2016 Z06 Z07 A8 overheating
 

Hi all...new here but have been doing a lot of reading on the forums. Bought this car a little less than 2 months ago with 4k miles on it. The car is amazing and I love it...but not feeling so good now that I have had the same overheating issue that has happened to many others.

Took it for my first track day ever about a month or so ago...temp was low 60s. Didn't have any issues.

Yesterday, took it to another track and the car overheated (got errors, lost power, etc) at the end of the second 20 min session of the day. Temp was mid 70s or so. Allowed the car to cool for little more than 90 mins and then went out on the 3rd session of the day. I noticed problems right away and came back in after only two laps while letting all other cars pass. In short, I missed out on 3 of the 5 sessions for the day because of this. Very disappointed to say the least after just buying this and had other track days scheduled for next month.

When digging last night and today, I now realize this has been a well known issue for quite a while and I am late to the game. So had a few questions if anyone could help me out pls...

If this happens next time out, how would I at the track get it to get out of limp mode? On the way home, i still felt the issue. It feels almost like it has half the power that it did. Or do I simply not risk going to another until this is fixed? My next one scheduled is 5 hours away for two days at watkins.

What is the most economical way to remedy this or at least minimize it? I'm ok with upgrading something for improvements, but to HAVE to upgrade something to work as it was advertised and intended to do is another story and puts a real sour taste in my mouth. But, I need to weigh my options because it doesnt seem GM has done anything for this and the class action won't amount to much of anything if it ever even does come to a settlement. My other option is to sell the car which up until now I never thought I would say after owning for such a short period. It sucks really.

Its still under warranty but I dont think that will matter, although i do have a great relationship with the dealer that I bought it from, so thats a plus at least.

Thanks for reading and any further help would be appreciated. I did read through a lot but also still not sure in which direction I should go. It ultimately comes down to cost.

OP, I assume you found the threads by CF supporting vendors LG Motorsports and GSpeed, discussing their respective LT4 cooling solutions
(engine and/or transmission) ?

Sorry to hear about your heat issues... A manual completely solves this issue so unless you can’t drive a stick for health reasons I’d just sell and get that. By the time you fit one of the g speed stage zero kits you’re looking at like $5000. Did you try manually shifting and keeping rpm’s lower that way? Dewitts is working on something that will be easy to install in the factory auxiliary trans cooler location but I don’t think it’s out yet.

make sure the radiator is topped off and clear of obstructions, make sure AC is off or run heater to try draining the coolant to run higher % of distilled water vs antifreeze.

unhooking the battery should reset this but will need to reindex windows.

LG Motorsports solved my high IAT/limp mode, and loss of power on the track with my 2016 Z06/Z07/A8. Now all the haters will join in!! I was one of the early guys at VIR that could not track over 20 min without limp mod. Can't tell you how many senior members and track guys on this forum bashed my post. PM me so we can have a reasonable discussion on track with limp mode.
Marc
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...66bcab8633.jpg

Keep it in manual mode and short shift.

Why did they bash you? Was it the ol manual vs auto thing?

Glad there are fixes for the A8 guys :yesnod:

Yes, thank you, I have. I am just not sure if there is anything else out there and quite honestly I am looking to spend the least amount possible to fix this. It just kills me to think of spending money on something that I believe should work as is and its really disappointing that Chevy is not addressing this the way I feel they should.

Thanks...I can drive a stick and that is what I always preferred, but at this point I would prefer to have the auto and they are making them faster now. I did not try manually shifting, but I can next time. And ok thanks on Dewitts...will look into that.

Will do on the radiator and mixture ratio...a friend mentioned the same thing.

I did unhook the battery yesterday but it didn't solve the issue unfortunately. Its still messed up today after letting it sit for about 20 hours.

Thanks...just sounds expensive for something that should already work. But I may have to do that or similar, or sell it. I'll pm you also.

Also, is it correct to say that the 2017 and newer Z06 autos did not have this issue after they did a fix? May just consider getting one of those instead if that's the case.

No the autos all have issues, they just aren’t track cars unfortunately, Chevy really dropped the ball on these cars in the heat. but the 2019 autos have a thicker radiator so maybe you could try that out?

Unless your limp limp mode is related to supercharger coolant temps, which would mean air pockets in your supercharger coolant overflow tank.

OK, thanks. What is it that I should try to cool...engine oil, coolant or trans primarily? Or all the above?

I read about the air pockets too...how do I see if that is part of the problem?

Bill Dearborn has a write up on here about how it needs to be done to clear the bubbles.

try wrapping the exhaust from x pipe to mufflers with DEI exhaust wrap to help lower trans temps. In the heat the trans gets hot too.

Unfortunately for the auto cars there’s no cheap “fix” as the spot for the aux radiator Is used for your extra trans cooler.

the first thing you need to do is make sure your blower fluid tank has no air in it, check the threads about purging the blower fluid, there are plenty... once you get the air out of your tank, then give it another shot, you might get far enough that you no longer have a problem

Ok thanks

👍thank you

So the manuals do not have this issue at all? If thats the case, then I think I would have to choose between buying the manual after selling this one...or fixing the one I have.

Even with the factory cooling system working properly (no air bubbles) the autos put added stress on the system by holding the engine at higher RPM's and load and without the additional 'belly cooler/radiator' it just can't keep up. Some drivers never find this an issue, you clearly have. Listen to 360Lemans he knows what he's talking about. You can spend the $5K to fix it if you like the auto. Or, get a 2017 manual with the improved cooling brick and add the belly cooler if it doesn't already have one.

Dewitts has a system I believe. Saw a thread about changing out the factory oil cooler and added raditaor cooling capacity. ..I also believe it has nothing to do with cutting holes in the fascia.

I also recall a guy changing the oil cooler and or trans cooler to one of the rear quarter panels with AN fittings etc might have had a fan on it iirc? It was a modified Z06 auto and the guy lived in Texas. Would run hot not overheat, in traffic in 100f plus

I've thought of similar "fixes".. by moving the trans cooler you could put a secondary or auxillary radiator in the same place as the M7 cars I believe.

In other words, people have pulled it off.

And like others have said plenty run the car a 9/10ths in M mode and letting the torque lull you around and have avoided the overheat issue.

Lastly octane. Make sure you're using either 100 octane or some form of a booster in every tank when tracking.

The auto is the faster car, so you may as well keep it, and upgrade it.