Can't bleed rear passenger brake...
 

I am working on a new project a 1979 Corvette - L82 code 4 .... It was parked for over 11 years in a garage... I just replaced all 4 calipers / brake pads and rotors... The rear passenger wheel won't bleed with pedal / gravity or vacuum pump.... All other wheels are fine...

I tried to search online but all I can find are treads where both rear wheels won't bleed...

Thanks....

Did you change the hoses?

And, if you didn't, you may as well get the super-whammerdyne DOT approved braided steel hose units.

Also, you can make yourself a pressure bleeder fairly cheeply. I don't even try to bleed brakes without my pressure bleeder anymore.

A very quick search reveals these guys at a fairly good price: https://www.ebay.com/i/162718832183?chn=ps

make sure you check shipping charges and whatnot.

I've used a Motive pressure bleeder a few times, and it's great (picture attached, the clamp works much better than the silly chain thing it comes with).

I also use a pair of bleeder bottles, also from Motive.

Finally, and you may not hear this suggestion elsewhere, I make sure there is a bit of Loctite on the bleeder screw threads. Not much, and not so that it gets in the hole, but it helps to prevent air from chasing past the threads.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cfc649ef91.jpg

That's kind of a trick question. Do you mean?

Air bubbles continue regardless of which method I use to bleed?
Or no fluid what so ever comes out of the bleeder screw?
Or, the caliper refuses to take any brake fluid, pads / pistons do not move?

No I did not change the hoses, my local auto parts do not have those in stock anymore... I ordered new ones but they have not yet arrived...
I disconnected the metal portion of the line from the bracket on the chassis going to the rubber hose and there is no brake fluid there either... the metal line I tested with the vacuum pump on one side and the other in a brake fluid container and it is clear of obstructions....

Thanks Carriljc
I will order those and return my rubber ones when I get it...

Thanks Bikespace I just ordered the kit plus the 2 bottles from Amazon.... More tools to add to the collection ;-)

Thanks for the reply HeadsU.P.

No fluid at all comes from the line even when it is disconnected from the caliper.... All I can find online is the valve after the master cylinder but that would cut both rear brakes.... All 4 calipers were in really bad shape but the rear ones had no leaks both of the front ones were leaking even without pressure applied on the pedal...
Is there another valve where the line splits in the rear?

Not a valve but a distribution block at the back. Chunk of brass with one pressure line going in and two lines coming out. Seldom have blockage issues though.

Because the rear calipers rubber hoses are "upstream" more so than the fronts I would suspect a collapsed hose like bigbird mentioned. The hoses can look perfectly fine on the outside, but on the inside is another story.

And yes, the Proportioning Valve feeds both rear brakes so that is not the problem in your case.
If the right rear hose is bad, go ahead and replace both rears, or better yet get the 4 pc set. Make sure they're American made.

Thanks Big2Bird

Thanks HeadsU.P.

I am going to disconnect the rubber hose tomorrow to check if the problem is there... if I still can't get any fluid there I will go to the distribution block that Big2Bird mentioned and disconnect there...

Another question... I can't find anyone at the parts stores near me that knows what tool is used to disconnect the metal piping from the caliper I had to use a pressure plier on my old lines and they were already in bad shape... I want to buy the tool so when the new ones arrive I can install it without damaging it as well....

Hopefully it is a collapsed hose, and replacing the hoses fixes your problem. The pressure from the Motive bleeder may force brake fluid through, but you certainly want new hoses anyway.

Let us know how it turns out! Some additional tips include lightly tapping the calipers to get trapped air bubbles out, and always using flare wrenches on the fittings. I found that I needed a crows foot wrench to get the drivers side hose replaced.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...899c7888e4.jpg

If you still have a Sears around you, they may have a three piece set of "line wrenches" or flare wrench. Three wrenches = 6 sizes. Can be used on brake-lines, fuel-lines , etc.

Bikespace...

I will post either way tomorrow... Thanks for the tip on the calipers...

Have a great night

No they are all closed here... I am looking online...
I have the flare crown attachments from 9mm to 22mm but they do not fit the rear brakes... the front brake lines I was able to do it without any problems...

I guess I will have to figure out when the new ones arrive the back ones may have been rounded by the previous owner trying to change the calipers... they were in really bad shape...

Thanks HeadsU.P.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e924bba3f9.jpg
Here is a pick of my current attempt to bleed the passenger rear brake line...:-(
It still has the old rotor on it... the new one will arrive monday...

looks like that rotor's been painted … paint will contaminate pads … bad

Start spraying now, the fittings you intend to dismantle later, with PB Blaster.

About the wrenches, maybe your local NAPA. eBay takes too long.