new zr1 clutch
I want to bounce a suggestion and ask for assistance on this one. My target RWHP is 550 and around 460 torq
I currently have a fidanza and solid hub lt1 disk (rattles but good streetability, ok at strip for a run or two (hero run) I'm looking at a couple of options jerry's dual disk stock dual mass with a better disk for up to 700 rwhp 550 torq steel flywheel redrilled for high pressure PP with good disk or along those lines, would an LS9 dual disk be able to be fitted with the right disks?? goals,, not running through the clutch during limited drag racing (drag radials) 4.10 gears good streetablility (not too worried about noise on this one :> ) durability up to 800 ft lbs of torq for future growth without sacrificing pedal feel. thoughts??? |
Ron, what are you running in your TT C5Z?
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Originally Posted by Rkreigh
(Post 1598669066)
I want to bounce a suggestion and ask for assistance on this one. My target RWHP is 550 and around 460 torq
I currently have a fidanza and solid hub lt1 disk (rattles but good streetability, ok at strip for a run or two (hero run) I'm looking at a couple of options jerry's dual disk stock dual mass with a better disk for up to 700 rwhp 550 torq steel flywheel redrilled for high pressure PP with good disk or along those lines, would an LS9 dual disk be able to be fitted with the right disks?? goals,, not running through the clutch during limited drag racing (drag radials) 4.10 gears good streetablility (not too worried about noise on this one :> ) durability up to 800 ft lbs of torq for future growth without sacrificing pedal feel. thoughts??? There'a a lot of difference between where you started @ 460 torque & ended up at up to 800 torque. Obviously, any clutch that handles 800 will easily take care of anything below it. The Ram DD Clutch Kit with metallic discs will do the job, pedal pressure is very comfortable but engagement is not going to be as smooth as an organic type disc. If you read all the detailed descriptions on JerrysGaskets website, the differences are pretty well detailed. What is your goal with the "re-drilled" steel flywheel? Just a heavier single mass than the typical aluminum? The Rippie 8 bolt L98 flywheels are essentially extinct now. PM me or better yet, give me a call to discuss viable options for flywheels in the same weight range. |
Originally Posted by A26B
(Post 1598676533)
Ron,
There'a a lot of difference between where you started @ 460 torque & ended up at up to 800 torque. Obviously, any clutch that handles 800 will easily take care of anything below it. The Ram DD Clutch Kit with metallic discs will do the job, pedal pressure is very comfortable but engagement is not going to be as smooth as an organic type disc. If you read all the detailed descriptions on JerrysGaskets website, the differences are pretty well detailed. What is your goal with the "re-drilled" steel flywheel? Just a heavier single mass than the typical aluminum? The Rippie 8 bolt L98 flywheels are essentially extinct now. PM me or better yet, give me a call to discuss viable options for flywheels in the same weight range. the dual disk is a great alternative and the organic would do just fine, it's my fav, but the rattle and weight is up there a single mass steel flywheel will hopefully change the resonance in the clutch stack and not be quite so noisey although the LSV sounds like a diesel truck with the fidanza now and noise really isn't the big driver LOTS of concern about dual disk installation but I believe you've engineered out those early issues and that should NOT be a concern. the advantage of a bit heavier clutch for me would be more inertia off the line. the flyweight flywheels are great and all, and probably have kept me from breaking my sh!t before now. and being a cheap b@st@rd (yea I know WHY did you buy a ZR-1 then? ;> I'm looking to keep the build budget down. I just got all the shiney block and cleaned up pistons and rods and heads are back together so it's show and go time. bust a muv. |
Ron,
Talk to Phil, He was running the Ram DD clutch and did rattle a lot, not sure if he is till running it or what is plan is for the 427. Rich |
Originally Posted by Scrrem
(Post 1598754779)
Ron,
Talk to Phil, He was running the Ram DD clutch and did rattle a lot, not sure if he is till running it or what is plan is for the 427. Rich That big old thumper will need it very nice dual disk setup You know I would seek out Dr Phil in a minute!! |
Originally Posted by Rkreigh
(Post 1598768483)
phil wasn't happy with the noise at all and he's going to try a heavier steel flywheel setup this time
That big old thumper will need it very nice dual disk setup You know I would seek out Dr Phil in a minute!! |
thanks for chiming in Jerry. I think that might be a good way to go to reduce noise.
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Originally Posted by Rkreigh
(Post 1598802567)
thanks for chiming in Jerry. I think that might be a good way to go to reduce noise.
TRM = Total Rotating Mass, Flywheel, Clutch Disc(s) Floater & Pressure Plate Stock, OE Flywheel/Clutch TRM = 58.5 lbs RAM DD w/Alum FW TRM = 34.8 lbs RAM DD w/Steel FW TRM = 59.8 lbs In my 415, the noise only occurs when in neutral with clutch engaged. |
Originally Posted by A26B
(Post 1598805211)
FYI : Comparison of OE to RAM DD weights. DD clutch has one sprung hub & one solid hub
TRM = Total Rotating Mass, Flywheel, Clutch Disc(s) Floater & Pressure Plate Stock, OE Flywheel/Clutch TRM = 58.5 lbs RAM DD w/Alum FW TRM = 34.8 lbs RAM DD w/Steel FW TRM = 59.8 lbs In my 415, the noise only occurs when in neutral with clutch engaged. the b&b with x pipe is pretty rowdy so I don't worry too much about the noise I have a pair of "flapper tips" I'm dying to try on the b&b to quiet down the idle and crooze when needed |
I'm running a fidanza with a stock clutch set up in my 91....Car is ported and cammed w 445WHP......Being a little ignorant and not to knowledgeable about clutches I should have went with a sprung hub disc when the motor was out and being worked on....Most have done that and has cut down on the noise somewhat, some even have no noise...
The noise sounds like a buzz saw in the lower RPM range and lower gears......Clears up entirely when rpm gets to about 2,500.....Don't mind the rattle in neutral, don't bother me, but man, in the lower gears depending how I'm driving the noise is louder than my exhaust, which is full OBX headers and cat back.... I'm guessing it depends on the car and the year since I think Chevy went to a different type of trans in later years... I drove a 95 Z with a fidanza and stock clutch set up and it really only rattled in neutral, that car was cammed also... I don't know, I'm basically used to it and the car does spin up faster with the fidanza but, would a sprung hub disc mitigate some of this issue? |
The rattling from using a SM FW can be mitigated thru:
1. Trans fluid 2. Sprung hub disc 3. Proper Idle tuning esp. if u have cams |
Originally Posted by Dominic Sorresso
(Post 1598901871)
The rattling from using a SM FW can be mitigated thru:
1. Trans fluid 2. Sprung hub disc 3. Proper Idle tuning esp. if u have cams |
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