Forgestar F14: Not Hub Centric
So it seems that the Forgestars are not hub centric.
Do any of you guys have a problem with the rings? I will be swapping track and street setups twice a month. Do the rings hold up. Anyone have any problems with the wheels or wish they had not got the Forgestars because of this? Thanks DH |
I consider anything with a conical lug seat to be lugcentric and thus far, I've never had a vibration or problems on several vehicles with aftermarket wheels
I also have had those stupid plastic rings that come with "hubcentric" wheels break and I just throw them away, no problems to speak of, yet |
Throw away the dumb plastic rings and use with confidence.
I have been racing on F14s for years. A good race wheel at a good value. |
Originally Posted by arthursc2
(Post 1598972793)
I consider anything with a conical lug seat to be lugcentric and thus far, I've never had a vibration or problems on several vehicles with aftermarket wheels
I also have had those stupid plastic rings that come with "hubcentric" wheels break and I just throw them away, no problems to speak of, yet :cheers: DH |
Originally Posted by Olitho
(Post 1598972813)
Throw away the dumb plastic rings and use with confidence.
I have been racing on F14s for years. A good race wheel at a good value. I will just order mine without the "dumb rings" and ask for a big discount instead :D :cheers: DH |
I thought this was a problem. Physics is all wrong if not hub centric. I even epoxied in aluminum rings to make wheel hub centric. That worked ok then heat of racing cause rings to fall out. Some times ring stick on hub then interfere with proper seating. I even feared a helper would not pay attention abd really have serious problem with improper wheel placement. Eventually I gave up the rings. Oli is right. I have continued to race on them and still do without hub centrics abd there is zero problem.
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Originally Posted by fatbillybob
(Post 1598973421)
I thought this was a problem. Physics is all wrong if not hub centric. I even epoxied in aluminum rings to make wheel hub centric. That worked ok then heat of racing cause rings to fall out. Some times ring stick on hub then interfere with proper seating. I even feared a helper would not pay attention abd really have serious problem with improper wheel placement. Eventually I gave up the rings. Oli is right. I have continued to race on them and still do without hub centrics abd there is zero problem.
:cheers: DH |
How about the CF10? Are those wheels good for the track? I am considering getting them for my GS in OEM size and running MPSS. Any worries to speak of?
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Originally Posted by GoatHead
(Post 1598985657)
How about the CF10? Are those wheels good for the track? I am considering getting them for my GS in OEM size and running MPSS. Any worries to speak of?
|
You should really use the aluminum hubcentric rings. They serve as a backup if for some reason there is not sufficient clamping force on the wheel to hub interface. The studs will thank you.
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Originally Posted by arthursc2
(Post 1598972793)
I consider anything with a conical lug seat to be lugcentric and thus far, I've never had a vibration or problems on several vehicles with aftermarket wheels
Torque them down properly! I check street car torque every month Track car check after every session :cool: |
I have Enkei's with aluminum hub centric rings. No issues and lots of track miles. The aluminum rings give me a little peace of mind. You just have to keep up with them.
Kirk |
High Heat Locktite and aluminum rings. Lots of track time with no problems.
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I’ve taken wheels on and off a bunch and never had a problem with the plastic hubcenteic rings breaking.
I have forgestar street and track wheels so I just leave the rings on. But ive never used them on my other track/drift car and never had any issues, like others have said. |
A long time ago Aaron Pfadt posted a detailed thread with an analysis showing hub centric was irrelevant with conical lugs installed to OEM torque. The hub center did nothing to support the wheel.
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Originally Posted by Tool Hoarder
(Post 1598989789)
A long time ago Aaron Pfadt posted a detailed thread with an analysis showing hub centric was irrelevant with conical lugs installed to OEM torque. The hub center did nothing to support the wheel.
:) |
Originally Posted by froggy47
(Post 1598993570)
This same old misconception regurgitates itself every so many months, results in lots of wasted keyboard discussion, then goes away only to resurface again. Good for clicks I guess.
:) |
Originally Posted by Olitho
(Post 1598972813)
Throw away the dumb plastic rings and use with confidence.
I have been racing on F14s for years. A good race wheel at a good value. |
Thanks all for your replies. I am definitely not worried about rings any longer.
Sorry I got Bob to regurgitate again :D Are any of you guys running 18x12 and 18x10 wheels. I would appreciate knowing your offsets. There seems to be a lack of consensus out there as to what is best. I don't want outside fender rubbing with 335 rears and 295 fronts. And I want to keep the basic OEM geometry......in other words I want the same front to rear stager (front narrower than rear) Thanks :cheers: DH |
My setup:
F: 18x10.5 +56 (12MM spacer so +44) did not rub with 295/35-18 Nitto NT05's when I tested it on the street. Gonna throw some 315 Rivals on in the spring (I know some of you are going on Spring break soon, but it's still in the negative ambient + snowing where I'm at) 25.75" front ride height R: 18x12 +59, 335/30-18 Rivals, no rub at all. 27" rear ride height? Still in work due to coilover install but there's to much ice out. |
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