Sound deadening mat
Has anybody put in the sound deading mat in back and if so does it work?
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I did my doors and everything behind the seats, rear bulkhead and all of the cargo space and both sides up to the side windows with two boxes of Dynamat. I was not only trying to cut down noise but also the heat transfer from under the cargo area. It did drop the db's down about 6 to 8 decibels (also installed the heavy Lloyd's Carpet front and rear) and slowed down the heat transfer on long road trips. It's a lot of work, especially doing the doors (inside and out); you'll have to pull everything out of the car, seats, console and all the carpet....somewhere on this forum I have a thread with pics doing the rear cargo area and bulkhead. As I recall, it was an all day job doing the rear and another day doing the doors.
Bottom line, it was worth it to me, very noticeable when jumping from once C7 to another. Now if you want to improve the ride along with cutting the noise level, lets talk Non-Run Flats. |
Tried the Blockit mat...no difference. Then bought the Extreme kit from Crazy Cowboy and installed it myself....huge difference!
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I have the Blockit mats and they work a little bit. But surprisingly what worked best was the suction cup shade for my transparent top. Must keep the sound from bouncing off. And the suction cup shade is well insulated.
But if you really want to get into it The Cowboy system from what I have read makes a significant difference. |
Originally Posted by hisvett
(Post 1599743597)
I did my doors and everything behind the seats, rear bulkhead and all of the cargo space and both sides up to the side windows with two boxes of Dynamat. I was not only trying to cut down noise but also the heat transfer from under the cargo area. It did drop the db's down about 6 to 8 decibels (also installed the heavy Lloyd's Carpet front and rear) and slowed down the heat transfer on long road trips. It's a lot of work, especially doing the doors (inside and out); you'll have to pull everything out of the car, seats, console and all the carpet....somewhere on this forum I have a thread with pics doing the rear cargo area and bulkhead. As I recall, it was an all day job doing the rear and another day doing the doors.
Bottom line, it was worth it to me, very noticeable when jumping from once C7 to another. Now if you want to improve the ride along with cutting the noise level, lets talk Non-Run Flats. |
Yeah, I agree... Block-It did nothing I could discern. I suspect, in part, it is because it doesn't cover the main areas of noise transmission.
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Originally Posted by hisvett
(Post 1599743597)
I did my doors and everything behind the seats, rear bulkhead and all of the cargo space and both sides up to the side windows with two boxes of Dynamat. I was not only trying to cut down noise but also the heat transfer from under the cargo area. It did drop the db's down about 6 to 8 decibels (also installed the heavy Lloyd's Carpet front and rear) and slowed down the heat transfer on long road trips. It's a lot of work, especially doing the doors (inside and out); you'll have to pull everything out of the car, seats, console and all the carpet....somewhere on this forum I have a thread with pics doing the rear cargo area and bulkhead. As I recall, it was an all day job doing the rear and another day doing the doors.
Bottom line, it was worth it to me, very noticeable when jumping from once C7 to another. Now if you want to improve the ride along with cutting the noise level, lets talk Non-Run Flats.
Originally Posted by Avanti
(Post 1599744135)
Yeah, I agree... Block-It did nothing I could discern. I suspect, in part, it is because it doesn't cover the main areas of noise transmission.
The aluminum panels, wheel wells, doors all have to get noise insulation materials. The aluminum panels behind the seats an torque tube are key NOT just the rear flat area! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2a6b0297a3.jpg |
I will tell you first hand that the Crazy Cowboy system that I had done 1 week ago is the equivalent of doubling my amp size ( based on needed volume level per output) gone is the radiating heat down there when I ride her hard. And while it is not always a good thing ( "honey the speed limit here is .....") I can actually have a conversation with the wife over the road noise with those big ass "meats" on there.Also voice commands are more accurate when windows are rolled down
Super cool guy .... Best bang per buck mod this side of the Soler TB!! Happy to discuss off line for any detailed questions !! |
Just received the double extreme from Dan "Crazy Cowboy" last week, I had a couple of questions and he returned my texts and phone calls VERY quickly.I am having it installed in my 2015 Z-51, next week at local stereo shop here in Grants Pass, Oregon, I will let you know how it turns out.
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Originally Posted by bbrown450
(Post 1599744459)
I will tell you first hand that the Crazy Cowboy system that I had done 1 week ago is the equivalent of doubling my amp size ( based on needed volume level per output) gone is the radiating heat down there when I ride her hard. And while it is not always a good thing ( "honey the speed limit here is .....") I can actually have a conversation with the wife over the road noise with those big ass "meats" on there.Also voice commands are more accurate when windows are rolled down
Super cool guy .... Best bang per buck mod this side of the Soler TB!! Happy to discuss off line for any detailed questions !! |
For those of you who had Cowboy install his double extreme kit how much was the total cost?
How much was the kit? And how much did he charge for labor? And how long did he take to do the install? . |
I am having a local (Oregon) audio company install my double extreme . I tried over and over to convince "crazy cowboy" Dan to leave hot and humid Florida and come to the Northwest , but no luck. He is outstanding in regards to his responses, I would imagine his installations are top notch also, he has nothing but great reviews on this forum
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I've installed Crazy Cowboy's extreme kit in both our C7s. I measured the results with a professional dB meter. It works really well. And the Crazy Cowboy kit included a bit more product to cover the areas I felt needed a bit of extra on the first install on our '15. Bottom line for me is there is no shortcut to get it done correctly - requires a bit of work, but it's not that bad. In fact, it's quite fun and you'll get to know your car better too.
Here's a link to a thread I put together after the first install, including commentary on how the measurements were done before and after. The second install in our '17 went without a hitch. The CC kit is definitely worth it IMO. Have fun! https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...surements.html |
Originally Posted by JerryU
(Post 1599744453)
From many posts on reducing noise, if you're going to do it, go all the way!
The aluminum panels, wheel wells, doors all have to get noise insulation materials. The aluminum panels behind the seats an torque tube are key NOT just the rear flat area! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2a6b0297a3.jpg |
Originally Posted by joemessman
(Post 1599743741)
In regard to the non run flats. I tried non run flats Michelin brand and there wasn't any noise difference between the A/S 3 plus all season. ZP and non runflats exhibited the same road noise. My guess is that if you change to a non run flat that isn't a Michelin?
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I installed the Block-it in my 2017 Z06 a slight difference!
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