Theft Deterrent C7 system disarm, real solution???
 

I know, frequent thread, but NO solutions.
History: Installed new battery, no problem immediate start and drive home.
Contracted Disease: Tried to start car a week later (battery was on Vette charger)
dash came on for short time theft deterrent notice, all went dark. Had to use lever
to open door. Car would not start

Attempted cure: disconnected battery, and reconnected after short time
Car door will not open. Dark dash
have done all the tricks...for immobilizer reset (panic button, then lock/unlock sequence.
Car is locked, windows locked unable to get inside. Have to do the trunk key
to open, Will disconnect battery.
What is the key/ start button, sequence????
Does any know how to avoid flat-towing a Z06 to the dealer
and tearing off splitters and everything else, let alone having to
go to harbor freight to get wheel dollies because:
It's an Automatic stuck in Park!

I love my Porsches
My BMW's
My Audis
Much more than my Z06...now

HELP

Sounds to me like a dead/dying battery; not all batteries are good from the factory. Or loose connections.

Our cars are such battery hogs, that even a marginal battery can cause all kinds of issues.

If it was me, first I would check to make sure all connections are tight, and if so, I would pull the battery out and take it in. Whether it load tests OK (I've had sub-par Vette batteries test out "OK," but in fact weren't powerful enough), I would replace it and see what happens. Certainly, easier than a tow.

Have you tried your other fob or replacing the battery in your fob?

Where was the battery from? Who installed it?

Has anyone found the fix my corvette is doing the exact same thing
 

I installed new battery new starter new fuse block no luck car clicks then dies out I get locked in it’s a 2014 z51 31k miles

It's sure behaving like a dead/dying battery... If the car behaved normally (other than the battery going south) and the problem began with the new battery, that's the logical place to focus. I'd do a load check on the battery and check the connections again... Even new batteries can show normal voltage but fail under load. You also might try jumping it to confirm or reject the battery condition. If you can get it started, a complete electrical system check would be my next stop...

My Z06 was locked down for 3 months after battery replacement. Make sure you follow the PDF instructions written in a post below.
SIMPLE SOLUTION for me: I discovered one of the many connections to the new battery in the battery box was loose. I tighten
it and the theft deterrent ceased! While I work on many of my cars, I had an assistant help install the battery and I did not
re-tighten everything as a final check. Not idiot-proof! I wonder if my new C8 has the same gremlin?
Good luck, I hope you find this as your easy solution. While the battery is new, I now get “low battery” at start, but once
cleared, no problem and it is not a low battery.

That’s what I thought at first put a new battery in today again tested it it clicks then dies out smoke comes out the battery everything it tightened is it possible it’s a ground or short and where would I check? Sometimes I get one click or a few fast clicks then it goes black and I get no electricity in the entire car and the fuse block goes bad it’s the 3rd one I bought I’m honestly lost at this point I’ve owned the car for 3 months and have not been able to drive it since this started

Check battery voltage first
Check rear 12V plug (may have blown the fuse.....I have blown mine twice)
Check battery tender for output
Check car for abnormal parasitic voltage draw

Good luck

There have been posts here on the forum, where the battery has been replaced, and similar problems have occurred.

I don't think it is really an "Antitheft system" problem, rather it is a battery connection problem.

The issue was that when the positive battery/fuse-block terminals was re-installed and tightened, one of the flat metal strap connection sections did not actually sit flush against another metal strap connection, even though the bolt was tightened. This causes a high resistance connection and hence the smoke when the starter is engaged (high current). Undo the bolt on the positive fuse block connection, and make sure that the 2 (?) flat metal plates/connections are really against each other, not cocked, before tightening the bolt.

See post#3 in the below thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rol-panel.html

I checkevse everything new battery new starter new 350 amp fuse check wires when I go to crank it clicks then blows the fuse and everything goes dead would a bad bcm cause this by chance ?

Smoke came out of the battery?

Are you sure it is connected correctly?

I'd check the wiring to the starter. Sounds like you have a dead short in the lead to the starter. Solenoid engages to allow current to the starter, and then it blows a fuse...

Probably okay now since he posted in 2019.

^^^
No, Amarothman2 posted this morning with a new problem. See, post #12.

The BCM can't cause the 350A fuse to blow.
You either have a short at or inside the starter motor, or the starter bendix drive is jammed, or the engine is seized or hydro-locked.

I confirmed the engine is not locked was able to move at the crankshaft starter is brand new what else could it be ?

That would make me suspicious about the new starter or something in the installation.

Solution?
 

Have you find solution for this theft mode? I found A car with same problem for a good price.

Last post was almost 4 years ago.