No Reverse - 1966 Muncie 4-speed
 

All,
Once again, I am venturing into an area with absolutely no experience. Recent purchase with good solid shift pattern, no rattles, no noises in test drive(s). Even had reverse lights, so, that was working. Reverse always seemed a little finnicky but the seller could seem to get into reverse with no problem. As time went on, I conquered it as well. Lo and behold, on last attempt to drive it, I cannot get the dang thing to go into the reverse slot. 1st-4th, no problem.

Pretty sure I've read every applicable post One indicated, unscrewing chrome ball a couple of twists, nope. Tried different clutch depths, nope. Completely removed chrome ball and squirted some WD-40 down the shaft, nope. By now, I've had the ball off several times & the pieces all *seem* to be there except I've seen some rebuild kits with 2 plastic bushings and I only have one. Rod is still in place & not bent. Spring seems firm.

So, do I buy the shifter rebuild kit and try that? I'm assuming that's not as easy has removing the old pieces and putting the new pieces down the shaft? From research, can't rebuild it from the top, have to remove the whole shifter from the bottom?

I'd like to stay stock, as it's a survivor type car. I'd also prefer the easiest way to get back on the road. (read: I'm lazy, and, don't have much shop tools for lifting/supporting the car UP). Thoughts, suggestion, and favorite suppliers for the rebuild kit (if that's the conclusion)? Pretty sure I can get by with the "minor" rebuild kit. Still not even 100% sure how this setup works, but, jeez, when it doesn't..... Anyway, now I understand why many have been switched over to Hurst over the years!

TIA,
PO

The first thing I would do is jack the car up grab the reverse rod and manually put it in reverse. If that works at least you know its not a tranny problem. After that its really pretty simple because its either the reverse lockout or the rod is bent/out of adjustment.

Yeah, pull the T handle out and see if the lock out rod comes with it, if so try reverse with the handle out. Those lock out rod ends can break off and stay in the slot, and on some versions the set screw at the top of the shaft can slip and the lockout won't pull up enough to shift to reverse. Pulling the handle out will tell you.

Here's the bottom end of the lockout rod that keeps it from going into reverse.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...fd9e71bbde.jpg

Define "finnicky".

It would save a lot of speculation if the OP would say if the shifter will even go in the reverse gate. That would narrow the possiblities greatly. If he has, I missed it.

No, MikeM, will not go into reverse gate at all....now. Used to.

I'll try some of the other things asap, as well.

"finnicky" (to me) means, it would get there but rarely on the first try (reverse gate).

Thanks guys!

8417009]No, MikeM, will not go into reverse gate at all....now. Used to.

/QUOTE]

Then, your interlock pin is not clearing the blocker pin because of adjustment or the end is broken off.

Or, your shift linkage needs adjusting.

Try this. Start the car in neutral, depress the clutch and run the shifter from first to second (a couple of times) and then pull the reverse lock-out handle up and attempt to shift into reverse.

Couple of Pics
 

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d6adefd763.jpg
Shift lever pieces
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...046234f7ee.jpg
Another pic with rod pulled out a bit. Not sure if this is typical length, or not. Not sure what happened to the one bushing I had? Not sure I ever had a set screw either. If so, never saw it.

I'll try you guys' suggestions (the quick, easy ones) tomorrow or Saturday. Jacking it up & getting it safe as a one man operation will take a bit longer. Thanks again for all your help!.

So there wasn't a set screw securing the rod to the trigger piece? How did the trigger piece ever manage to raise the rod up to clear the path over to the reverse gate?

You don't need to jack the car up. you need to try putting the car in reverse with that rod pulled out. If it works get a set screw and adjust the rod so it clears the reverse lever. That hole you can see at the top should have a set screw that locks that rod in the up position enough to clear. I think you'll find this is a short and sweet repair if you don't overcomplicate it.

I guess that little bend at the top was the substitute for the set screw. Probably work at first but got out of adjustment range over the years.

All the early versions had the bend at the top and also had the set screw. I assume it's so if the screw came out or came loose you could still pull the lock rod out with the t handle

The original Muncie shifter used a cable/pin reverse lock out. It was replaced in Service with a rod/pin in April, '68. The service kit instructions were to discard the set screw when using the replacement "rod" and flatten the end of it where it protrudes through the "T" handle. If you have a solid rod, this is the procedure.

If you have the cable/pin, bend the tip of it protruding through the "T" handle and use the set screw.

I can't see your picture so I don't know which one you have.

Previous Owner, if you look at the technical bulletin I posted all of this you may have this you may have that will be avoided. According to your picture you have the earlier version and the set screw is missing. if you're not getting it from that send me a PM with your phone number and I'll call you. It's a very simple lockout system and doesn't need a lot of conversation.

I am on another computer and can see what you posted now. Exactly what I was talking about. But, if the OP has the cable pulled out of the handle, it should go freely into reverse. If it doesn't, it's likely a shifter adjustment. If it does, it's likely the cable adjustment and his bend has come unbent a little and let the cable migrate toward the blocker pin, keeping him out of reverse.

Probably, but again, the little bend is not what adjusts it. It's the set screw that tightens against the rod at the top