Parking brake and Tension at cable?
 

Good afternoon,
Have been working on parking brake for quite a while this summer.I have installed all new hardware,front and back cables. So far ,no luck adjusting them and getting them to hold. Without the e-brake holding there will be no inspection sticker here in Ma. I have read some posts on setting the cable to a certain tension using a fish scale. Can someone explain to me how exactly that procedure is done? In other words where do I hook up the scale? I am sure once explained I will hang my head but just can wrap my head around it. Just want to get the old girl on the road and enjoy before winter.

Thanks in advance.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...a8fed6720d.jpg

Have you adjusted the parking brake shoes first? That is normally where I start before I get into the cable.

Yes, I have adjusted until can't turn rotors and then backed off about 5 clicks. I can get the brakes to hold the tires while they are up in the air. Have done procedure to burnish them (think it worked). Have had shoes tight to the point I can ear them rubbing, tight to the point when I lifted the car after trying to burnish I could barely move rotors by hand. I am missing something or maybe an issue with the rebuild.

OK, so the parking brakes shoes are adjusted properly then the next step is to adjust the rear cable at the center adjuster.
The parking brake handle is fully down or 2 clicks up, I forget exactly.

I have used the up 2 clicks method.......

OK, that's good. if the equalizer cable is adjusted properly then the brakes should hold with the handle up 14 clicks.

That's what I am shooting for, Tomorrow I will adjust shoes to where I can't turn by hand and back off 8 clicks. At this point they should turn by hand. Then I will put handle up 2 clicks and adjust cable to where the rotors have slight drag. Then pull handle up to 14 or so clicks and thinking I should not be able to turn rotors even with large bar for leverage. If this is the case I will try burnish again and see what happens. Do you see any flaws with my thinking?

Your plan sounds good.
If was my car I'd pull the caliper and rotor just to be sure all the parts are installed correctly.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...afb4437b18.jpg
Check the adjusters as they are left & right.

Also, is the ball at the end of the equalizer attached to the actuating lever correctly?

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c16037241.jpeg


You'll be a happy camper tomorrow.

Peterbulit, Thanks for the pics. I will pull the rotors and check things out first. I will let you know how it goes just in case I have further questions. Thanks for the help.

Hi,

I can tell you that the way to get your parking brake to hold is as follows (this is what worked for me). Adjust the brake shoes so you can just get at most a quarter to a half a turn with the tire on. I know that seems like it is tight (forget the tight and back off 5 clicks). Take the car out around the block several times. Mind you, don't lock the pads when you adjust them but no more than 1/4 - 1/2 turn when giving it all you mite. Not sure how much you know or remember about drum brakes (that is what the parking brakes are) but back in the day you use to get your drums cut and your brake shoes contoured. Try to get your parking brakes contoured to the drums today. There's not many machine shops who would know what your talking about. Anyway, the reality of what you're doing as I've described, as you drive with the brake shoes as tight as I've described, you knock the high points off the shoes and rather quickly. Yes the drum will get hot and may slightly smell but after doing this you will have a parking brake that holds. Note, after this make sure that when pulling the parking brake handle really tight you only get ~8 to no more than 11 clicks. All I can say is this worked for me, I'm in MA and pass inspection every year since I adjusted my brake this way and it holds. Many will tell you this is wrong, but believe it or not it works. Good luck, Russ

Thanks Ross, love this forum.

Looks like you are on the right track. Just follow the advice above.

I just fought with this as I have a short driveway with a 40 degree upward slope. Adjusted brakes as you have but still could not get it to hold for crap. Added a spacer as shown to lengthen the adjustment available. Even that did not hold until I drove it at 50mph and pulled up 10 clicks on the parking brake. After I got home it finally held.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...88d8d860bc.jpg

Update....the e-brake now holds on an incline...but won't hold when car is in gear. Going to tighten the cable a bit more. If I remember right that is how they will check at the inspection station. Put car in gear with e-brake on and goose it a bit. Well, getting closer I guess......

Update2......The car will hold in reverse giving it some gas until a point. Thinking maybe that is how they test it. Car in reverse and give it some gas. It has been a while always got sticker even with e-brake not working. Now Ma has cameras in the inspection bays. Can anyone confirm how they test e-brake?

Hi,

It's now longer referred to as an emergency brake but is now known as a parking brake. The terminology of an emergency brake stopped long ago. I double checked my 73 owners manual at it only refers to the parking brake. No mention of an emergency brake. So, don't over think it. If the parking brake now holds that's all you can ask for (in neutral). If you're that worried PM me and I'll give you a good honest inspection station in Northborough to bring your car to for inspection. Good luck. Russ

Ross...pm sent