Cam shaft help pls
 

I have just purchased a 73, I bought it without hearing it running as battery was flat and the carby poured out petrol when turned over, so I did what everybody says you should not do and bought it.

The PO told me the motor has been rebuilt and have receipts for the build, but I am learning more and more by the day, so this is what I know. The heads have been ported with new valves and a Crane Cam kit
installed as per sheet. It also has a PETER JACKSON DUAL IDLER which has to go, oh the noise.

The transmission has been kitted with as per receipt "SUPER LAUNCH CONVERSION, R&R T400& FULLY REBUILT WITH MANUAL PACK, PLUS HIGH STALL CONVERTER"

I will be pulling the motor and transmission to replace the timing gear and get the manual pack removed converter changed.

My question is, the cam that is installed is it usable for driving around or do I need to change this as well while the motor is out. Easier to do at the same time.

I know very little about which cam is best, so your advice is much appreciated.

Andy

Cams are very personal choice except when so mismatched with intended usage. I would not consider a cam with a powerband from 3000-6000 rpm for "driving around". It is a cam for drag racing down a track.
Depending on how high the stall is on that "HIGH STALL CONVERTER" it might be tolerable but you will reving the motor every time to get it going................................... ............kinda like a 4 cyl ricer

:iagree:
OP
next time, post specs that don't require download

crane 302H Fireball2 HFT
0.050 228*/228* , .480/.480, icl 107, ecl 117, lsa 112

Hope your motor has great compression
Suggest you keep the hi-stall converter

-edit-
also ... expect Low manifold vacuum (idle quality, headlamps. wiper door, power brakes)

If you do not like the converter and the shift kit, you will not like the cam either.

It would be nice to know the compression ratio you have. That would be rather important going forward as you make the changes.

OP

also, you say you have receipts and have motor there with you.

If you can tell us exactly which heads you have (brand, casting number & part number) AND
exactly which pistons you have (brand, part number).

With above info, we can make an approximation of what your compression ratio is ... an approximation.

Going forward, having an approximate CR in hand will be helpful to you; maybe choose another cam.

Guys that cam is not much more than a stock l82. 222/222. Vs. 228/228. I had a higher duration crane cam in my 350 79 for many years before moving up to a 383 solid roller motor.

The tranny kit is just a valve body that allows for positive manual shift and it is also still automatic. The stall might make it more fun to drive. Unless it really is the full manual only

The gear drive cam timing set can be R&R right in the car. I've done vette cam changes with the motor in the car

^^^THIS^^^ :iagree:
That cam isn't that large for the street, mine is much larger and drives just fine on the street. IMO, that cam isn't a concern, but the Jackson gear drive is another story. IMO, that drive is a royal PITA for the street because of the noise. For a track car it would be no big deal. Not sure like mentioned if the trans is a FULL manual which on the street for me would be a PITA and wouldn't have it, but others would be OK with it, it's your choice. The TC is another choice which should be based on your engine and what you want to do with it that would work out the best for the type of driving you are going to do. I run a Yank 9.5" SS3200 with no issues on the street and drives like a stock TC until you hit the loud peddle and plan on moving up to a SS3600 before this winter at the track. Have fun with your vette no matter which way you decide to go with it. :thumbs:

gkull is correct. The two tasks you want to accomplish are done by removing two covers. Trans Pan & Timing Cover. No need to pull the engine.

I had a similar cam that made about 350 crank HP. I would keep the cam and fix everything else.

you want to see how driveable it is? drive it. let the idler gear make noise. pull out of lights like you are in an accord. or a Bristol Blenheim or whatever you have down there for cars. do not replace something you do not know how much you hate.

I have a TH400 and 4,000 stall in my 98 Firebird. Actually cruising around the neighborhoods and speeds under 40 mph, it has surprisingly good drive-ability. The only thing about it I truly don't like is at highway speeds it spins the engine too high. And a high rpm stall like that multiplies the torque, so getting traction with street tires is tough. They really are meant to be used with slicks.