2005 Corv questions
What harm if any is caused if I don't shift from 1st to 4th when the light displays? Lets say I shift from 1st to 3rd or 2nd.
I have a noise when I press in the clutch that goes away when it's warmed up. I think it is the throw out bearing. What's involved in changing that? Thanks for any help. |
Originally Posted by Alex Poliakoff
(Post 1598628919)
What harm if any is caused if I don't shift from 1st to 4th when the light displays? Lets say I shift from 1st to 3rd or 2nd.
I have a noise when I press in the clutch that goes away when it's warmed up. I think it is the throw out bearing. What's involved in changing that? Thanks for any help. |
Originally Posted by Alex Poliakoff
(Post 1598628919)
What harm if any is caused if I don't shift from 1st to 4th when the light displays? Lets say I shift from 1st to 3rd or 2nd.
Originally Posted by Alex Poliakoff
(Post 1598628919)
I have a noise when I press in the clutch that goes away when it's warmed up. I think it is the throw out bearing. What's involved in changing that?
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The noise you’re hearing is the pilot bearing, runs about $2000 to repair/replace |
A blown smart fuse replacing the original fuse will disable the skip shift. Shift light will still come on, but 2nd won't be locked out.
One of like many: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...pass-fuse.html |
Zero harm. Just wait about .75 second for the light to turn off while your RPM drops and pick whichever gear suits your fancy. Or do the bypass or blown fuse method. Edit: You can also give it more throttle and the skip shift will never even engage. |
If someone has already installed a skip shift eliminator on your car you will still get the dash light but the lockout will not engage and you can shift to any gear you like.
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It also can be disabled on a tune... and yes, a throwout bearing (anything within the bellhousing) is an expensive labor expense if done by a shop or dealer. I believe it's something like 10-12 hrs flat rate, can do the math. If you do end up going that route, suggest replacing entire clutch assy & the slave cyl & add a remote bleeder.
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You can just wait till 2200 RPM to bypass the skip shift and shift into 2nd......
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Originally Posted by ProfessorDeath
(Post 1598630489)
Zero harm. Just wait about .75 second for the light to turn off while your RPM drops and pick whichever gear suits your fancy. Or do the bypass or blown fuse method. Edit: You can also give it more throttle and the skip shift will never even engage. Page 2-28 of the 2005 Owner's Manual: One to Four Shift Light (Manual Transmission) When this light comes on, you can only shift from FIRST (1) to FOURTH (4) instead of FIRST (1) to SECOND (2). You must complete the shift into FOURTH (4) to turn off this feature. This helps you get the best possible fuel economy. After shifting to FOURTH (4), you may downshift to a lower gear if you prefer. Notice: Forcing the shift lever into any gear except FOURTH (4) when the 1 TO 4 SHIFT light comes on may damage the transmission. Shift only from FIRST (1) to FOURTH (4) when the light comes on. This light will come on when: • The engine coolant temperature is higher than 169°F (76°C), • you are going 15 to 19 mph (24 to 31 km/h) and • you are 21 percent throttle or less. |
Car is a Z51,has 72,000 and I'm the 3rd owner. I can shift in any sequence, I still get the light sometimes when I'm in that range but someone must have defeated the blocker. I kinda figured it was for an fuel economy reason. I'll say this, that thing sure has decent torque in 4th gear. I like shifting gears, but it's fun to drive it on these twisty back roads where the speed limit is usually 45 and you have no idea what's coming at around the corner or over the hill. Could be a logging truck or a haywagon. I just leave it in 4th thru most of the corners. It just lugs down to a thou and pulls right on up without a shudder. I'm going to have to find a Chevy shop that has experience with C6's to do the clutch. I really appreciate everyones comments. I've had a bunch of 65's and 66's, a 2012 for a short time and now this one which otherwise runs great. I just don't have any experience working on C6's, and pretty much would like to keep it that way. hahaha.
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Originally Posted by Alex Poliakoff
(Post 1598636212)
Car is a Z51,has 72,000 and I'm the 3rd owner. I can shift in any sequence, I still get the light sometimes when I'm in that range but someone must have defeated the blocker. I kinda figured it was for an fuel economy reason. I'll say this, that thing sure has decent torque in 4th gear. I like shifting gears, but it's fun to drive it on these twisty back roads where the speed limit is usually 45 and you have no idea what's coming at around the corner or over the hill. Could be a logging truck or a haywagon. I just leave it in 4th thru most of the corners. It just lugs down to a thou and pulls right on up without a shudder. I'm going to have to find a Chevy shop that has experience with C6's to do the clutch. I really appreciate everyones comments. I've had a bunch of 65's and 66's, a 2012 for a short time and now this one which otherwise runs great. I just don't have any experience working on C6's, and pretty much would like to keep it that way. hahaha.
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Originally Posted by Alex Poliakoff
(Post 1598628919)
What harm if any is caused if I don't shift from 1st to 4th when the light displays? Lets say I shift from 1st to 3rd or 2nd.
I have a noise when I press in the clutch that goes away when it's warmed up. I think it is the throw out bearing. What's involved in changing that? Thanks for any help. |
Your last four words are good enough for me on this one. And I can tell by others remarks as well. Watching the video on you-tube causes me to be skeptical of someone else doing it. Of course it's not rocket science, but there is quite a bit of detail along with supporting the rear assembly. I'd like to find a clean Z06 coupe manual trans, around 2008,9, or 2010, preferably black, and preferably completely stock. I'd buy it and just sell this one outright. Let someone else fix it. I've really enjoyed this car.
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