Who says our blowers don't whine?
 

Mine sure doesn't sound like that.

Sound difference
 

The only time Ive heard mine,very faintly, was in Tour mode on a 35* day.

Nailed it.:iagree:

Sounds like a bearing is on the way out.

Mine does. Magnuson "Heartbeat" superchargers. WHINEEEEEE !!!

Mine doesn't sound like that either.

Bill

I want underhood pics or video.

I'm gonna try it tomorrow. Supposed to be around 28 degrees and cloudy. Perfect time for a drive lol

Did we get anymore information on this...just curious

Combination of the NX lids with a blower porting.

Actually mine sounds better than that. But then again I have a Callaway.

Do you know this for a fact because I called them and they told me their lid does not accentuate the sound of the supercharger.

Yes it does, makes them loud as hell. Every single one that comes into the shop with that lid on sounds pretty wicked.

That's pretty sick. Wonder why it makes the whine so much louder. I've got a 16 and have been wanting to upgrade to a 17+ SC cover so I might have to look into this.

​​​​​​So is result just from the cover and no other mods?

Yes, but of course doing a pulley to spin the blower faster and a cold air intake to let more of the sound out will definitely add to it as well.

I thought that they were supposed to be quiet too. What about if I have headers? Haha

Ditto!

Did you slam a double mocha frappe after posting this?

haha!

I laughed so hard my frappe came out my nose!

So just let me get this straight their cover alone,without the nitrous plumbing will increase the sound of the supercharger?

Sure hope so. I just ordered one. I do have a CAI, but no upper/lower pulley.

Haven't done a back to back but I wouldn't expect any real performance difference by just slapping this on.

I would just do this to liven up the supercharger sound.

Please let us know the outcome with audio.

It'll be next weekend. Car was supposed to be out of the shop today, but now it's another week. It's been 4 months already, so I guess another week isn't the end of the world

I know it's Track mode on dash,
but how did you get those other gauges under bar graph to show that way?
is yours a 2018/19 or whats up?
I see EU versions of standard gauges, is this what the boys overseas get?
WTH I WANT!

That's an 18+ thing. us </= 17 don't get it

https://www.lsxmag.com/news/bolt-on-...ercharger-lid/

24hp just for the lid? Seems too good to be true. I wish they had one without the logo.

I don't know about the hp, but they do make one without the logo. I just bought one

I sent a PM to the vendor @NitrousExpress

Message sent.

Corvette tuner in Tampa
 

The supercharger whine is louder from the outside than the inside.

I'm considering a magnuson heartbeat. How can I get a really good sound out of it? Anything at all?

That's a 2.3L. It should put out quite a bit more whine than the stock 1.7L.

Can you order just the lid?

yep

Lid Only
https://www.nitrousexpress.com/nx939...-lid-only.html

Message me for the best prices.

Ordered one today. Thank you Billy!

Since my car is STILL in the effin shop, if you get yours on before me, do upload some sound clips! I plan to when I can, but it's gonna be 2 more weeks at this point

Will do. I'm actually getting some work done on a quarter panel that I threw a rock through at VIR so when I get that done I'm getting it inspected and then I'l bolt it on. I had to order the hood liner too since I have a 15. Hopefully one of us will have it on soon.

I am anxious to get some feedback on this! I am thinking about one myself since I am planning on updating my tune soon. If I get one I will be sure to do a before/after dyno and give a full review.

Well my car is out of the shop, but I'm out of town. I'll be back next weekend and I'll try to get it installed than and put out an update. I'm anxious to get it done, don't worry!

Also interested in this

Billy I sent you a pm.

I FINALLY got my NX cover installed today and DEAR GOD! It's unbelievable how much you can hear the whine now! Here's a video that should give you a good idea. To set it up for you: My Z06 is stock with the exception of a CAI. Windows are up, hood is down (obviously since I'm driving) and I'm in sport mode, so no gimping the exhaust sound

://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGzWAKEEQ3s

Sounds good. I'm planning to swap out my sc this weekend with the newer style with the taller lid. If all goes well I'll try to get my NX lid installed as well. I may wait a week or so to see how the new sc does before I swap lids.

What's wrong with your "old" SC? As far as I know, the only difference with the newer style is the taller lid. I could be wrong

There are a couple of cylinders that run lean with the old one. I'm also getting an occasional misfire that we can't find a cause for. I'm going to give this a shot and see how it does. I don't have a track day scheduled until April 10 so I really won't know if this helps until then. If it causes any problems I'll post them on the forum. I'm just doing a straight swap so hopefully no issues.

Did you reuse your old supercharger lid gasket?

Oh man, sorry to hear that! Hope it works out!

Not the main one, no. I ordered a new one from trunk moneys. it was like $35 shipped. I didn't know there are 4 little ones around the center holes though, so those I had to reuse.

Thanks for the quick reply! Mine is here just havent dont yet

The taller lid doesn't provide any difference in performance. The rear two cylinders on the LT engines run higher combustion temperatures than the other 6 so GM added more charge air cooling for those two cylinders by tilting the intercooler bricks inside the S/C. Tilting the bricks required raising the S/C lid. If you don't change the bricks there is no reason to change the lid other than looks. Tadge had talked about GM coming up with some sort of an update for 15 and 16 models but I suspect that intent ran into some technical and price challenges. There doesn't seem to be a way of swapping the intercooler bricks and the lid. The complete S/C has to be changed which then prices the GM version out the price range most Customers will pay.

Bill

Bill I'm swapping the whole supercharger bricks and all. I got a takeoff supercharger from Callaway and it looks like it will be a fairly simple swap. Famous final words.. That said I'm going to try to do it over the weekend and hopefully it will take care of my issues.I had to get a new hood liner as well but everything else, that I can see anyway, looks to be in the same place. I think the most aggravating part will be bleeding the heat exchanger again! Hopefully it won't cause any issues with the factory tune and I won't throw any codes.

we ordered a blower from them. Bought it off ebay. Came from texas. Never arrived. Supposedly lost in shipping. Then they said they had another with less than 500 miles on it. We backed out of the deal all together and got a refund. spooked us. Had no idea who we were dealing with. Realized we were talking to one of the callaway girls (wife or daughter?)

Then we got new cars awarded for our car troubles anyway, so it all became a moot point to get the updated blower.

I'm afraid you will probably need a tune next. Long story. Not from the blower swap, but from the state that your car is already in as we speak. I hope im wrong. You wont know again until next winter or if it is still cold in april

By then the warranty will be gone anyway and if it needs a tune I'll get a tune. I love the car and it doesn't make a lot of sense to take the hit I'd take if I trade or sell it. I'll get a mid-engine when they come out with a z06 or equivalent and probably just keep both.

Have you ever tried changing spark plugs and gapping them a little closer? How about making a pass then pulling one of the rear plugs and reading it? What about your coil packs, have you ever tested them to see if one may be going out?

I would start there instead of going straight to a blower swap...

I've been wanting to swap the blower since the big hat one came out. The coils and wires are fine and so are the plugs. It's not something that consistently happens. It's happened 3 times I think since I started tracking it. Not sure if this will solve the problem but I figured since I'm keeping the car that it would probably be better to "fix" this. My misfires may also be related to too much air in the heat exchanger circuit for the supercharger. Time will tell...

if you plan to tune anyway, i would get the 2300, no?

I spend a lot of time on the track so if this will take care of things I'm fine. More hp means more heat and I don't think there's enough headroom to handle it.

sure, you're gonna spend like a grand on a tune, what's another $7000 or so? Pocket change!

I'm hoping that this solves my issue and then I'll sell the 2015 blower. I'm guessing all in I'll have 500.00 spent tops. Plus with the factory tune I should be safe engine wise. I don't need any more power until I'm driving as fast as anyone else there on a z06. At this point I just want a stable platform to work on the driver mod.

Typically the 17+ model year high lid lt4 blowers bring just over 2000 dollars.

I thought a 2300 could be had for under 4 grand. And the 2300 actually brings engine temps down, due to a better flow path and bigger interior intercooler bricks, and not spinning so many rpm, so less heat generated. Fuel system can be left stock as well.

The extra top end power is actually just a "bonus" in my book, but not the reason for me suggesting the 2300. It was actually due to the lower temps.

just because that 3z06 guy always preached about them, did not mean he was wrong. My problem with him was he would tell me all of my threads were not correct, and tried to turn every thread into a 2300 and LT header advertisement. But never did i tell him his stats on the 2300 and providing lower temps, were wrong. He is right. But LT headers bring about much more heat, norcal catless pipes are what i recommend, and that used to bother him a bit apparently.

I got my 2300 for less than $5000. I did a whole bunch of other things at the same time, H/C, custom intake, etc. Already had the fueling mods done along with a bigger HX, but that was for the OEM route. The 2300 when done with a few extra things can get you in excess of 850HP. I will have my final numbers early next week. Made 22# of boost on its first pulls but had some belt slip issues with the smaller upper pulley so upsizing it on Monday. With the gutted cats/long tubes I assure you that you wont hear the SC whine over the exhaust at WOT.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cef689cf2.jpeg
The custom 5" intake picked up some nice gains over the AFE and Halltech. We ported the snout to take advantage of the 103mm TB.

I did the swap and topped it out in 5th without throwing any codes. That just means it's fine on the street. The test will be at VIR on April 10th. If the weather is warm and it all works well I will be satisfied. I'm not trying for more power just reliability. I have my original supercharger taped up and boxed so that if I decide to sell it I can. Not sure yet what I'm going to do but until I get a few track days under my belt I'm keeping it.

glad to hear no codes or limp modes. It will be an improvement over your last blower, that is for sure. Should solve your misfire in the rear cylinders.

Thanks. If it solves that I'll be happy. Evidently I didn't get all of the air vacuumed out of the bricks so I'll have to re-bleed the system once I get a new vacuum pump.

more than the vac power, is the tilt of the car. You can vac the thing until the system cracks somewhere... but it wont get the air out...

Car has to be on a VERY steep nose upward tilt. Find a loading dock ramp and then still jack the front nose up with a floor jack fully lifted from the middle of the car. Get some blocks behind the back tires. Air comes right out like magic then.

I actually jack the front up and then take out the fender liner and remove the bolts holding it in. Then I can turn is so most of the air comes out. Last time I did it with the front clip off and it got almost all of the air out. Swapping the supercharger got the air back in. It's a pain but I'll get it out again.

its not the res that has the most air in it though... its the blower cooling bricks.

Trust me on this :)

or you can also do it the way you are doing it, once a week or so, hopefully the air makes its way down to the res tank as the car is being driven and the fluid becomes hot, and then you can keep doing your method. Will take many purges however your way, is my belief.

My vacuum pump broke before I finished pumping the bricks. The tank had one tiny bubble in it. All of that air came from the bricks in the new supercharger. I ordered another vacuum pump so hopefully I can get it all sorted out next week. It will probably take more than once to get it back to where I had it with the old supercharger but I think the swap will be worth it. At this point I'm waiting on the tools. The mityvac self destructed. It was new but I won't every buy another one. Hopefully the Lisle will work better.

all i know is, the work is cut 1/10th as soon as the car is on steep enough tilt. And the perk is, less fluid has to be pulled out to get the air to come out, so less chance of air coming back in, and it is also a much quicker process.

Might sound like fiction, but at a steep enough tilt, you can literally blow and suck on the clear plastic tube that fits over the filler port, and get the flow of the fluid going back and forth in the system, and the air can come out just from doing it that way. All you are doing is dislodging the air from high cavities in the system... back and forth flow accomplishes that more than vac alone does ironically.

The aggravation ends as soon as the car is on a steep steep incline.

If anyone is still interested in the nx lid, here's a video of mine running through the gears to just under 140.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJv0...ature=youtu.be

I'm going to order the factory bleed tools tomorrow and try it that way. I didn't get all I wanted out today so I pulled the fender liner, etc, and took the top hose off the tank and got it bled completely. I had a hard time getting the top line back on and drained the intercooler. All said and done I wound up right back where I was with air in the tank.It would be nice to have a bleed valve in the top of the tank.

if you dont believe me, maybe BillDeerborn can chime in here, because the factory bleed tool, at the dealership, did not work on his car, until the GM engineers taught the tech that the front of the car has to be lifted to a very steep angle.

Bill is the one who taught me this, and he was correct. There are photos of his car, in a chevy service bay, half on a lift, with the nose lifted, and the back of the car on the ground. Looks sketchy as hell, but whatever. its reality and it works.

One of my "to do's" is create a high point catch point, for air, that can collect it, and then be bled off easily.

I plan to just run a vertical hose upward, from up by the pump, up to the hood seam area, and im HOPING as fluid makes its rounds, any stray air bubbles that happen to go upward through that T or Y that will be installed, will then get trapped in the vertical hose which is a dead end with a bleeder on the end, and can be bled off easily, while the fill port can then be topped off.

I believe you! Honest!

Does that sound come from a stock vehicle?

Yeah man. I posted a video in motion as well. It makes it whine that much

I used the Gspeed dry brake and pump override tool and that helped a lot. I'm wondering how much more I'll get out of the approved tools. It will be an easy test because I can use the Gspeed stuff and then use the GM tools afterwards and see if I get any more air out.

like i said, its all in the tilt... i think i can get the air out just sucking on the tube with just my mouth and lungs, once the car is at a steep enough tilt... the tools are not the issue. I used to have videos up that proved this, but its just not a good video to keep up on the internet, know what I mean?

What I've been doing is jacking the front of the car up, taking off the wheelhouse liner, removing the brake vent, taking the 3 bolts out holding the tank, and then raising the end of the tank to let the bubbles out. The bubbles will float up out of the tube but still need a vacuum to get completely out of the system. The pump is pushing the fluid in the wrong direction to evacuate the tank. It's pushing fluid into the top and out of the bottom. Switching the direction of flow would help a lot with this. It's a pain to get out all of the air simply because of the design.

when i release the passenger side blower coolant auxilary HX, i will fix the mess. I came up with a simple way to solve it. Expansion tanks are not the answer unless a person needs a place to put ice at the drag strip.