Yank SS3200 vs SS3600
 

I've about decided that my first major mod will be a converter. Car is a 2011 GS A6 with 14k miles that is stock other than a Vararam and tune. Future mods could be one of the following: 1. nothing else 2. mild cam only + headers or 3. a simple A&A Si w/3.8 pulley. I've had a Yank SS3600 in a previous 2000 Camaro SS and loved it. This car is mostly a cruiser that I'd like to be able to drive anywhere. But I do have an interest in an occasional trip down the drag strip. I realize a set of DR's mounted on an extra set of rear wheels is likely a good idea. Hayden 679 delivered today and will be installed soon.

I've tried to call Dave at Yank but have been unsuccessful reaching him on the phone. I Email them and Matt responded and steered me toward the SS3200 for my mostly street car desires. He also said that it would work well in the even that I went with a centri SC. But something is still pulling me toward the SS3600. How much more streetable is the SS3200 with street tires vs the SS3600? I've read that some folks have said that the autos should have come stock with a SS3200 so it seems like I can't go wrong with at least doing that.

I'm very DIY but not too excited about this job and spoke with a local shop about installing it for $750 so I'd like to "choose wisely".

I could use some help deciding which to get.

Can't get hold of Yank ...

Get up with Circle D. Excellent converter (and they answer there phone).

https://www.circledspecialties.com/g...ze=6&orderBy=5

I've read good things about them too. Ill check them out but I had a Yank in a previous car and loved it.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...converter.html

There is a forum member selling one, sounds like a pretty good deal.

Thanks for the response. I spoke with seller of that SS3200 a few days ago. I'm trying not the let the slight price difference be an influencer on this decision.

Never used a Cicle D, but I'm sure they make a good product. That said, cant go wrong with a Yank!! I've had a 3200 Yank since 2005, in a C5, with a built LS7 doing its best to ruin it!!!! Still Yanking fine, 17 years, 65,000 miles later........

I'd go with the ss3600 all day long. Unless you want to go FI in the future, then I would go with the pas3400.

I've had both. ss3600 was awesome for cruising with just a bolt-on car and worked well at track from just bolt-ons going 1.5 sixty foots, to head/cam/nitrous going low 1.3 sixty foots. Then I went with a procharger and the pas3400 and it has been 1.2 sixty foot, the pas3400 drives great too.

I could write a book, but for simplicity I'll just be brief.
The 3200 was a good improvement over stock (and drove like stock) for the 1 year and 16K I used it.
The 3600 was a big improvement over the 3200 and drove only slightly different than the 3200 for 3 years and 40K.
The 4000 was a huge improvement over the 3200, but drove more different than the 3600 for 5+ years and 45K.
Because I was continuously making changes in mods and tunes, listing 60' and 1/4 times doesn't help here.
Considering your immediate and possible future goals, I'd highly recommend the 3600. You won't be disappointed.

If you have no help to DIY, the $750 is a deal. Even though I'd done it a few times, it still took 6 hrs with a friend.
Then again, we were both in our '70's at the time. :ack:
PS. Overfill by about 3/4 qt. to avoid cavitation and nose over on the launch.

I really appreciate the responses. Being that I may never bring myself to spend the money on FI, you guys are confirming that the SS3600 is probably what I need to go with.

That is quite an impressive amount of time with the same converter.

Wow, that is some impressive history. Is the PAS tighter and would therefor flash lower in a lower HP car? Did you ever run the SS3600 with the Procharger? If so, how was it different when you swapped to the PAS?

I was hoping you would put your 2cents in on this. I've come across your impressions of the differences on these converters before and I appreciate you bringing it into this thread to help with my decision. I too thought $750 is a deal. They are a well versed high performance shop. They dyno-tuned my previous 2000 Camaro and I was very happy with that experience. The local transmission shop quoted me $1000-1100. I considered the swap myself but I feel it's a bigger job than I want to tackle.

Thanks for the tip on overfilling by 3/4 qt. What does "nose over on the launch" refer to? Staging?

Yank is the only converter I can recommend or will use. The more torque an engine makes the higher the stall. Forced induction blower motors at low RPM may push a 3200 to higher stall than a 3600 in a turbo application. They size the stall to suite the engine mods though, so if you TELL them you have a blower your 3200 will likely be tighter than if you told them you have a turbo or something centrifugal power adder.

Thanks, that makes sense about the engine vs stall speed.

Are you saying that a Yank SS3200 C6 may not have the same tightness as another Yank SS3200 C6 converter because they are differently due to a customers specs?

Nose over, is when you get a strong launch where the nose of the car goes up, but then comes down hard, because it doesn't have enough torque to sustain the nose up attitude. The problem with the A6 is that the fluid rushes to the rear of the pan (no baffles to counteract a sudden surge) and temporarily starves the pickup, which in turn leaves less fluid in the converter. The extra roughly 3/4 qt. overcomes the deficiency. If you scan your passes, it's easier to see the results than to feel them in real time.
I'd suggest buying HP Tuners and install your current tune on your laptop or dedicated notebook. Make a few scanned passes at the track to show your tuner before you do the new stall. Then copy the new tune where he adds the trans portion. You can then learn the differences and can tweak the tune yourself at home or at the track related to your timeslips and the DA of the times you ran.

I'm not a converter builder but yes from what I understand there is alot more to a converter than just it's single defining characteristic stall speed. The turbine pitch for example. Something with the stator. Maybe the distance or size of some of the parts. Just ask one of the reputable converter shops or do a search. I'm certain if you buy a 3200 converter spec'd for a big block nitrous dragger than it wont be a 3200 behind a small block.

I appreciate the explanation Tom. It's funny that you keep mentioning HP tuners. I met up with my friend that does tuning and had him make a few changes to my low throttle shift mphs. I mentioned to him about getting HP tuners so I could learn to make some of these minor changes. He encouraged me to do so.

That certainly does make sense too.

I never ran the ss3600 with the blower. But yes, the pas3400 is tight until you put a bunch of power to it. It'll flash to a lil over 5k with over 900rwhp.

And yes, swap converter, get fluid level correct and then add an extra quart.

How was the 4000 stall
 

don’t mean to hijack the thread, but I can’t send personal messages because I’m so new to the forums

I just bought a FTI 4000 stall for my 08 c6 base, I have a 229/244 cam, lsx fast hi ram, kn cold air, long tubes with catless x pipe. Stock gears, and I’m also running 305/35/19 super sports how do you think the 4000 will do?

ill answer this lol your going to need a stickey Mickey tire or else that 4000 stall and big cam is gonna blow threw those tires lol

roger that 🫡 looks like I’ll need to open up the checkbook again. Thank you for the reply

After 2 months of owning the A6 GS and weeks of converter consideration, I've finally ordered a converter. I had a great conversation with Dave at Yank today and have ordered a PAS3400. He said it will still be great if I don't do a centri SC. Lead time is 3-4 weeks.

This! When I bought mine way back in '04, Yank advertised something called stall ratio. IIRC, the higher the stall ratio, the "tighter" the converter. So, knowing I was going with a 600hp N/A 427, I got the one with the higher ratio. Ive never been sorry........