Can't go anywhere
Hey all. I have a 1976 corvette with a 4 speed. Just recently got a hold of it. I am under the impression that the clutch will not disengage. I can shift into all gears with the engine started and without pressing the clutch pedal. Where should I start in trying to diagnose or fix this problem? Thanks
|
Can you push the car with it in gear? Do the gears grind while your shifting them with the engine running? Funny noises while it's running? look for a broken input shaft or a missing driveshaft. Have a look underneath....
|
You can shift the car into all gears without stepping on the clutch while the engine is running? Does the car go anywhere or is it sitting still? If it's not going anywhere at all, something is broken. And are you sure it's the clutch won't engage, not disengage?
|
My sister drove our 68 Falcoln home stuck in 3rd. Slipped clutch till it got so hot it softened and collapsed the springs in the pressure plate. Could also be clutch disk so shot the slip is total.
|
Generally if clutch won't disengage, you crank motor in first and drive away, shifting without clutch til you hafta stop. Shut off. Put in first. Start motor in first when light turns green.
|
alot of things have been llisted as possible problems and you have to crawl underneath to check them.
I pull the engine to get the tranny out easily because the tranny cross member is welded in, maybe the PO changed that if your lucky. Some people say they drop theirs with the engine in but its a hassle, especially if your on the groud, on your back and dont have any room I blew a clutch in a Jeep CJ7 trying to pull my buddies F250 dump up a hill and it just shredded. Same symptoms as you |
Originally Posted by sstocker31
(Post 1598513892)
Can you push the car with it in gear? Do the gears grind while your shifting them with the engine running? Funny noises while it's running? look for a broken input shaft or a missing driveshaft. Have a look underneath....
|
Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
(Post 1598514223)
alot of things have been llisted as possible problems and you have to crawl underneath to check them.
I pull the engine to get the tranny out easily because the tranny cross member is welded in, maybe the PO changed that if your lucky. Some people say they drop theirs with the engine in but its a hassle, especially if your on the groud, on your back and dont have any room I blew a clutch in a Jeep CJ7 trying to pull my buddies F250 dump up a hill and it just shredded. Same symptoms as you |
Well then, I'd get underneath and have a look at the clutch disc and see whats left of it....a new one is about 3/8" thick so you can use that to judge what you have left.
Then you need to drain the transmission oil and the rear end oil (suck the rear end oil out) and see if any parts come out with the oil.... |
Originally Posted by sstocker31
(Post 1598515162)
Well then, I'd get underneath and have a look at the clutch disc and see whats left of it....a new one is about 3/8" thick so you can use that to judge what you have left.
Then you need to drain the transmission oil and the rear end oil (suck the rear end oil out) and see if any parts come out with the oil.... |
Most likely a clutch issue, but the possibility exists it is the rear end that is smoked. Put the car in the air and see if you can turn the rear wheels without the driveshaft turning. If the rear appears intact, the problem is in the clutch and/or transmission. If that's the case, your next step is to remove the transmission and clutch for inspection. It might be easier to convert the transmission crossmember to be removable than to remove the engine.
|
Originally Posted by drwet
(Post 1598515342)
Most likely a clutch issue, but the possibility exists it is the rear end that is smoked. Put the car in the air and see if you can turn the rear wheels without the driveshaft turning. If the rear appears intact, the problem is in the clutch and/or transmission. If that's the case, your next step is to remove the transmission and clutch for inspection. It might be easier to convert the transmission crossmember to be removable than to remove the engine.
|
Hays has always made a good high performance clutch. It's what I use in my '65.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...786186983c.jpg |
I use McLeod but they rate their clutches by HP so you need to research that part.
For the removable crossmember mod,I think there was a couple of posts on how to do it. I havent done it myself, yet. I have the parts though https://americanpowertrain.com/i-238...corvettes.html https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ossmember.html |
Originally Posted by derekderek
(Post 1598514023)
Generally if clutch won't disengage, you crank motor in first and drive away, shifting without clutch til you hafta stop. Shut off. Put in first. Start motor in first when light turns green.
|
Perfection Clutch aka Brute Power
http://www.perfectionclutch.com/products.htm They were primary sponsor on asphalt circletracker we used to own. Perfection manufactures near me which is also close to Darlington. Perfection were good to us ... yes, we ran their flywheel, disk and pressure plate ... so I must recommend Perfection. |
Originally Posted by TimAT
(Post 1598516132)
This works. Years ago, I hauled 40,000 pounds of swinging meat from the packing house in Garden City Ks, to Kansas City. When I backed the trailer into the dock in Garden City, something went "POP" and no more clutch. Found out the center hub had broken out of both discs.
|
Originally Posted by ZackArbegast
(Post 1598515524)
Are there any post on how to go about making the conversion?
|
Take some pics of your z-bar, clutch lever, and the assembly near the bellhousing. Perhaps something may be noticed by multiple eyes on it?
|
Originally Posted by carriljc
(Post 1598519534)
Take some pics of your z-bar, clutch lever, and the assembly near the bellhousing. Perhaps something may be noticed by multiple eyes on it?
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:08 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands