What's the preferred chassis grease these days?
 

I've decided to lube the suspension points while I've got my 67 up on the QuickJack. The grease in the grease gun is probably ten years old. I assume it's still OK to use. But, are there any new developments in grease? Is synthetic better than lithium? At Summit they sell chassis grease by color --- red, green blue --- what's that mean?

Louie:

I use NAPA chassis grease. Basic stuff. Looks like plain tan grease. My car is 50 years old and still going using this stuff..........car still original ball joints and tie-rod ends.........no reason to change. :D

Larry

If you found something really superior, it may not get to the parts due to the part having all the old grease encased in it. I wouldn't worry,just buy a quality chassis grease or keep pumping what you have. :thumbs: Dennis

Thanks, Larry and Dennis. I'll use up the grease I have. I'm especially impressed that Larry's car has original chassis parts and he uses regular ol' vintage grease.

Lou

Louie:

To me, grease is grease. If you use the plain stuff often enough, it should prevent water intrusion, corrosion, and wear. So you just need to grease various suspension components with each oil change.

The synthetic grease will definitely last longer without breakdown.........so it is best to use this for those "sealed for life" type components. I know Gary R. now uses the red synthetic stuff for his steering boxes and trailing arm rebuilds. But trailing arm bearings are basically sealed for life, and not too many folks regularly add grease to their steering boxes. For my steering box, I use the original or replacement GM Part Number Lubricant/Grease originally specified for the box. And check and add annually.

For full disclosure........my car is not typical of most 50 year old cars since it has only 27,000 miles on it from new. But it is driven regularly by me on nice days here in the Deep South. :D

Larry

I've been using the Mobil 1, red, synthetic grease for quite a few years. Seems to be working well. No suspension issues.

Mobile 1 may work fine but I stopped using it because I keep experiencing some form of breakdown and oily residue was dripping out of all of my suspension parts and creating somewhat of a mess. I heard from several others at the same time who were experiencing the same issue. Since going to Lucas red high temp chassis grease it's stopped.

I had the same issue as Dan with Mobile 1 and also use the Lucas red grease (my anal nature required a similar colored grease).

It’s actually more important to inspect boots/seals and grease chassis components on a regular schedule, replacing cracked boots and leaking seals when you find them, than it is to pick a particular grease. The grease, boots and seals work together to protect and lubricate your chassis components.

OT.... Lou, How do you like the QuickJack? Looks like a great compromise for routine maintenance vs installing a lift.

FWIW, I have been a fan of Marine Grade Wheel bearing Grease for many years. Al W.:flag:

Thanks for the additional comments. If I do buy new grease I'll get the synthetic stuff. I'm sure Factoid is right, the boots and seals being in good shape is as important as which grease we use.

Lou

I like it a lot. I've had it a year and I store it right under my 67, which has standard undercar exhaust, with the Quick Jack units pushed to the center beneath the car. Pulling the units out to the frame rails and hitting the Up button makes maintenance and inspection a lot more doable. I bought the Quick Jack rated for 3500 pounds because it weighs less than the bigger ones and is fine for my 67, C6 and Miata. I got rid of my rhino ramps, so more room in the overpacked garage.

Lou

Oh wow, glad.you guys said something, I just bought 2 tubes of Mobil 1 grease that I have not opened yet.
Looks like I'll be getting the Lucas.

The MOBIL 1 leaks out of the end of the grease gun but never had any leakage from the Zerks. Rob, you can send me your 2 tubes ��

I use Green Grease for everything.


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Any good grease will do, except lithium, which will harden like plaster. Regular grease never goes 'bad' unless it gets contaminated. As stated, the seals and boots are important to keep the grease in the joints. I've used 50 year old grease that was Military surplus, because it was free. Opened the tin and it looks like new. No worries. Save the white lithium grease for coating battery terminals.

Thanks GTO. Knowing you're a pro mechanic will make it easier to use my existing grease. I realize that the lithium stuff isn't for anything on the chassis.

Lou

Hate to break it to you, but just about all common chassis greases are lithium based. A quick check for Mobil1 synthetic grease shows it is also lithium based. The white lithium grease is generally used for other lubrication jobs like windows channels, door latches, battery terminals, etc.......but even it states it can be used for chassis lubrication as well.

I believe there is also a calcium based grease, but don't see it much. I think some of the white greases by LUBRIPLATE are calcium based.

Larry

Powershift, you are 100% correct. I went in half-cocked and only visualized the WHITE lithium grease. I will go to say if you use white lithium grease or, heaven forbid, calcium based white grease on window regulators, latches, pre-assembly of engines, or ANYTHING that needs to stay moving, you are shooting yourself in the foot. BTDT several times, only to have to pull door panels to remove frozen window regulators and door latch mechanisms that had turn to hardened plaster. And it's great if you want to turn your automatic brake adjusters into a solid, non-adjustable unit. Even had the stuff destroy a differential in a model T I had, where the previous owner had coated the thrust bearings with white lithium and they seized up, resulting in total failure of the unit. For me, ANY white grease will be used for only non-moving parts: battery terminals, rust prevention, etc.

I cringe every time I read about someone using white lithium grease to lube their speedometer cable. I figure they will be replacing the entire cable in about 5 years time - unless the relatively confined space prevents it's caking into a hard substance.