installing gauge bezel.. remove shift console too?
 

71 coupe- my new gauge bezel should be here any day now. My old bezel was broke in the usual place. I haven't removed the lower section yet but it is pretty loose. Is it better (or a must) to remove the shift console stuff to get new bezel in with less chance breaking new one? The new one is for late model stereo in which I plan to install a alpine. Also- I have yet to find a right size Allen wrench to remove those knobs on the sliding vent openers?

No need to remove the center console

thanks.. that will help make it bit easier.

Did not have to remove the console but my car did have a couple of compression clips holding the bezel in the middle besides all the screws. Had to use a wide flat blade to help get the bezel out. Removing the adjacent passenger dash panel makes it easier. Watch out for the smaller wiper panel when you take out the screws as it likes to fall out and hit the console. Some of the wires to the gauges are a little short so take it easy. Try to not disturb the oil gauge line as a leak there is a real bummer....had to replace mine.

Redvette2

:iagree: !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

But, replacing the dashboard gauge cluster pretty much requires disconnecting the oil-pressure line I think. Be careful. Perhaps a new line would be a good idea???

I don't think I had to disconnect the oil line when I replaced the bezel...just had to be very careful. However in my case it had been leaking in the car for quite a while before I bought it. Oil everywhere on the radio and under the console. Tightened the connector up but still leaked so I replaced the line from the engine to the gauge. You can buy the whole assembly with connectors ready to go from any of the major parts houses. Yes...if pulling the gauges out I would recommend replacing if it looks at all tired. Not that hard to do and if it leaks it is a real mess.

Redvette2

I have one that fits...if you want I can measure it with a micrometer to determine the size.

Redvette2

Here's how I would do it. (I've changed out forward shift consoles twice and the gauge bezel once in the last year because I enjoy pain I guess.)
This method just gets everything loose or out of the way safely and this isn't something you want to rush through.


Remove passenger sill plate.
Loosen passenger side dash door jamb screws
Remove passenger kick panel
Remove radio side panels
Remove passenger side dash
Unplug wiper switch wire (you can reach it)

Remove remaining screws in gauge bezel (including 2 going into vent ductwork if no AC) and take off radio knobs, spacers, and nuts under them and the clock knob.

Unplug radio connections

Remove shifter ball, shifter plate, etc.
Remove parking brake console (don't forget the bolt in the rear)

At this point you should be able to slide the console/bezel back a few inches.
Remove radio support brace on passenger side (if it's an original radio)
You should be able to slide the radio out safely.

Now you have a free standing gauge bezel connected to mostly loose shift console -are the nuts still on the bezel studs that hold it tight to the console?

If so, now's a good time to figure that out. I don't have fiber optics and I can reach through the shifter plate opening to get to those.



Once the gauge bezel is loose enough to tilt toward the center console remove 4 screws that hold the gauges into the bezel from the rear.

That should allow you to remove the gauge bezel.

Like said before, be careful of the oil pressure line. I broke mine sliding the radio in one time without following the steps above.

There's a clock stem spacer. Careful not to lose it -and also the warning light stuff.

Wow, there went my lunch break.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b41c4f884e.jpg
My added tip, would be to exchange the standard nuts for the 2 lower studs with T-Nuts.
These are the studs that attach the bezel to the lower console. They fit into 2 slots, but they're a bear to get the nuts on after you've inserted the bezel studs into the slots.
I used the T-Nuts in upside-down direction and pre-started them onto the studs, then slide the studs and nuts into the slots so the T-Nuts fit just under the console slots.
This way, you can button up all the wiring and oil line up above with the studs in the slots and the bezel leaning rearward.
Once you get everything fit-up to your satisfaction, you can reach behind the area and hand tighten those T-Nuts.
Never had a problem with them not being fully torqued, as long as you repeat the hand-tightening several times, with some "wiggling" in between.
Good luck!

My advice is to label the gauge plug/connectors along with each bulb. The back of the bezel identifies the bulb color but after 45 years, there are difficult to see. Also if you label the gauge illumination bulbs you will not end up with a bulb wire being too short. When I removed my bezel, I went to LED’s, if you stay with incandescent, it would be smart to install new ones at this time. I also would do the radio, in case it has the original bulb. I also changed the oil line, as the old one had leaked at some point. Take your time and don’t be in hurry.

I second the bulbs swap for LEDs like Eli above.
The only thing I did in addition, was for the individual gauge bulbs (5 or 6), I changed over to 2-wire grounded sockets and ran them all to a good solid, common ground.
I was always having flickering problems with the original single-wire sockets that self-grounded to the gauge cluster back frame.
100% now that there is good grounding to all those gauge lights. And the LEDs are a little brighter and whiter.