Anyone have actual experience with a dual disk clutch
 

Anyone have recent, say last five years, experience with a dual disk clutch? In particular McLeod, RAM, ACT or Exedy. Its a daily driver and a high force pressure plate is a no go.

I have the RST on my 69. No miles yet but previously ran the old Mcleod Street Twin. Great clutch, easy pedal effort. I also used the 10 pound aluminum flywheel with it. Loved everything about it and am using a light flywheel with my RST as well. One thing you have to keep in mind with Corvettes is we only have about .580 inches of travel, so you need a clutch that will release in that space. I tested my RST in a press and it released in .450. There was a great thread here in C2 by Lars which explored this in great depth which is where all my information is coming from. I will find the link and post it. Here you go.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...vel-range.html

Just what I needed! Thanks!

How much horsepower are you intending to run? What type of pedal feel do you want?

Never mind, go with whatever Lars says...he is the man!

They work well...as long as they make a clean release as mentioned. Your linkage needs to be in good shape and not flex. Pay attention to the center plate and make sure it floats properly. I've run the McLeod Street Twin and the RST. Both worked well.

Also as mentioned...how much HP? I ran a Centerforce DF behind my 427...then the 540 and it did very well until I got into the 800 HP range. Even on slicks.

I gave it to a buddy who still flogs it regularly behind a 525 HP small block.

JIM

It does about 610 to the tires. The current clutch is a Spec stage 2+ with a low pedal effort pressure plate. Its held up well for close to 40000 miles, but Spec doesn't make them any more. I had a regular Spec stage 2 in it years ago, but the pedal effort was too much for a daily driver. I heard good things about the RST, and just wanted some informed input.

Personally would stay AWAY from an aluminum flywheel for your application....Do your own research about the driving/engine characteristics of an aluminum flywheel "Specifically" for your engine...horsepower...vehicle weight....driving style....Mark

Currently running a stock small block flywheel (12 7/8", 153 tooth, 37 lb.). No plans for aluminum, but possibly one of the 12 7/8"/15 lb./153 tooth, nodular steel GM replacements.

Funny thing about the clutch linkage - the pedal to bellcrank pushrod broke near the base of the threaded end about 10 years ago. Fixed it with a 1" long 3/8 coarse nut and the repair is still working fine. Had exactly the same failure on my 65 some 30 odd years ago.

I really appreciate all the responses, and did read Lars' article last night.

http://blackmagicclutches.com/diaphr...tclutches.html

Talk to Cale. He'll steer ya straight and not sell you something you don't need. I'm running a blueprinted dual disc ACE in my 67 and love it.

How did you like the Centerforce DF? Driveability, pedal effort? I had one on a different car long time ago, liked it a lot. Considering going back to one in my current car (C5 Ls2 427, about 550whp). They are not common from what I can tell in the Vette world.

I liked it. Low pedal effort, shifted clean at high RPM. When I used slicks it would slip just enough on a launch to not break stuff and then recover well. There's some trick multi disc setups for later stuff out there too. Mutil disks are best if you can make discs smaller for less rotating mass and still have enough area to hold the power.

There's others that make similar setups.

JIM

w/427Hotrod the DF is an all around ideal setup. Wtih 610 to the ground the op may need a little more
Trick is to use as little clutch as you need where it doesnt slip. An SFI steel (not iron) is a safe bet

I'm running the RST Twin setup in my 407 500/500 '64. I really like it - easy pedal effort, full disengagement, smooth engagement, and great holding power when flogging. I'm using the RST with an aluminum flywheel with a steel friction surface insert. This low-mass and low-inertia combination makes this engine rev like a Japanese motorcycle engine. The setup is probably over-kill for 500 horse, and I could have used the Street Pro 11" shown in my article (linked by 69ttop502 above) and saved a bit of money. :thumbs:

Lars
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8714cebc99.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1b48bd3f1a.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0f0da64bc5.jpg

Looks like 65silververt had it right. Lars is the man! That looks like a 14"/168 tooth flywheel. Is it? I'm assuming McLeod make an adapter ring for 12 7/8 flywheels.

Thanks again.

MY dual disc, Center Force, OEM clutch works fine in my 2002 SR/2 Ford Escort. Easy pedal pressure. Excellent grab.

Good observation. Yes, I'm running the big 168 tooth flywheel - it's an 18-pound RAM billet part. McLeod makes the RST system for the smaller flywheels as well. :thumbs:

Lars

They use that clutch in conjunction with a needle bearing pilot bearing, which has a nasty habit of coming apart... when it comes apart, that clutch doesn't work very well any more, and swapping the clutch in that Escort is much less fun than pulling the tranny out of a C2... :eek:
Lars

needle roller pilot bearing is "needless hype"...with NO real functional advantage...ONLY....a Massive Downside!!!...

Use a Sintered Bronze pilot bushing....Mark

I agree with Lars on the light flywheel. My 502 revs quick and I had no problem on engaging on hills and such that others said trying to discourage me from running it. Our cars are for the most part pretty light. I wouldn’t trade the light flywheel feeling for anything. The Street Twin flywheel only weighed 10 pounds. I am running a 12 pound Mcleod aluminum now with the steel friction surface.


Bill