Mild Cam Suggestions for LS2 M6
 

I'm trying to decided on an aftermarket cam for my 2006 M6 LS2 with 3.42 gears and I need some advice on a cam that will make good power in the lower-mid RPMs since I don't want a cam that needs to be wound out to 7000 RPM to use the power. I would like to be shifting around 6500-6600 or the recommended safest RPM for the LS2 stock bottom end. I do want a nice lumpy idle out of it so I want to stick to lower LSAs. I'm not into drag racing the car, but I do a lot of spirited pulls while I'm out and about. I do plan to autocross the car maybe once or twice a year as well. The car has 52,000 miles on it. No plans on boost, want to keep the car to be pretty reliable with a little extra power and some sweet sounds.

Mods are currently: TSP 1 7/8 headers, TSP X-pipe, Vararam CAI, and stock 3.42 gears. Might do heads and possibly FAST, but that wont be for along time.

Stuck on the cam decision, but narrowed it down to a few cams:

BTR LS1/LS2 STAGE 3 NA CAMSHAFT
-Specs: 231/242 .617"/.592" 112+2

BTR Ls1/LS2 STAGE 2 NA CAMSHAFT
-Specs: 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2

Tick Performance "SNS" torqueMAX Stage 2 V2 Camshaft for LS2 Engines
-Standard Lobes: 231/235 | .625"/.605" | LSA111+2

TSP 228R 112 LSA Camshaft

TSP Torquer V2
-232/234.600"/.600" 112 LSA

I talked to BTR and they told me to run their Stage 3 cam, but I feel it might want to be revved out to 7k. Tick just said their TorqueMax v2 wasn't much different than the BTR Stage 2. I've never owned a cammed car before and while a huge cam does bring some excitement, I feel like it would get annoying after the initial joy went away. I'm leaning towards the Tick TorqueMax 231/235 .625"/.605 and the TSP Torquer 232/234.600"/.600" but not sure how all of these different lifts play into the choice of a cam. The 228R seems like a proven cam for all around power too but maybe too mild for what I want?

Any cam I choose with have supporting parts such as: C5-R Timing Chain, Brass Trunion Kit, Melling high volume oil pump, BTR .660 dual springs w/ steal retainers, hardened push rods, Powerbond SFI Balancer.

There are quite a few LS2 guys that have used the famous spinmonster cam which was designed for the LS3.

Its 230/234 .613 .598 114+2.

I just ordered it from Texas Speed and Performance and using their lobes it was 230/234 .615 .600 114+2.

This is conflicting logic. IF you want a lopey cam, you are going to sacrifice low end torque, that's just the way the blowby works at lower speeds (overlap). The reason the cam will 'lope' is the overlap is high, and doesn't even out until you get further into the RPM Band. I suggest, you forget about the sound of the cam, and focus on the utilization, which you seem to have written out pretty well. IMO the Stage 3 cams seem to be too big for your application. I might suggest the TSP228 or the Torquer V2, but, all of these are *not* smaller cams, which, more fits the way you want to drive moreso than these bigger style cams. Sorry I can't be of more specific help however this is the limit of my knowledge in this regard.

For reference, here is a cam spectrum chart originally posted on ls1tech. Although for the 5.7, and would have to be adjusted down for the 6.0, gives you an idea of the sizes of cams. I think you are overshooting.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1d7643dae0.jpg

If you want to keep it as a nice driver, you’re further ahead to slightly under cam than slightly over cam. I’m thinking a 224r. I used one in a LS1 and loved it. Made great bottom end and a very nice bump on top. Still allows use of beehive springs too.

Given the OPs goal of low to mid-range power I would suggest the
Cam Motion LS1/2 Titan 3 which is 224*/228* 113*+4 .603"/.595" or
Cam Motion Titan 4 227*/232* 113*+4 .612"/.595"
Both of those Cams will drive very well with a good tune for a daily driver.

I like the Texas Speed Spinmonster as the largest Daily Driveable Cam for the
Driver who wants to focus on Mid and especially upper RPM power.

You will always be happier with a cam one step smaller for a street driver
VS 1 step larger.

The lope comes from a very good tune and a low ~550 RPM idle .
Choose the proper cam for goals and application and tune accordingly.
My .02
Good Luck

The BTR stage 2 is the only one listed above that I'd even consider....and it's too big for what you're wanting. As stated above, "sound or how much a cam lopes" is about the worst criterion for a cam choice. In your shoes, I'd look for something like a 226/230 114+3. Lift around .600 on both sides. Or better yet, have Pat G spec you a custom cam to fit what you're trying to do. You can get a little meaner idle in a mild cam with a narrower LSA, but you give top end. Something like that may lay over at 5500 rpm.

I have an LS2 m6 with 3.42's, Z06 exhaust to Corsa cat back, Fast 102, and a tune. A couple months ago I had a BTR Stage II cam package installed along with a 25% under drive balancer, CHE trunion upgrade, ported throttle body, upgraded oil pump, timing chain and ignition wires. (Bilsteins and anti venom mod also). I believe that the BTR Stage II would be right up your alley. The car drives very similar to stock. You can drive it through a parking lot without bucking or surging. Your can put the car in 5th gear at 45 mph and drive around without issue. It idles with no issues. However there is a definite lope, no doubt. When you're stopped the car does do a bit of a 'shimmy' though nothing that is annoying. Importantly when you hit the GO peddle the car pulls hard through out the power band. Really hard IMO. I know dynos are not the end all but I came out with 455/435 rear wheel HP. This, in my experience, is a great cam for drive ability with major attitude when you want it. I'm really happy with it and I think if I went bigger it would have gotten to be a PIA for me. Again, just my 2 cents. Good luck.

That's what I was interested in originally but figured the cams that specify torque in their names would lean more towards the torquey side. Those are nice numbers, especially the torque. What RPM does the car like to be shifted at when WOT?

Whats the benefits of lifts that are similar in height 600/600 vs something like the BTR 2 that is 614/576?
The other poster recommended a Titan 3 or 4. The 4 is pretty similar to the BTR 2 but seems they brought the lifts closer together at 227*/232* 113*+4 .612"/.595". Would you recommend this over the BTR 2?

If experience counts & mor power is in this is the must powerful cam in the line up...

TSP Torquer V2 Specs: 232/234.600"/.600" 112 LSA

Having said that all the listed cams will make good power and sound good the first been the mildest.

i have a nice understanding of cam theory, but i am no expert and would defer technical comparison questions to those who are professionals or have more real world experience with those cams. i did much research and read or watched many reviews. my experience is as described. the car remains a pleasure to drive (more so) and yet has plenty of balls when you ask for it- low end or high. i see some people say get the stage 3 because if you get the stage 2 you will want more. true, i would love more, but i would probably not enjoy MY driving experience as much. IMO if i went bigger it would be to radical for what i wanted, which was as much power as possible while maintaining near stock drive ability. I don't know how to answer your question as to shift points at WOT. I've not hit a flat spot on the curve. It shifts great wherever you want it to shift. again, good luck.

The cam I suggested isn't going to make the power the BTR 2 will make. Probably 10 or 15 hp less. A lot of the cam guru's shorten the valve lift on the exhaust side to help with low end power a bit. I'd rather keep the lift up the on the exhaust side and decrease duration a bit on that side. That helps keep overlap lower. The amount of overlap your cam has will dictate how well your Vette will behave on the streets. I'd MUCH rather have a cam that is capable of perfect street manners vs one that makes a little more at the top end and exhibits less than perfect manners.

That's a personal preference thing though. You may be fine with more shake and crappier fuel eco. The cam I suggested has 0 overlap. My current 2013 C6 also has a 0 overlap cam. 226/234 115+4. Perfect manners and excellent fuel eco on the highway. Not too bad in town either.

I've had the TxSpeed Torquer 2 in an LS3. The thing had plenty of buck, shake, and surge. Impressed the hell out of the car show crowd. Couldn't wait to get rid of it. I replaced it with a 226/234 114+2 and made similar HP as the T2. Torque was down though. TxSpeed named that cam well. It also peaked at 5800 rpm where the 226/234 peaked at 6300.

Love my Texas speed 224r

Nice

This graph is from the 224r cam on my 2005 LS2 automatic. Car has full bolt ons and all s still on stock stall converter.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c7d37b208.jpeg

Impressive, that is really good, like 514 bhp 494 btq!

What is the LSA on your 224r ?

That's a bit of a stretch. Actually, that's a whole lot of a stretch. Tx Speed claims that cam is good for a little over 30 hp vs the stock cam. The OP can go bigger without big cam issues. Just sayin'.

It's all about the combination. :cheers: Fyi I used a drivetrain loss ratio of 0.815, not far off from tested Automatics...

Plus, talk about low end tq!

So, an LS2 engine with that cam and LT headers is going to outrun an LS7 equipped Z06? A stock LS7 is going to run circles around that rig torque wise and hp wise. Won't even be in the same neighborhood. Your numbers aren't even close.

I disagree.

You're talking about 6.0 liters, which can achieve 100 bhp/liter at the very top end. 500+ bhp is hardly scraping the barrel. :smash: 425 rwhp is approx 500 bhp...and can be EASILY achieved with LS2's, *without* going with a 'big' cam lol.

Modified LS7s can EASILY run 600+ bhp, however, so, NOT a fair comparison. Remember, a *stock* LS7 is drastically undertuned from the factory...