U joint or Rag Joint?
 

As I am converting to power steering, my C2 has a new rag joint on it and I'm questioning if I should convert to a U Joint?

Thoughts?

Is the conversion with aftermarket like Borgeson or factory GM Corvette set up? :cheers: Dennis

Factory stuff

Use a regular rag joint. It may not be a good idea to re-engineer the steering. :cheers: Dennis

So that said, Dennis, there seems to be some slop in the column.... How much movement should there be and should I adjust the worm drive?

I'd go with the u-joint. I put one on mine after doing the Borgenson conversion. Very happy with it. Much tighter feel than the rag joint.

Patrick

Is the slop in the column above the rag joint or is the slop, actually play, in the steering box? If it's the column, the upper and lower bearing are suspect. If it's in the box, it probably needs rebuilding. You can get someone to turn the steering wheel back and forth just a small mount while you watch the pitman arm and steering linkage. Compare the movement of the input shaft to the pitman arm/linkage. I have no experience rebuilding or adjusting a box.:cheers: Dennis

If the rag joint is new its not likely to be where any slop comes from. These steering boxes get sloppy with age. They can be adjusted, but you need to do that the way its explained in the chassis service manual. Basically, the adjuster screw in the box cover lifts or lowers the pitman shaft, which has tapered teeth on it to engage mating teeth on the worm gear housing (the sector). That's how the free play is adjusted. Make it too tight and the teeth get crunched. The worm bearings do get sloppy but nothing like the lash between the worm and sector.

U joints are ok for rack and pinion conversions because mist racks are mounted in rubber bushings. Your Saginaw box is hard bolted to the frame. A u joint will remove the isolation and stress the column under normal body/frame flex. Nothing bad may happen but that won't fix a sloppy box.

This^. The body is mounted to the chassis via rubber (or perhaps changed to poly) bushings. The steering box is hard mounted to the chassis and the column hard mounted to the body. If you use a ujoint then the only place to absorb the natural flexing is the column bearings. Not a good long term outcome.

I removed the lower bearing when I put the u-joint in. Upper bearing still in place and column feels very secure. Works for me, ymmv.

This video was taken before I had the steering box rebuilt. At 20 seconds into video you can see side to side movement that will a cause loose steering.

Got it, thanks guys!

GM was making production cars, is why they chose a cheaper rag joint! Cost saving, shows throughout the car, like the tack weld frames, to the Impala a-arms!

I personally like to fix the cost saving engineering!

See post #9 for the correct answer on the rag joint issue.

If cost is no problem to you in a production car then maybe you should purchase one of the high dollar Corvettes that are about to come on the market. If the cost goes up to make it, the cost goes up to retail it.

FYI- Excess frame welding can cause problems with ride, handling and durability, just like too many spot welds in the body of a steel car.

100% on the money. ^^^^^^

you can have both

Ididit p/n 3000033449