Tips for doing AMT camber blocks on a C7
 

Some tips if you're doing AMT camber blocks on a C7 on jackstands where you have to cut the bolt at a 45 degree angle; unless you have a smaller sawzall than mine or get the car way high. I ended up cutting bottom up:

1. Protect the gas tanks from saw blade kicks. I used a folded towel and painters tape. Maybe it was the angle I was using but I had a lot. Car up high and sawzall 90° to ground might be better in that regard. On the first side (passenger) I nicked the tank. Nothing critical, but could have been bad. Smeared some JB weld on the nick to make myself feel better.

2. Diablo blades are best. Generic hardware store ones fractured and Milwaukee ones could barely cut. I was using "medium metal" ones (14 TPI). The Diablo did better than all of them with a thin metal blade (18 TPI). 10.9 bolts are hard.

3. On the driver side watch the brake lines! C5 lines go up over the top of the diff; not C7. I got lucky. When I was padding the gas tank I covered them and didn't realize they were that close until I was cleaning up.

4. The LCAs won't move if the LCA isn't lowered enough to relieve the spring pressure; especially if your car has some miles like mine. I disconnected the toe rod, endlink, and lower shock bolt and it moves fine.

5. Watch your brake hose when the UCA is loose. The C7 doesn't have the slack like a C5 with the large loop. I ended up zip tying the UCA to the shock body

7. Be careful using a pry bar on the front of the rear LCA as the trans mounts are in there. Once stuff is disconnected as mentioned above, a pry bar isn't needed.

8. Never knew this as my C5 racecar was on poly, but rubber bushings require the LCA and lower shock bolt to be torqued with the car loaded so they set in the center of their ROM. I used two floor jacks under the lower balljoints. The rubber twists by design vs. poly/delrin/spherical where the control arm rotates around the bushing.

Its not quite as simple as the instructions allude to but not terribly hard.


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I dont have a C7 but have to ask, why is cutting required? There is no way to get the bolt out?

The bolt goes in from the front so you have to lower the entire cradle and support the driveline.

Has the NVH changed much with these?

Camber blocks just lock alignment so it cannot ever move with extreme loading on track. Nothing to do with NVH.

I very much appreciate this write-up as I am helping a friend this weekend with this exact thing on his C7, and was trying to think on how to cut those bolts without hacking everything else up near them. Will pick up some diablo blades. I did Mark's camber kit on my C6Z racecar and it wasn't too bad. Thanks much for posting this.