also uses a temp sensor you may need a resistor to get trick ECM to prevent code.
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I've had my '87 blocked for a couple years now, no codes and no knock. Timing is on spec at 6 degrees.
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This is the egr tube I just bought. It’s exactly like the one I have that’s leaking. Maybe this new one will be less wallered out. My question is, how do I block off the manifold side of the tube because there is no flange with bolts. It’s just a hole with a crimp ring? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a1e72d7f0f.png |
Originally Posted by nmay
(Post 1598225344)
Hey corvette vans. Iv got a 87 c4 with a small problem. The egr exhaust tube going over the passenger valve cover is leaking and making a tapping noise, smoke test proved it. Iv paid a mechanic to tighten the crimp ring but they said it’s wallered out and as tight as it can get and it’s replacement is discontinued. I want to buy a delete plate for it because it’s not only making a bad noise but it’s in the way of taking my valve cover coming on and off. If I do this, I’m not sure what to do with the exhaust end of the tube. Can I just buy regular shorty headers for a small block or should I just have it plug welded? I’d like to put on regular shorty headers without the egr tube hole and extra little tubes running along the top of headers, but is it that easy ? |
It should have a flange on both sides for an '87.
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I would strongly suggest that you keep the EGR and keep it in a functioning mode. I have a 1988 and my car failed Emissions testing due to high NOX, My EGR had failed and I would have never known except for the less smooth idle and FAILED Emissions test.
You can either replace all the components and make it work or you can make the change to disable it and have to update the current E-Prom. I chose to fix mine and that was quite a task. I ended up changing out the EGR valve, the EGR Vacuum Solenoid, fuel pressure regulator, fuel injectors, cold start injector and a lot of gaskets. My vacuum solenoid was a source of constant vacuum loss as it failed in that mode. That is probably what led the rest of the parts to fail. I took off most of the intake system to get in there but it was worth it. Now the car looks better as I painted the parts while I had it apart and the EGR is again working like they designed it too. Somebody who is creative can find a way to re-attach the EGR tube for you, try a exhaust shop where they weld exhaust parts, maybe they can braze it on or use silver solder to make a permanent connection. If what kael says is correct then it should not be a big deal to replace the tube. The picture above from EBAY shows the EGR tube for the 1988 and up, it is like the one I have on my car, only one flange. Here is a picture from EBAY showing the 1987 type that our friend kael was telling you about. Good Luck and may this help you a bit! https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/eh4AA...Ev/s-l1600.jpg |
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