C-2 Purchase Input
 

A friend is looking to buy a '65-'67 Convert, small block, 4-speed. He has never owned a Corvette but has owned some classics and exotics (currently has Ford GT-50). He saw this one, but price seems high

https://www.mershons.com/vehicle-det...1c6478936e5a75

He wants a car to get in and drive and needs to be sharp looking, but not a NCRS total frame of. What would be a price range and what do you think of the one he is looking at and the asking price

seems like a decent car, not a great price but its a dealer.

not one "serious" picture, all fluff. Lot of money

The price might be a bit high BUT without an onsite inspection, everything is speculation. BTW, these cars were never gel-coated.

:iagree: 100% w/this. But, as someone else pointed out, its at a dealer, so, you've got the built in overpricing so they can collect a decent profit. If your friend was willing to take his time and look around on various sites, and spread the word at his local car cruises, he would do better on the price. :thumbs:

Hire provette67 to do an inspection.

This past May I drove 8 hours to Merchon's in Ohio to look at a 66 blue vert. From the description and several discussions with the salesman, a through inspection, and negotiations, I was sure I was going to buy it. When I got there it was awful. The touch-up on the nose looked like it was done with a toilet brush. The top was torn, lights did not work, the door panel was hanging off the door, windshield scratched, interior needed replacement, shifter very loose and...the car would not start. I don't think I was there 15 minutes. A very disappointing trip.

That's all the money + dealers markup AND margin for that car, even if it is all 4.0000.

For 75 large a pro inspection (as previously mentioned) is money well spent (and demanded).

You'll never flip it if you buy it for >65, but if your buyer has deep pockets, it may not matter.

Price range will be determined by a few things. Year, horsepower, originality, options,color and condition. Though close all things being equal a '67 brings slightly more than '65&'66. Horsepower is a bigger adder. Original motor cars bring more money. Cars with more options will also bring more money. Cars with original options bring a little more than cars where the options are added. Depending on the car it can range from not too much to much more. While a car with power steering may not be worth that much more than the same car without. The car with the power steering will sell faster than the one without. The same with power brakes,side exhaust and aluminum wheels. The option of A/C is a bigger adder. The percentage of cars that came from the factory with a/c was small. Unlike adding power brakes,steering, side exhaust,etc adding an original a/c setup to a non a/c car is expensive. First finding a complete original setup is hard. When you do find it the work needed to install it is difficult. That is why not many a/c cars are faked. But we all like a/c. The vintage a/c works better than stock and is easier to install. Thus there are many cars that have added vintage a/c. It adds value but not nearly as much a factory a/c. Color is another value adder. I like every mid year factory color. But like most people I have favorite colors and color combinations. The cars with the more popular colors bring more money. Cars in the color they left the factory originally in bring more. The cars that came from the factory in the more desirable colors bring even more money. The amount is multiplied when the original horsepower and options go up. An example, a nicely restored '65 green 250hp roadster with an automatic is going to bring less money than a '67 original black 427/435hp that needs completely restored. And if you know of one of the latter please call me:D Condition is also very important. Sometimes a car's cosmetics can hide several sins. Original unhit well fitting bodies will bring more money. That sounds easy but believe me after all of these years those cars are getting fewer and harder to find. I always advise buyers that I work with to look for the exact car they want. Then to buy the absolute best example of that car they can afford. You will be money ahead in the long run. What is important to the buyer and what is less important? Does original motor matter? If not do not don't pay for it. But if it is do not pay more money for a car that is advertised as an original motor car only to find out later that it is a restamp:toetap: Unless the buyer is like some of us here who can do all of the work needed ourselves repairs can be expensive. And sometimes very very expensive. So as others have said here if you do not know these cars really well have someone who really does inspect the car.

:iagree: to all of the above. Well thought out and said. :thumbs:

Like with any C2, you need to have this car thoroughly inspected by a completely competent person. Then have the price lowered to account for the needed repairs, if the car is acceptable at all. That being said, I own a Goodwood Green 67 ragtop with factory air 4spd/ps/pb that I bought in 2002. I looked specifically for a green 67 convertible with a 4spd and factory air and searched online and locally here in northern Calif. for 700+ days, perusing the web every night until my eyes bled. I saw exactly two decent cars in 2+ years and bought the one in Michigan. The car wasn't perfect, since the brakes died in Oklahoma on the drive home and the throttle stuck wide open at 100 mph at one point (wired together throttle linkage). But, I've only rarely seen this combo for sale in the intervening years (remember, the car has to be decent enough to meet my standards: zero rust, no body damage, original drivetrain, decent paint, no mods). $1 in 2002 is $1.40 today, so the prices I remember have not moved significantly over the years. If this is the combo of your friend's dreams, find an inspector here on the Forum and get on with it.