Considering a 2010 3ZR
I've located about four cars of interest within driving distance ranging from 8K miles to 32K miles on the ODO. It has been more than a few years since I sold my '08 Z06 and am about ready to make the plunge again. What should I watch out for aside from the dreaded vibration issue with the rotor imbalance? I'll be sure to give them the obligatory "shake down". Wife loves the C7s, but sadly they are too cramped on the interior for my size.
Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. I'll look at one or two of them tomorrow and narrow them down by the end of the week. Or should I steer clear of them completely and wait for the C8s? Thanks. :) |
Check the clutch fluid, if it's black, Ranger method. If the Master Cylinder has not been changed take it to a dealership and tell them your clutch pedal has been sticking to the floor, there is a TSB on this and they will change it out for free. It will happen to you eventually if you do not do this.
Check the front splitter and side skirts for repairs and/or if they are original. These are around 1800.00 each to replace with real ones. Check the dash, especially passenger side near windshield, you are looking for the leather pulling away from the dash. Check the date code on the tires, low mile ZR1's tend to have old tires on them. No matter the thread depth, old tires are junk and dangerous. Feel under the windshield wiper cowl near the corners of the blower. You are looking for holes drilled in the cowl. If the blower has been off (non-GM dealer work) it will most likely have holes drilled in the cowl for easier access to the two rear corner blower bolts. Check the seal around the main wire harness (cuts, rips, tears) this is the most likely place for nitrous lines, wide band wires etc. Check the shocks for any signs of leakage. HVAC control unit going out if fairly common Brake rotors, looks for chips around the edges and weigh them if you can, very very expensive to replace. |
Excellent write-up. Thanks for the feedback! Some of those sound familiar.
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Originally Posted by Bigjsn250
(Post 1599229930)
Check the clutch fluid, if it's black, Ranger method. If the Master Cylinder has not been changed take it to a dealership and tell them your clutch pedal has been sticking to the floor, there is a TSB on this and they will change it out for free. It will happen to you eventually if you do not do this.
Check the front splitter and side skirts for repairs and/or if they are original. These are around 1800.00 each to replace with real ones. Check the dash, especially passenger side near windshield, you are looking for the leather pulling away from the dash. Check the date code on the tires, low mile ZR1's tend to have old tires on them. No matter the thread depth, old tires are junk and dangerous. Feel under the windshield wiper cowl near the corners of the blower. You are looking for holes drilled in the cowl. If the blower has been off (non-GM dealer work) it will most likely have holes drilled in the cowl for easier access to the two rear corner blower bolts. Check the seal around the main wire harness (cuts, rips, tears) this is the most likely place for nitrous lines, wide band wires etc. Check the shocks for any signs of leakage. HVAC control unit going out if fairly common Brake rotors, looks for chips around the edges and weigh them if you can, very very expensive to replace. |
I just drove 7500 kms round trip for my 2010 ZR1 10,000 original miles on the car. What a great car. Front tires were original and rears were spun off. I put the Continental extreme contact sports all around. MUCH quieter than the run flats and they have tons of grip. The C6 is noticeably roomier inside than the C7's.
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Originally Posted by Dave Kemp
(Post 1599233037)
I just drove 7500 kms round trip for my 2010 ZR1 10,000 original miles on the car. What a great car. Front tires were original and rears were spun off. I put the Continental extreme contact sports all around. MUCH quieter than the run flats and they have tons of grip. The C6 is noticeably roomier inside than the C7's.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f63a0e05f0.jpg 2010 Corvette ZR1 3ZR - Side |
Very nice...congrats!
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Originally Posted by MTPZ06
(Post 1599233162)
Very nice...congrats!
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How do you know it's #1300. Are you looking at the last 6 of the vin? Guess what mine is?.... 1303.
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Originally Posted by Dave Kemp
(Post 1599233727)
How do you know it's #1300. Are you looking at the last 6 of the vin? Guess what mine is?.... 1303.
Ours were built four days apart! Pretty cool. Who was your engine builder? It's not listed in the registry. --Vince |
One way to stop dash rot is to get a clear UV protect shield installed on the windshield. It is installed like side window tint. 3M makes a superior product. The second, and most important feature of the shield, is safety. Having been an EMT years ago I got people out of wrecks that are covered in and or cut by windshield glass shards. The clear shield prevents or significantly reduces this from occurring. I have it on my ZR1, Dodge Hellcat and Ford Excursion. Food for thought.
Ed |
Originally Posted by SweetZO6
(Post 1599235618)
One way to stop dash rot is to get a clear UV protect shield installed on the windshield. It is installed like side window tint. 3M makes a superior product. The second, and most important feature of the shield, is safety. Having been an EMT years ago I got people out of wrecks that are covered in and or cut by windshield glass shards. The clear shield prevents or significantly reduces this from occurring. I have it on my ZR1, Dodge Hellcat and Ford Excursion. Food for thought.
Ed Incidentally, does any one know Jim Walt? He was the second owner. |
Very cool. I would like to learn more about my car's history. It's in absolutely beautiful shape. Whoever owned it before me took exceptionally good care of it.
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well...……...big congrats!! and smart move. You'll enjoy it !
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Originally Posted by Bigjsn250
(Post 1599229930)
Check the clutch fluid, if it's black, Ranger method. If the Master Cylinder has not been changed take it to a dealership and tell them your clutch pedal has been sticking to the floor, there is a TSB on this and they will change it out for free. It will happen to you eventually if you do not do this.
Check the front splitter and side skirts for repairs and/or if they are original. These are around 1800.00 each to replace with real ones. Check the dash, especially passenger side near windshield, you are looking for the leather pulling away from the dash. Check the date code on the tires, low mile ZR1's tend to have old tires on them. No matter the thread depth, old tires are junk and dangerous. Feel under the windshield wiper cowl near the corners of the blower. You are looking for holes drilled in the cowl. If the blower has been off (non-GM dealer work) it will most likely have holes drilled in the cowl for easier access to the two rear corner blower bolts. Check the seal around the main wire harness (cuts, rips, tears) this is the most likely place for nitrous lines, wide band wires etc. Check the shocks for any signs of leakage. HVAC control unit going out if fairly common Brake rotors, looks for chips around the edges and weigh them if you can, very very expensive to replace. |
Wow that is cool. I'll look on the engine and see if I can find out. Does yours have one of these air boxes?
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...cc42c45aa7.jpg 2010 ZR1 |
Originally Posted by Dave Kemp
(Post 1599237663)
Wow that is cool. I'll look on the engine and see if I can find out. Does yours have one of these air boxes?
God willing, this car will be with me until I am too feeble to drive it. I may get other Vettes down the road, but this one was a bucket-list item that is now fulfilled. :) |
Originally Posted by RedZ4me
(Post 1599236495)
well...……...big congrats!! and smart move. You'll enjoy it !
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Originally Posted by Speedracer42
(Post 1599237543)
Not to focus too heavily on one point, but a TSB is not a recall. For a dealer to replace something for free beyond base warranty it is because the item has been recalled or has a special warranty extension specific to whatever component had the issue. Can you be a little more clear on the master cyl issue you are referring to?
10 years or 120,000 miles from vehicle first being placed into service. All you 2009's and 2010's better to get to the dealership! |
Originally Posted by Dave Kemp
(Post 1599236129)
Very cool. I would like to learn more about my car's history. It's in absolutely beautiful shape. Whoever owned it before me took exceptionally good care of it.
I did some research on the options and color combinations and discovered why it was so difficult to find a JSB car in Texas with low miles. See new signature. |
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