Build upgrade
 

Guys I have read a bunch of build threads on this forum and would like some of your thoughts on my future upgrades.
I have the following mods
Ahp 116 cam, ported Msd,Ahp package 4 heads milled .30,Arh 1 7/8 headers with off road pipe and Corsa exhaust,Haltech 103R.
I would like to upgrade the cam to a Cpr Alpha cam.
I am trying to get closer to the 600rwhp mark.
I feel a Ati under drive is a given since the balancer will be off anyway but what else should I replace since the car is under the knife again?
I dont mind spending the money wisely but not on minimal gains.
I would appreciate your input.

Whats your current hp? Looks like a nice build to me as it sits, but more cam and cnc port the heads are probably the best ways to get there.

If you can score a crazy good deal on a used NW 102, sure why not; but paying for one new to get that 6-8 hp sounds like it may not be in your interest. Same with 2" ARH headers, since you already own 1-7/8" ARH, or a MF108 since you have a 103. A few HP here and there will add up, but so will essentially spending the money twice for mods you've already done.

It is a nice build but I have an itch that needs scratching and the itches name horsepower.
The car put down 530rwhp on a dynojet last year but I just want a little more and from the research I did this cam should get there with very little sacrifice to driveability.

Springs/rods/retainers? Rockers? Trunnion upgrade? You have AHP cam and heads so I’d imagine they set you up properly for the 116, but depending on what the next cam specs are you may want to change all that, some of it will need changing regardless when going to a new cam. Pump gas? 91? 93? E85? meth? I feel like with that mil you’ve got to be on 93 at a minimum. Fuel is another route to gain HP if available. Only problem with max effort or getting close to that is the cost per mod to HP gains at the wheel...closer you get to 600 N/A the more money each 5-10whp cost. Drivability will take a hit as well, good tuning damn sure helps but let’s be real....600+whp N/A with a dope tuner is far from “street friendly” that may not matter in your specific situation, just something to think about. What’s it looking like out back? One of the smartest thing I’ve read on this forum when it comes to planning a build path(wish I would have saw/read/thought about) this before my building “start with the rear set up, build it to handle the power your looking for first and move forward.” If you already have a solid wheel/tire/suspension set up to handle 600+ disregard. If not look into it man....or you’ll be “rolls only” for a little while lol.....ask me how I know🤦🏻*♂️

The Ahp heads come with BTR dual springs and was told that should be plenty for this cam.
We have plenty of 93 octane here I'm Ct. and that is what the CDC ar is currently tuned for.
This is not a max effort build but would like to be close to the 600rwhp mark.Should I change my oil pump or timing chain?, is it really needed?

Cam will make the biggest difference. CPR alpha cam is a GREAT setup, and probably what I would do if I was doing a NA build. They drive great and the numbers are crazy good. Next step up would probably be different heads for biggest gain. 2" headers and other stuff will add 5 here, and 5 there, but you can spend a lot chasing that 5rwhp bumps. Go for the big items.

Oil pump doesn't need to be changed, yes timing chain should be upgraded.

Thanks again for all the input guys, I value all your opinions. I think I am definately in for a trunnion upgrade, balancer and timing chain and according to Joe this should get me in the 580ish range and if it's more that's a plus.
I am also trying to set it up so Jeremy Formato can tune the car and from what I have seen this guy is very meticulous.

Be wary of trunion "upgrades". People throw that world around like all of them are better than stock. Many are worst than stock and are a big downgrade. Nothing wrong with stock rockers for most applications. Balancer is always good because the stock ones fail. Not so much an upgrade for power, but for reliability and protection of the motor.

Uneal,
I have an 06 didn't that year have the needle bearings?.I have read quite a bit of trunnion upgrade threads and iifr you stated before that it is really not needed and stock rockers are fine, again if the gains are not there or if it is not needed I wont do it and it will be more beer money in my back pocket.

All LS motors have needle bearings, 1997-2013, and in fact all LT have needle bearings too. The only ones with bad needle bearings was one specific batch in 2007. Because of that bad batch, companies jumped on the scare wagon and started pushing a cheap easy upgrade that put $100+ in their pockets. Then all of those "upgrades" started to fail at a far higher rate than factory trunions, so then you go back and get upgraded again to a newer design, then again, etc. Do what you want with your money, but I would just run OEM rockers unless there was a specific reason you could not. If you do want to spend money and swap them out, I'm sure Joe knows which ones work well. The bronze ones many people are upgrading too have a service life/limit, and if you do those expect to replace them on a regular basis as opposed to if/when one fails.

I just want a good running motor and not have to worry about replaced components failing on me. I want to drive and enjoy the car and sure I realize that it's not a stock car anymore.

you don’t like the Che upgrade? I wasn’t specific but that’s what I was was referring to, thought it was just a given to use it.

Very much not a given. Considering all the bronze ones that actually have been inspected after 10-20k miles, show wear, and need for replacement, if you want to spend money, to upgrade to something that every 25-30k miles needs rebuilt to possibly avoid a rare and noncatastrophic issue, go for it.

If you feel the need to do it, the CHE is one of the better ones, but I would just stay with stock. If you want to mess with rockers and "upgrade" I would do the comp BSR system that actually helps valve train stability, lift, and power, as opposed to may or may do anything for reliability and may be a step down.

👍🏻 I stayed away from messing with rockers personally, seemed like the only ones worth it were a bit pricey.

And technically, there was nothing wrong with the needle bearings themselves...it was a bad bearing cage (end cap) that would fail and cause the needle bearings to get spit out.