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Got my beater with a heater. Not off to a good start
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...592dfc2ba.jpeg 2000 Dodge Dakota Ext cab 4x4 185k Miles 3.9 V6 $1,000. Runs good 4x4 runs strong. Given its history I still rolled the dice and grabbed it. 2nd owner. Let it sit for 3 days at my job until my day off. And since it cranked and wouldn’t start unlike it did when I purchased it. I ran all my tests and because the guy used it only for work keeping the fuel tank low. The fuel pump burned out. Drop the tank or take the bed off are the suggested options for this paticukar job. Being that it’s primary function is to and from work to keep the vette parked for the winter. It’ll be getting the cutting wheel acess door treatment to replace the pump. Off to a bad start with this toilet. |
1st world problems... |
:rofl:
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Watch those curbs backing up...:eek:
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Really doesn't have anything to do with a C5. Moved to Other Cars.
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Can't you just lift off the bed?
Unbolt bed and get 3 more people to help you lift it to gain access to top of tank. Nobody to help you lift? Get a engine hoist and some straps onto each corner, lift up, move bed out of way a few feet for access. At least on Chevy GMC trucks the fuel tank is under the bed. |
It sucks to have car troubles regardless of make/model/year......... but when you buy something for $1,000 you can't really get upset nor deny the fact that you're going to be dealing with these kinds of issues. I hope it's an easy repair and you have many trouble free miles afterwards. Good Luck!!!!!!
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What's up with those C5 tail lights? Getting awfully close to C7 fugly there.........
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After a day without rain it fired right up. Only thing most likely to water exposure is the crank sensor on the bell housing. responsible for creating and delivering spark. Time to fab a shield. Really could be a lot of things but it’s running |
Originally Posted by C5 for life
(Post 1598403286)
After a day without rain it fired right up. Only thing most likely to water exposure is the crank sensor on the bell housing. responsible for creating and delivering spark. Time to fab a shield. Really could be a lot of things but it’s running |
FWIW, dropping the tank on one of those is not too bad. I just did my neighbors 03 (?) 4.7 4WD. He also has a late 90s 3.9 with close to 400k on it, that damn thing will not die.
I would take a close look at all the hard brake lines on your truck, I have replaced all of them on my neighbors already due to rust. |
Originally Posted by Ncognito
(Post 1598404801)
Coils/distributors come to mind when a vehicle has issues starting after a rain. Epoxy cracks in the coils causing issues with lots of moisture in the air. Same thing with distributor caps. Have to agree though, 1k-2k vehicles are typically very money hungry lol. Buy it expecting to sink some money in it to get it right.
Very stand up guy I bought it from wanted to give me my money back without me even asking. I told him I knew what I was buying I’ll figure it out. 20 minutes later went to do my tests on it and she fired right up 😎 |
Originally Posted by C5 for life
(Post 1598399430)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...592dfc2ba.jpeg 2000 Dodge Dakota Ext cab 4x4 185k Miles 3.9 V6 $1,000. Runs good 4x4 runs strong. Given its history I still rolled the dice and grabbed it. 2nd owner. Let it sit for 3 days at my job until my day off. And since it cranked and wouldn’t start unlike it did when I purchased it. I ran all my tests and because the guy used it only for work keeping the fuel tank low. The fuel pump burned out. Drop the tank or take the bed off are the suggested options for this paticukar job. Being that it’s primary function is to and from work to keep the vette parked for the winter. It’ll be getting the cutting wheel acess door treatment to replace the pump. Off to a bad start with this toilet. All that could be fixed by learning how to park....:lol: |
Originally Posted by C5 for life
(Post 1598406480)
After all the research I’ve done the culprit is typically the distributer and wires. When time permits it I’ll give it the spray bottle test. Spraying water in a specific location, that results in a stalling or bogging down of the engine response. potentially indicating that’s where moisture is getting in and preventing the engine from running. But she’s running and I guess this is what you deal with when you got champagne taste with a beer wallet. If you live where winter can kill you or your corvette. Very stand up guy I bought it from wanted to give me my money back without me even asking. I told him I knew what I was buying I’ll figure it out. 20 minutes later went to do my tests on it and she fired right up 😎 |
I had a 3.9 in my van before I got tired of the low power of the motor, so I put a 360 in :)
The 3.9 has a few known issues and there are solutions for all of them. The plugs, wires, cap and rotor should be replaced every year. The Magnum series of motors has several locations for spark arcing. Basically the fix is to put conduit on all the wires and run them using the locations provided by the TSB Dodge put out. This is easily found online. Also to really fix the issue, just get the Accel Ceramic boot wire and you wont have an issue again. While you are doing this job, you might as well change the coil too. It cost 10 bucks and Herko on eBay makes a good one I have had lots of luck with. The CPS is notorious. It fails a lot. I would only use the OEM Dodge one. Other do work, but they just dont last as long. The issue you are having sounds like the CPS and it will totally fail very soon. It will not start without the CPS being fully operational too. Most Magnum owners change it out every 2-3 years for peace of mind. Dropping the tank on my van was easy I would suspect the same for your Dak. Two straps, four filer neck screws and two vent line screws and down she comes :) You will need to either use a strap wrench or pull the same trick that you use to get a fan nut off to get the huge nut off that holds the fuel pump in the tank. It is on there tight. I believe you can get a tool for it too. PM me if you have more questions. I basically rebuilt my van myself :) BTW Nice truck - with a little TLC they just keep running and running :cheers: |
I drive my corvettes as daily drivers amd we get 127 inches of snow each winter... your beaters cool and its only a grand...im sure it ll be great... i just have no patience for old car issues.... im sure you wont have too many issues and itll be a good way to go. |
Originally Posted by JerriVette
(Post 1598484669)
I drive my corvettes as daily drivers amd we get 127 inches of snow each winter... your beaters cool and its only a grand...im sure it ll be great... i just have no patience for old car issues.... im sure you wont have too many issues and itll be a good way to go. |
Originally Posted by Shakeydeal
(Post 1598402993)
What's up with those C5 tail lights? Getting awfully close to C7 fugly there.........
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Originally Posted by jd
(Post 1598484008)
I had a 3.9 in my van before I got tired of the low power of the motor, so I put a 360 in :)
The 3.9 has a few known issues and there are solutions for all of them. The plugs, wires, cap and rotor should be replaced every year. The Magnum series of motors has several locations for spark arcing. Basically the fix is to put conduit on all the wires and run them using the locations provided by the TSB Dodge put out. This is easily found online. Also to really fix the issue, just get the Accel Ceramic boot wire and you wont have an issue again. While you are doing this job, you might as well change the coil too. It cost 10 bucks and Herko on eBay makes a good one I have had lots of luck with. The CPS is notorious. It fails a lot. I would only use the OEM Dodge one. Other do work, but they just dont last as long. The issue you are having sounds like the CPS and it will totally fail very soon. It will not start without the CPS being fully operational too. Most Magnum owners change it out every 2-3 years for peace of mind. Dropping the tank on my van was easy I would suspect the same for your Dak. Two straps, four filer neck screws and two vent line screws and down she comes :) You will need to either use a strap wrench or pull the same trick that you use to get a fan nut off to get the huge nut off that holds the fuel pump in the tank. It is on there tight. I believe you can get a tool for it too. PM me if you have more questions. I basically rebuilt my van myself :) BTW Nice truck - with a little TLC they just keep running and running :cheers: |
Originally Posted by BlackHellcat
(Post 1598541727)
No slow plow issues or traction even on snows since the rears are so wide? Only reason I didn't go with another Vette over Hellcat was b/c winter.
I put snow tires on my corvette and drive it year round. I think we get about 127 inches of snow. i think i had three days of staying home last year tops.. 18 s up front, 19 s out back. I bought the snow tires mounted on oem rims in stock tires. I believe they are pirelli sotomoto or something like that. All four mounted and balanced on oem rims were $700 all in. todays summer radials have a compound make summer tires unusable in temperatures below 40 degrees. most guys dont use there corvettes in the winter but i buy my cars to be used... ive put 128k miles on since new. This is my third new corvette. By the way ls motors love cold air...and I enjoy my corvettes to the fulliest and they look mint. i wash and spray wax weekly in the winter amd the summer months... i garage my corvette overnight every night. just been a great car... good luck with your winter beater. Thats a good way to go as well. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...02d2db47c.jpeg |
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