Those with tilton trans cooler pump - Intermittent or Continuous?
 

Reading the manual for this pump it states: Temperature range: 40-160˚ F Continuous; 265˚ F (MAX) Intermittent

I've gotten the trans over temp warning a couple times so building a kit. How are you all running this thing during track days - continuous (while car is running) or intermittent? Unfortunately there is not easy way to monitor current trans temp through C5Z DIC, and I am trying to avoid running a dedicated gauge.

Here's the pump manual I'm referencing: https://tiltonracing.com/wp-content/...ooler-Pump.pdf

The first problem is that this is a diaphragm pump which is not the best option for transmission or differential pump. A gear pump and preferably one with helical gears is much better and will last you a lot longer. They are similar in price. A gear pump is made to work at higher temps too. I have mine turned on all the time the car is running but its a track dedicated car. If you have a street/track car I would run a temp switch to power the pump. I am in the process of upgrading my transmission cooler for other reasons but I have never gotten a high trans temp warning and I am tracking my car regularly at Sebring in the summer months. The gear pump I have works without fail and it is on continuously.

The intermittent refers to the max temp of 265 meaning that the pump can operate up to 265 occasionally, not all the time. I run my pump constant once the car is warmed up. I do a warm up lap or two and then switch the pump on. As for the trans temp gauge. you can wire a DPDT toggle switch and use that to read the trans temp on the DIC as the oil temp. You simply wire the oil temp sensor neg wire to one side of the switch and the trans overtemp sensor to the other. I give you a detailed schemo if you want.

I agree the point is to run it all the time see that it doesn’t get that hot. Maybe run a warm up lap to thin the fluid a bit, then turn it on and leave it on

id love that schematic info! Please let me know if an 06 z would be different than what you wired up

Great, this is what i was looking for. I would also love a schematic!

I had a few minutes to draw up a crude schematic for wiring the engine trans temp sensor through a DPDT switch so it will display on the DIC as "Engine Oil Temp" in one position, and ACTUAL engine oil temp in the other. Essentially this modification allows the DIC engine oil temp display to show either the engine or trans temp, depending on the toggle switch position. This is a very easy modification as long as you are comfortable using a Digital Multi-meter, running wires under your car and crimping wiring. There are several ways to connect to the engine oil temp harness, but the easiest is simply using crimp connectors, 14 gauge wire, and heat shrink tubing or electrical tape. Be aware that you will be cutting and splicing into the factory wiring harness at the engine oil temp sensor lead and the transmission sensor lead. Make any modifications at your own risk.

Notes: Both sensors operate as Ground Control Circuits. The two wires that plug into the sensor are both negative, one is the ground from the outside of the sensor which is really chassis ground. The other is the thermistor value which is what correlates to the display value on the DIC. The switch leads should be connected to the variable side of the sensor lead in all three connections.

You can find the correct side of the wiring for your connection by measuring resistance with a DMM with the leads between ground and one of the pins from the sensor. . One lead will show almost no resistance and the other will show considerably more (engine/trans should be cold). The higher resistance lead is where you will connect your switch lead wire. (Wired wrong, the DIC will indicate max temp regardless of actual fluid temp) You can use quality crimp connectors with heat shrink to make a reliable and long lasting connection.

With the DPDT switch wired up as shown, one position will show the engine oil temp sensor and the other position will show the transmission oil temp sensor. The center contacts in the switch must be bridged as shown. The engine oil temp sensor at the engine harness should be connected to the center terminals on the DPDT switch. .Once again this must be connected to the side of the two pin engine harness that feeds back to the DIC, not the chassis ground as explained above. I don’t have access to my car right now so I can’t list out the wiring colors. Easy enough to verify with a DMM.

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I went with the continuous pumps when putting together a system for a customers c5. You should do a few laps when cold then turn it on.

Who makes gear driven pumps for this application?

I have not personally used these, but they come up mostly positive in searches;

http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Scavenge_Pumps.html

With any gear driven scavenging pump, you would also need to use some type of pre-filters to protect them, like these;

http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/filter_scav.html

LG makes a kit but at $2k it's hard to justify at the moment. I imagine it is bullet proof though

i currently have a turbowerx one but it has begun to drip a little after 4 years of track use. But it has worked flawlessly and with zero service over that time. I am going to a bigger pump from either Setrab or RB Racing. The gear oil pumps are frequently used in turbo scavenging applications in race engines and can be used for this purpose too. The RB Racing options are 4 different pumps depending on need and size. They are also proven in Bonneville Salt Flat engines so should be able to stand up to our race environment. I do nit know much about the West Marine one or Jamestown one but suspect they are just repackaged pumps from Setrab or RB Racing.


http://www.setrabusa.com/products/oi...mps/index.html

https://rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t.do?pid=63965

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/rever...98?recordNum=9

Thanks guys


I have the tranny and diff kits from Rippie with Tilton diaphragm pumps that perform fine, just prefer something quieter but at this time unwilling to part with around $1000 for quiet.

The pumps are about $300 so if you need 2 it would be no more than $600. Helical gear pumps are very quiet.

I bought this setup too. I fabricated my own on my last car but went with ease this time. Wired in a couple switches in the arm rest so I can flip on mid session once fluids are toasty. Will be running it at the Glen next weekend. Just hpde so I’m expecting this setup will be just fine for the limited duration sessions