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Stripping complete, on to bodywork on my 69 roadster
Some of you may have been following my paint stripping thread, a few weeks ago. Anyway plugging along here on the bodywork, and I have been taking a lot of advise from DUB , as I am just a novice . One of the key things he advised me on was , well first of all get all the old paint off , which I did, but the use of Vette panel adhesive filler. Never heard of the stuff before, and absolutely hated it in the beginning, its like sanding concrete. But after using it for awhile , I'm getting the hang of it, I was not putting quite enough hardener in it, and it would take forever to go off, you'd try to sand it early and your plugging up expensive sandpaper like it's going out of style. And once it's hard , it's hard, like fiberglass! But I am really starting to like it , a bit more hardener and it sands sooner, and it's just nice knowing your using a really good product. I had to get a new drivers door from Wisconsin, which is on its way but thought I would share a few photos of my progress, just dialled all the gaps on the hood and headlight doors today, it's coming along well. |
Even got the woodworking tools out for work on the headlight doors. |
Agree!
Originally Posted by Dave Cunningham
(Post 1598671128)
Even got the woodworking tools out for work on the headlight doors. If you have done any woodworking, the fiberglass work on a C3 seems to resemble that in a lot of ways! Here is another tool called a file board I found to be useful (every body man I think has one): They make an air tool like this too, but I find the hand one with 80 grit works great for me. VPA is great stuff, check the date code as some vendors ship you old stuff. Summit has been pretty good on getting fresh to me. Also seems like moisture and air temp affects the hardening rate too so sometimes I have to add a very little bit extra hardener. Hope this helps. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...04d1d19b54.jpg |
Great work Dave, should be good when done. |
The VPA product is a great fit for the work on these cars. Your right about the temperatures. When living in Va. the cold made me use a little more hardener then down in Fla. I t does also require a learning curve to get the feel of the sanding characteristics. Also good to try to get fresh stuff as mentioned. Dub has turned a lot of us on to this product and technique. Also he told me how to back tape things like the door gaps so a lot of the product doesn't fall into the opening. Nice work!
RVZIO |
Thanks, yes I have the plastic version of that long board. I also picked up a whole set of dura blocks , never used them before, they are awesome |
Originally Posted by Dave Cunningham
(Post 1598677177)
Thanks, yes I have the plastic version of that long board. I also picked up a whole set of dura blocks , never used them before, they are awesome |
Yep another one of often used sanding backers for me is an old radiator hose (picked up this idea from Dub I think). The old hose seems to have the right amount of flex and stiffness. Also use some old smaller hoses sometimes for smaller areas.
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Got my new drivers door, last week, beautiful piece from a guy named Randy in Wisconsin, great deal for $200. Got it mounted up and blended in . I've decided to take Dubs advise and gelcoat the car, thought I was ready for that step until I decided to finally remove the two rear door switches from the jams, both seized, tore the rivets out, had to cut access holes to get at the back, so two fiberglass repairs per side to fix them, aaarg! Why didn't I just remove them in the disassembly process. |
Man the gaps around everything, headlights, doors, hood, are looking great. I know it's a Lot of work but you'll know everything is right when you get the finished product.
Great work for a so called "novice". Hang in there, one day...complete. :flag: |
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