While running all error codes come on
 

While running all era codes come on if I shut the car off it won't start again.
I've included a video.

Your battery is dead and your alternator may be bad. Low or inaccurate voltage does wired things in these cars. I would check both.

I can't see the video. But a low battery has been known to make all the lights come on as the voltage gets low.

I agree with both guys above. I just swapped injectors on Christmas day- there was about a 3 week downtime for the car. With fresh injectors installed I found that the doors would open but engine wouldn't spin- dead battery. I threw a quick charge on it and got it fired up. However, it ran like crap as if 1 or 2 cylinders were dead and a bunch of the service warnings came on. I was trying to figure out how my fresh injectors could be bad. I disconnected the battery and trickle charged it for 2-3 hours before bedtime, resuming that for another 2-3 hours the next morning. Then I fired it up and it ran fine.

The battery disconnect will typically reset/erase the warnings and it did in this case. I'll usually leave it disconnected overnight but a few minutes may be enough. If those persist you may have something else going on. Good luck.

Silverthorne, welcome to the forum, I agree that your battery may be the culprit here

I have changed the battery 2, 3 times. I have tried the disconnection, thing several times and tried using a battery charger stolen make sure lit was at full voltage and have tested the battery with a voltmeter.

Have you checked the grounds to make sure they're clean and solid? If you're not sure where to find them, I think I have 1 or 2 threads bookmarked from here that will show you.

Did you actually change the battery 2 or 3 times or did you mean you "charged" the battery 2 or 3 times?

Also, checking the battery with a volt meter won't tell you as much as a load test will, but if you do use a volt meter, you need to wait for about an hour after your battery charge session is done to check it. If all you have is a volt meter, I'd also measure voltage after the car sits overnight. If the voltage is significantly lower than it was when you tested it an hour after charging, either you have a current draw problem or the battery is bad.

I'll bet whomever you stole the battery charger from is going to be pissed. :D Ok, seriously...when the ignition is on, but the engine is not running, the engine controls are not "thinking" the engine is running.

As for many of the warning lights on when the ign. is on, but the engine is off: in some cases that's normal. For example, if you turn the ign. on but don't start the engine, the MIL (check engine light) will come on and stay on. There are other warning lights that stay on if the ign. is on, but the engine is not running.

The quality of that video is so bad I cannot clearly see any of what's on your IP but I heard you talking, The electric motor sound you hear just for a split-second is the starter cranking the engine. I cannot identify other electric noise I hear for a short period after the starter.

The text you see on the DLC..."service antilock brakes" and "service fuel system" are either actual faults with those systems or are spurious warnings caused by battery problems.

So...here's what I'd do:

I, also, heard you say the low fuel warning was displayed on the DLC. If the car is truly low on fuel, find yourself a big gas can and put five gallons of gas in the car.

Next: disconnect the battery and inspect its connections. If any corrosion is present, clean the battery posts and the battery cable ends. Reinstall the battery cables and charge the battery overnight. The next day, attempt to start the engine. If the same characteristics are present, pull the battery and have it load tested. If it fails the test, replace it. If the battery is five or more years old, replace it. When you reinstall the battery, make sure the battery connections are properly tightened.

Try starting the engine. If the same thing happens, again, get the car up in the air and inspect the connections on the other end of each battery cable. If you find them loose or corroded, repair as necessary. Also, inspect the engine controls ground. If corroded or lose, repair as necessary.

You didn't say what year the car is, so check any fuseable links related to the starting system which are on the model year of your car.

Finally, try starting the engine.

Please report back to this thread.