Eforce dyno.
 

Had David Griffin tune my 2008 Eforce only. Made 527 whp and 477 fob on a Mustang dyno. Other them the 599 hp eforce its 100% stock. Iat's were in the 140 to 160 range on the street they never get that high. He said it would pick up another 30 hp at least if we had time to cool it down. It was making 8.4 lbs of boost.

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For those of us who dont know you what year, model, and motor please?

2008 base model ls3 6 sp manual.

The M6 cars have a drivetrain HP loss of 13% ... so ... it looks like your 599 HP E-Force SC is actually making 606 Net HP

(606 Net HP -13% = 527 RWHP)

Could you give an update on your car? How is the performance and drivability since the tune? Any other observations?

Thanks.

It's great! Fuel mileage is up and it's a lot stronger. Feels like it has a lot better part throttle response then before. I'll be going back to him after I make a few more changes.

Thanks for the update! Sounds like your tune really came out great.

I contacted Griffin tuning and setup an appointment for early August.

Going to install a set of Kooks headers and catted x-pipe in the meantime.

Awesome! Are you auto or manual? What size pulley are you running? I just got my nt05r's getting them installed in the morning. I'm kind of thinking I'd like to do headers, clutch, a set of id850's and a 3" pulley. Then go see him again.

My car is a 6-speed manual.

I had installed the 554 hp kit with the 3.85" pulley. The 554 hp kit uses the same tune as the 599 Hp kit so I ordered a BAP and the 3.5" pulley used in the 599 kit. When I did the supercharger install, I had also added a DeWitts radiator for added cooling. I definitely has helped

After that, I could tell that the stock clutch was slipping so I installed a 700 hp rated Monster LT1-S. With the warmer temps, my Super Sports are a lot grippier and so instead of them breaking loose the clutch was the weak link.

I then decided that a good set of headers would be in order so I have a set of Kooks arriving tomorrow.

Once I get the tune, I think that I will stop there as far as power goes.

Are you hooking up with your Super Sports in 2nd gear?

Ya .... Ok ....


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Isn't HP loss from drivetrain a constant using the stock HP rating.
436 HP (stock) X .13 (13% manual 6 sp.) = 56.68 HP loss whether you have mods or not as long as the drivetrain is the oem.
However, the HP loss driving a blower needs to be figured in.
Keeping in mind, type of blower Centri vs Roots? Pulley size and HB diameter? How is net HP accurately calculated?

I know. I say that now but in the back of my mind is LS9 cam, bigger injectors, etc. It does indeed never end as we cannot help our addiction.

Most of the time, yes. On good, flat, relatively new pavement, it easily breaks loose in 1st but 2nd usually does hook up. Although, I don't go full throttle very much. Still not used to the power. And even though the LT1-S clutch does not have a break-in period, I am still trying to go easy for the first 500 miles just in case.

Isn't HP loss from drivetrain a constant using the stock HP rating ?
For the C6 drivetrain, drivetrain parasitic loss is around 13% for the M6 and 15% for the A6 (with stock drivetrain parts). I guess these percents change slightly as crankshaft Net HP changes, but for all practical purposes, the 13% and 15% loss is ... "close enough for government work".

436 HP (stock) X .13 (13% manual 6 sp.) = 56.68 HP loss whether you have mods or not as long as the drivetrain is the oem ?
Sure, that would be for a stock OEM drivetrain

However, the HP loss driving a blower needs to be figured in ?
Don't need to figure out how much HP it is taking to drive the blower ... We are just concerned with the SAE corrected shaft HP (flywheel) the engine is producing. That's flywheel HP corrected to SAE J1349 standard atmospheric conditions.
BTW ... If a dyno is set up properly, the RWHP displayed will also be corrected to standard SAE J1349 conditions too.

Keeping in mind, type of blower Centri vs Roots? Pulley size and HB diameter? How is net HP accurately calculated ?
Figuring Net crankshaft HP can never be 100% accurate with data from just the dyno pull, but it's very close (as long a the actual dyno RWHP number was corrected to SAE J1349 standard) and then the 13% or 15% drivetrain HP loss is figured in ... Again, close enough.

BTW ... The SAE J1349 standard is sea level, atmospheric pressure of 29.23" Hg, 77 degrees F, and zero humidity

The SAE J1349 standard took the place of the old SAE J607 that used 60 degrees F and 29.92" Hg as the standard conditions

BTW ... I understand that the 436 RWHP that GM advertises for the C6 / LS3 with NPP has also been corrected to the new SAE J1349 standard when GM certified the engine on the engine dyno prior to production.

So, as long as your chassis dyno operator is also using the J1349 correction factor ... all you need to do is figure the 15% or 13% drivetrain loss ... and you at least have a very good before and after comparison to the advertised HP that the car had when new.

At least your comparing apples to apples pretty much ...

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Percentage based isn't accurate way to measure engine power once you start modding.

My car that makes 1100rwhp doesnt have a 15% loss. There are fixed losses and dynamic losses. The fixed loss doesn't change with engine HP, so as power goes up, the percent drops. So while 15% maybe accurate for a stock car, it maybe 12% or 10% on a modded higher HP car.

I've never seen anyone care about crank hp as much as corvette guys do, it's weird to me :rofl:

Dead on. Other than an engine dyno there is no way to accurately know the crank HP. And who really cares anyways.