Most economical street clutch
 

So I'm pretty close to having my blower installed and I've been doing research on what clutch to go with once my stock one bites the dust. I was pretty set on the Mantic ER2 until I found more recent posts by ECS saying they don't sell/recommend them anymore due to quality issues. I've read mixed reviews on the LS7 clutch, but it's still looking like my next best option. I'll be running the A&A kit with a mild tune for 91 pump gas, so it'll probably put down somewhere around 480-500 whp if I had to guess. I plan on just running it the way it is as of right now, but I'll probably be tempted to push it a little in the future (maybe closer to 600whp). What are you guys running for the cheapest, closest-to-stock feel clutch right now? I'm not looking to spend $1k on a clutch, hoping for something in the 500-750 range...

LS7 clutch will support your goals for now, but if you want to leave a little room to grow, the next step up would be a McLeod RST. I have one and love it.

One thing I have learned in 45 years of playing with cars? Over build. Its not cheaper in the long run if it fails and you have to do it over.
Not to mention what an immense pain in the ass it is to change a clutch in a C5.
Ask me how I know...
I'm on my 4th clutch with mine- RPS twin carbon.

I'd like to read what ECS had to say about the Mantics. Google search didnt come up with anything negative.

Same. I’ve had the ER2 for a couple years/10k miles and its been solid.

Monster lt1s is great. Uses OEM gm disks so it drives awesome and will take 700hp. They also say not to use a tick master so that saves money as well.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0d1ce7b190.png

I would do the 9000 twin disc. Drives great and holds plenty if power if you step up later.

Thanks for finding that haha, I was just going to say I happened to come across it through hours of obsessive research and I wasn't about to do that again lol

Thanks for the suggestions all, much appreciated! I'm most likely going to ride the stock clutch until it gives me issues. Iv'e come across a few guys that have said they were able to make it work for a surprising amount of time (even though 90% of people say it won't last a week). This isn't a daily driver and I'm not HARD on my cars, so I'll take the gamble.....and most likely be back here within a couple weeks of the install :rofl:

I'm running a "clutch max" six puck in my car. They are made by valeo which is an oem supplier for many auto manufactures. It was $145 shipped on ebay and so far I love it. My car is cammed with full bolt ons and 100+hp shot of nitrous and it holds the power great. It is rated for something like 645ft/lbs.

I had a monster 6 puck for a while, they will hold power, but are terrible to live with, stay away from single disc, go with any reputable twin.

Mine drives great, slightly more pedal effort than stock and a little grabbier but that's what i was going for. Some are pickier than others i guess.

I've never heard of these, I just had to look it up and I'm extremely surprised at the price...enough that I'll probably stay away from it unfortunately. For $1,000+ in labor to replace it, I don't want to experiment with a surprisingly cheap clutch :( It looks like the stage 3 and 4 are rated at pretty close to what the base A&A kit would produce, so I'd be close to maxing it out anyway.

a strong single's also gonna have a heavier feel because the plate's gotta clamp a lot harder. that's why twins can run lighter springs & be smaller - they've got more surface area to work with.

also, from what i've read, the puck-style disks tend to be grabbier because they have to have more aggressive compounds in order to hold the same torque with less contact area.

with my TVS2300 from 45k to 73k mi, the stock clutch held on for dear life through a couple track weekends at 480whp & 3 track weekends + a few years' worth of mountain carving at 530hp. but when it came out a few months ago for an LT1S, it had blue spots on the flywheel.