Electrical issue
First, let me preface this post by saying that electronics is not my best area but here is my problem.
I have a 67 convertible that will not start. Here's what I've done so far: Engine does crank, no spark Put test light on ballast resistor and coil with key in ON position, no light Put test light on ballast resistor and coil with key in ACCESSORY position, does light in both places. All wires on solonoid are tight. Any suggestions as to what could be causing this |
there is anther guy with the same problem on page one
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-experts.html most of everything to help you is listed in that thread. good luck and keep us up dated |
Just to clarify, here's what should happen;
Key in on position, test light clip on ground, pointed end on ballast resistor, light should come on both ends of ballast resistor and on the + on the coil. Key in acc position light should not light on either end of resistor. Key in start position light should light on the ballast resistor and the + on the coil (it's the same electrical connection). If your description is correct, you should be able to run the engine by holding the key in the start position after it starts (IF IT DOES). You should also be able to start the car by connecting a jumper from the positive on the battery to the + on the coil. If it doesn't start with the jumper, you have more than one problem. You should always have voltage on the ballast resistor (and therefore the + on the coil) with the key in run position (comes from the ignition switch) AND in the start position (comes from the starter solenoid), both are pink and connect to the + on the coil. Neither should have voltage in the ACC position. |
We did get it to fire by jumping the battery to coil so hopefully we are on the right track. Thanks for the input!
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Originally Posted by Mr. Froggy
(Post 1599042491)
We did get it to fire by jumping the battery to coil so hopefully we are on the right track. Thanks for the input!
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No spark on 67
WE did finally get the car running as we found one of the wires from the solenoid to the positive side of the coil was just hanging on by a few strands and wasn't giving us enough voltage at the coil. Actually ended up cleaning up a lot of wiring issues so hopefully I won't have any future problems (at least along those lines). Thanks for the advice from all who posted. Nice to have so many willing to lend a hand and much needed advice.
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert
(Post 1599039744)
Just to clarify, here's what should happen;
If your description is correct, you should be able to run the engine by holding the key in the start position after it starts (IF IT DOES). You should also be able to start the car by connecting a jumper from the positive on the battery to the + on the coil. If it doesn't start with the jumper, you have more than one problem. You should always have voltage on the ballast resistor (and therefore the + on the coil. |
Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
(Post 1599048524)
:eek: Something I would never do...
Neither would I, I was pointing out that the voltage would remain on the coil + with the key in the start position but not in the run position if the voltage from the ballast or ignition was missing, but the voltage from the solenoid was there. Just a test, not a suggestion as normal operation. IF the car started, but died when key released the problem would probably be the ballast source to the coil. |
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