Valve Job 66 327/350hp
 

I’m having a valve job done on my 66 327/350hp original engine. I’m going to replace the water pump while it’s apart and of course all new gaskets and bolts. Are there any other items I should consider replacing during this job (lifters, pushrods…..).

Henry

I assume you have noted where each pushrod goes with relation to the particular valve it was operating as well as the rockers, you will need to do the same with the lifters if you remove them from the bores, having said all that and you have the heads off i would check the lifters for wear, i would also look at replacing the timing chain, dont know how many miles are on your car but your more than half way there. I might also pull the cam and check for wear, if you find some concave lifters your will want to pull the cam anyway.

Since it's an L-79, consider having the machine shop pin the rocker arm studs. This will insure that none of them will "walk" out. The 350's had screw in studs. I had the heads of my 66 and 68 small blocks pinned. It cost about $3 each to do. Just extra insurance. Jerry

Good advice so far...........but I think I would just go to screw in studs for the rockers and be done with it. Timing chain replaced for sure.

Get a three or multi angle valve job vs standard. Watch the head gasket thickness of new vs what you removed. New ones are thicker than originals and will reduce compression unless you take action. Maybe CC the heads as well.

Larry

If the water pump is original and dated to your car dont let it go as a core charge

The motor is 53 years old. PLEASE, pull it.........send it to a good machine shop and let them go thru it. timing chain YES.......YES. Oriiginals were plastic and gears broke. camshaft wear..........main bearings wear. You have no idea what has happened to this motor over the years. MAKE sure they don't touch the numbers on the block and deck it. I would insist to be there when they tear it down.

A friend with a 65 original fuel injection car started as you.........but found wear in one cylinder. So he pulled the motor. Discovered a cracked ring and wear on one cylinder. It required a sleeve. TODAY, he has the ''original'' motor back in the car and it runs like a watch. He even got a NCRS DUNTOV Award in 2012. The money he spent has returned 10 times in the value of the car.

This is called project creep, before you pull the motor, you have the heads off already, look at the top of the cylinder bore, slide your finger into the cylinder and feel for a ridge at the top of the bore, if you can feel a lip or ridge, i would pull the motor and tear it down for a complete rebuild , if you dont feel that ridge it means there is minimal wear in the cylinders, at that point i would be happy to slap the reconditioned heads on along with whatever else needed replacment and go for a nice long ride.

Check the one thing most cheap out on is guides. If they are worn that new valve job will get beat to death in a hurry.

Hopefully you (or your mechanic) did a compression test and maybe a leak down test to determine the state of the valves and rings before it is torn down. It will give you an indication of the ring / valve sealing to help in your decision of what needs replaced. Also read the plugs, etc.

Also, once the heads are removed you can easily do a check of the cam lift / wear using a solid lifter at each lobe,
do a visual on cylinder wall condition and "ring ridge",
check head and intake gasket sealing, etc.
to help in your decision as to what you need.
Although not the correct way to check the bores (with the pistons in), I run a snap gauge in each bore to the top of the piston and at the top of the cylinder to get an idea of wear and egging. OEM Rings and rod bearings are cheap, but of course getting it bored is not.

Good luck

Ron