ValveSpring Upgrade
 

Moved to C3 Tech/Performance Section.

Hydraulic or solid lifters? RPM at idle? What's the idle quality - OEM-like, a little cammy, or really choppy like a race car?
Use these to degree the cam and get its lift:
edit: cam checker tool
Degree wheel

Ever think that running dual springs was the cause of the lifter failure to begin with? Dual springs puts tons of pressure on the lifters and cam lobes. Are you using oil w/ Zinc? Why do you need to turn more than 6500 RPMs?

If you feel that your engine is slacking at the upper RPM range, perhaps its the small 600CFM carb issue. Or an IGN system that can't keep up.
Leave the springs alone. For street use, dual spring is plenty.

If you want a lower shifting point change out the transmission vacuum modulator to an adjustable unit. Then you can tweak it where you really want it.

Usually I don't even post to questions like this because of so many errors.

first of all it takes planning to exceed 6000 rpm safely. The word is valve FLOAT and it is very distructive. What exactly happened to your past lifters? Do you know if the cam lobes are still good? Higher seat pressure might keep you out of valve float, but do you know if your ignition is sparkling correctly over 6000 rpm.

l 48 were not built with good internal parts and maybe it would be smarter to invest in a good digital sequential rev limiter and set it to a 6000 or less red line

h flat setups are not made to exceed 6000 rpm not even most h roller cams.

You do not need to rev past 6k if you have stock heads....period.
That said.....you need to take a photo of your valvetrain setup.....I cant give you any more insight than that until I know what you have now.

Jebby

If you want to run it up past 6k a lot get a solid lifter cam. Kits are about $200, get the right springs, start over youll be much happier.

you did not say you replaced the heads... stock heads will not work with 1.6 RR without binding... Compcams make a 1.52 RR for this purpose..

And if you have stock heads, they dont do 6000rpm... lol:-) they will chock out..

Start with a compression test. Pull the valve covers and check all your push rods and valve action.

Valve Float as some call it, is a warning sign. Take heed. The valvetrain is trying to tell you, you have crap boat anchor heads, small valves, large chambers, poor flow, miss-matched 1.6 rockers and the valvesprings will self destruct soon because the retainers might be striking the valveguides. Pushrods could be rubbing the heads slots. I am surprised you can get 6500 out of it.
I think you have other issues too that only show up at higher revs. Fuel or IGN.

yea... what I said but a little more ..... forceful?? :-) And I do agree with most of what you state..

If,and when, you pull the heads you need to inspect the cam and lifters very closely. You may have introduced more wear when you installed the 1.6 rockers because of pushrod bind. If you find lifters that are no longer convex on their bottoms then the cam lobes have the same wear. Look closer at the lobes that had already worn their lifters, or better yet - plan on a new cam, lifters, and heads instead.