Glove Box Light Switch
 

Is this an original 65 glove box light switch? It doesn't look like anything I've seen on the internet.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5a6fc60539.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...67bcf94020.jpg

Thanks,
Dex.

It looks like 63/64 style. They are very similar but not exactly the same. I cannot see the bottom but it might be broken.

Thanks deejaydu! The chrome piece does not look like the 65 switches I've seen online or for sale by the vendors. I didn't take a picture of the back of it but can this evening.

Thanks,
Dex.

The repro light switches are pretty awful..... My 63 version worked only intermittently and was fragile.

Eventually the crimped in center ring surrounding the plastic push button let loose and that's what makes/breaks the electrical connection for the light.....very poorly crafted design.

I bought an NOS original from a forum member and its 100% reliable and sturdier...

I prefer to use this one over a repo, just not sure if it's an original 65 switch or not. I did an internet search and all it ever shows are ones that look like the repos.

Thanks,
Dex.

First photo is 3859328 which was both OEM ('66 AIM, UPC 12, sheet B2, view C -- '65 likely similar) as well as service replacement. Second photo is 3794425. 4425 appears in 1962 P&A catalog with many applications including '63 Corvette. It was superseded as service replacement 8/65, & replaced by 9328. Note the ground pigtail -- probably due to its use in passenger, truck line, other metal vehicles for console and/or GB illumination, perhaps on non-conductive mounting material. Corvette ground is supplied by metal housing tangs inserted into GB frame hole, so pigtail is of no use & could be clipped off. Anyway, the switch you photographed is not like either of these two, nor does it have the look of a current repro (junk) switch. Maybe there were other p/n's 'in between' these two?
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3bf76e97ab.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b702d56569.jpg

I've always thought... and been told.... that original 63 switches were the only ones with the continuous ring of "tangs" or fingers around the perimeter..

Thank you for that info! It appears that this switch is not OEM, just like I thought.

Post a picture of the back of the switch. If you do not want it please let me know.

Thanks
Jay

Here's a couple pictures, but I plan on using it.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...87b1e9e577.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...3e2bed2cb3.jpg

That switch is definitely broken and will be difficult to use. You might be able to rig something up but I am not sure how to recommend to go about using it. There is a reason that it is broken and that is because on the 63/64 style switch the connector is made into the plastic housing and cannot be removed with out breaking it out. In 65 GM finally figured out that the connector needed to be able to be removed and cut a very thin slot in the plastic so that you could push in the edge of the connector and then slide it out. The 65 style redesigned switch was used through 67. The bezel of course is also different in appearance and how it attaches to the plastic housing. The reproductions that are available today are made very similar to the 65 to 67 style switch but they will work for 63/64 but just do not look correct. I hope this information helps.

Jay

This is why the one change I make to factory wiring is to put a bullet style crimped on connector on the glove box wire (usually an orange wire) with the female end coming from the harness.... Every time you remove the glove box you have to fiddle with that fragile connector at the light switch and I'd rather just unplug it at the crimped connector.

Secondly - that wire is always hot and having the bare terminal dangling is not good when working in the area so a female bullet connector prevents shorting it out.

My glove box switch is the same as the first pic (3859328) Does anyone know what connector is used? Is it the connector in the pic below? If not what connector is used. Also, what is this connector called and where can I purchase it.
Also, I noticed that he plunger is a little shorter on the original vs the repro. Is that any concern?
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2c5e9c51b7.jpg

Yes that is the correct connector. I do not think that you can buy it separately. It is part of the original harness. The plunger length does not matter.

That is the right connector - a small piece of hellish design as it is both an electrical connector and configured to physically hold the bulb in by a side pin at the same time.

Its fragile and hokey and once I get one installed and working I do NOT touch it again...which is why I put a bullet connector on the orange glove box light wire (male end coming off the light switch) so I can just unplug the wire when R&Ring the glove box.....

Your are not kidding that it is fragile. I had to take the glove box out to do some wiring and the connector fell off. I went down stairs to see if I could fix it and found parts for at least three switches that have failed over the years.
I installed the bullet connector but I can't get it to feed thru my shortened glove box opening.. ( I have AC hoses and a holley HP computer back there). So now I just have a long wire with a bare end. I was hoping to just crimp a new end on and be done with it. But I am having a hard time finding the connector.

Can you explain "configured to physically hold the bulb in by a side pin at the same time". I have not heard that tip. But it could only be done once as it is hard to get the connector out without damage.

If you look at the actual glove box light BULB, it has two pins sticking out of the base to hold it as you twist and turn it into the socket (as do tail light bulbs, etc..) One pin goes into a slot in the plastic switch, the other pin goes into the slot in the metal connector shown above..

Frank,

Maybe I am having a brain fart here but that wire is hot so if the grounding pin from the bulb attaches to it there would be a short, correct..

There is no grounding pin anywhere on the bulb IIRC. The other pin sits in the plastic housing. When the platic housing plunger extends it rides on an internal metal spring that makes the ground. That is what I remember.

Grounding and circuit completion to light the bulb only occurs when the glove box is opened ... the plastic push button extends by being pushed by the internal metal coil spring. Upon full p/b extension, the spring contacts the (grounded) metal housing of the switch, lighting the bulb. When closed, the door contacts the plastic p/b, the spring is pushed inward off of the metal housing, opening the circuit. The internal spring is what makes & breaks.

Larry -- link below is from AIM for metal car, but it shows the same p/n switch, correct way to install the hook termination before installing the bulb.

http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=102459