How much to offer
 

Trying to come up with an offer on a 07 z06 that has been built to 900 ish rwhp. Basically car has 7000 miles.
built erl 427 block, trick flow heads ysi supercharger , secondary drive system, custom cam, ally meth system kooks headers , b&b exhaust. atomic force intake. 2 piece forge wheels. I know most clean cars in this range go for mid 30’s. Any help would be great.

Anywhere from $30-60k. Without details can't say much more than that. If that is all it has, it still needs $15-20k in parts to be a reliable nice car.

Very low 40s sounds fair mainly because of the miles on the car. Hard to judge anything else without more details.

What other details are you needing?
driveline wise it has the t56 I believe because it’s an 07. Has a triple carbon clutch from rps. Body in excellent condition. Never raced. Dual pump for fuel. That’s all he knows about the fuel system. I know it’s hard to price a car sight unseen just need a more narrow price range a car like this would normally sell for. If I had to guess he has put 30k into it based on what I have done to mine. 4000 miles on new engine. Any help is appreciated.

Suspension? Fuel system? Rear end? Axles? Etc etc etc.

Built motor consist of what? My new motor is $21k+ just for the short/block heads, or it could be a "built" motor for $4500 for a compstar cheapo combo. Out of box trickflow cheap ass heavy valve heads or done up nicely with Ti valves/etc? 8 rib or 10 rib drive? Intercooler/bov setup? Injectors? Cooling system, Etc etc etc. Like I said, could be $30k, or $50k+.

If he doesn't know exactly what is in it, sounds like buying someone elses nightmare, and be prepared to drop $10-20k into it to fix the left over issues and get it to a reliable level.

Mid $30's for a 900 rwhp Z with a built block ? That seems very low imo. I guess that depends on if it bhas been thrashed, condition of the body, interior etc. No way that can be mint and going for mid $30's, unless the seller is hard up for cash. As an example, I bought my 08 for $34 k , Sc'd , cammed etc etc etc. The body and interior are almost mint. Only issue I am taking care of is upgrading the cooling system ( new fan ) as it is extremely hot and humid here in FL, especially for a car with forced induction. If that car is in excellent shape and you can get it for mid $30's, sounds like a good deal. Btw, mine had only 22k miles on it . Good luck with your potential purchase. Post some pics if you can, would help OP's on here give you better opinions on the estimated value. Also are you getting receipts from the work that was done ?

Yes, which is why I had a huge range. If it is a cheap beat up salvage title with just a crap setup and no supporting mods, could be $30k. You aren't getting a nice 900+ car for that.

Mid to high 40's. Someone has put some serious money into that car and will laugh at a low offer.

Guy could need cash fast, never hurts to throw an offer out,some may get insulted . If you don't get a reply back, then their is your answer right there. Most the guy can say is "no thanks " , then you can counter it with a higher offer if you so choose.Keep in mind, not everyone looks at a built Z the same. Some will think " this has been beat on and tracked " , while others may say " i can buy one that is built already and I don't have to dump the $ into it" . You need to see it in person and drive it ultimately, and look for receipts and maybe bring it to a shop to do an inspection, leak down test etc etc. Good luck

BTW, if i have that money into a car and someone lowballs me then tries to come up, i won't sell it (i guess unless in a real pinch) because that person is probably a butthole (for offering so low to begin with) and will likely be hard to deal with.. i've done that before. Just FYI... if i want a car, i pay asking price or ask the seller for an asking price to not insult.

The “never raced” line made me literally lol 😂 don’t be naive man....one doesn’t build a 900whp corvette to drive slow in the fast lane and show off their sweet jean shorts and fresh white new balance kicks at the local corvette club meet....

Unreals price quotes are wide ranging but the only accurate estimate....lots of variables to consider, take his build which is what I’d consider a top line build...$60k isn’t gonna make any waves for him. I’ve got a moderate/medium street car build and had a guy ask about buying it the other day. Now I’m the worst type of dude to try and buy from since I’ve built what I want and there’s nothing out side a clean low miles C6 ZR1 I’d even entertain thinking about. So it’s gonna take that kinda of money to get me to even consider anything. I informed the guy who asked I don’t want to sell I’ve built exactly what I want but he pushed and pushed for a number so I gave him one lol

Said I wouldn’t bat an eye at anything under $50k and that might not even do it...probably more like $55k. Granted no way I get that if I’m just putting the car up for sale but even if I did somewhere in the 40’s is what it would probably bring.

never raced lol always makes me chuckle. Just know that keeping a 900whp vette up to par is an ongoing investment and is gonna cost you period. Just no way around that man...part of the game. Good luck with the hunt man!🇺🇸

When an engine is highly modified you should go into these deals assuming the engine is trash and needs to be replaced

Hell I probably couldn't get $55k for my car, and it HAS way way way more than these cars being talked about. Motor alone has $25k+ into it.

Most people building a 900 whp car are building it to " race " in my opinion.However, you can look at the amount of ZR1's ( basically production race cars ) out there that were bought brand new and hardly have 10k miles on them. But buying it and building it are 2 different things I guess.With that much HP and internal work done, I would have a reputable shop look it over thoroughly. A PPI is worth it in this situation

This is good advice and a must with a modified car. I did this with a specialty shop and they found a few minor things and provided a quote for the fixes. That helped with the price negotiations.

It was also a good test for the seller. He didnt hesitate to agree to this and I took that as a good sign that he wasn't trying to hide anything.

One additional thing to add to a PPI is to ask the shop to do a compression test. This wasn't included in the PPI where I went to. The car checked out, I bought it, then took it to my shop to fix the little things and retune it. They did a compression test while they had it and found three broken ringlands. It was a nightmare.

For emphasis

This is what I am saying. Even if you don't find low compression there are 99999 other things that can go wrong when assembling an engine.

The only kind of vehicle where I might add some value for the engine, or perhaps especially when to add value, is when it has mileage-carfax-verified service history on an original numbers matching motor. The kind of factory engine with 80-120k that you know will go 350k if taken care of properly.

Corvettes don't come with those kinds of engines. you only find them in like Silverado trucks, Denali, Escalade
So the most valuable engines are $300-$800
Here's one at 750rwhp:

And hes going for 850-1000rwhp with that cheap 4.8L 200,000 miles truck engine.
So it really pains me to see somebody put 10k worth of value on a ~600hp engine when 700hp engines are only $300-$1500~ to get a reliable one...

This is false...and kind of a reach.

Are those junkyard motors great and cheap YES...I have one in my turbo c6 z06.

But a ls3 with some opened up rings is just as strong of a motor it is just not as cheap. For every 1k whp sbe gen 4 5.3 car there is alot more that broke at 600. There are alot of benefits of going with the larger nicer motors rather then a junkyard 4.8/5.3 ect but that is not what this discussion is about.

I never said it wasn't strong. I only am suggesting (appropriately) that due to increased valve lift, fast camshaft ramp rates, that overall mileage is reduced. Most of the aftermarket valve springs which properly support high power N/A engines only last 20,000 miles. The engine is less likely to "high mileage" 300k

This isn't about power capability, its about reliability. Nowhere do I say anything about the engine itself being weaker or stronger in the mid section.