d1x install and tuning
 

finally getting my d1x going lots to do. updating to the A&A accessory drive with the 10 % od innovators west balancer

looking to do 2 tunes A pump gas with maybe 6500 rev limit, and an e85 tune with 7400 limit

I'll pulley to make max boost at 7500 or so

I've got 127 fic injectors but might need to go a bit bigger for the e85 tune to get 850 at tire

fuel system is sized to support that (big a&a 1200 hp upgraded internal and big external pump)

like to hear from d1x folks, my first big cent blower

no doubt I need bigger injectors 210s or 220s

laid out the parts and we're missing some bolts and stuff

is there a parts sheet that has bolt specs? Time to call A& A get the missing stuff and get this build moving.

looks like I'm missing some key parts on the blower bracket. no instructions either so it's time to fix that.

might spring and order a new bracket, and use the other one once I figure out the missing parts for the D1SC blower

josh stepped up and helped me out with reviewing the kit and getting me the missing parts plus some cool instructions. A&A website also has the blower belt calculator.

The new direct drive looks really trick. Josh was very open and honest about user issues with the acc drive belt slipping and what to do about it. From my view, the balancer and drive pulleys will spin just the power steering and alternator just fine

very nice design! I will be back again for more. My d1sc is also calling and now I have another vette begging for it. It's a pretty healthy piece and looking to also boostamuv!!

Sub’d. Sounds like its gonna party. Lets us know how it goes:thumbs:

slow. we are fixing ****ly problems today. Replacing window regulator. Wipers are hitting hood. But parts are rolling in and the tear down will start tomorrow to get the balancer on

I checked my pulley size and the nice one is a 3.5 blower plus the innovators west OD balancer at 8 inch puts me at blower impeller limit of 62000 at 6600 rpms

so the pump gas tune would need to be more conservative and limit revs to 5500 or so and lower the "kill rpms" Or I need to pulley up a bit if I want to rev higher.

the d1x tends to be a bit "lazy" so I think I'll stick with the 3.5 and be a bit more conservative on the revs. I'm sticking with the ls3 intake and 6600 seems to be very safe limit

A bit more research, I'm going to run out of fuel pump Need to upgrade the external pump to something much stronger to do 1000 hp on e85

current a&a will run out of steam unless I stay with pump and race gas

time to rethink this a bit. I'll need bigger stuff.

so it looks like the a&a system I have is a 340 in tank and a 525 external rated for 1200 plus Fine on pump gas but a bit shy for e85

I think the system might handle it as those pumps are both pretty big

If I drop the tanks I'll upgrade. But I'm thinking an external pump upgrade is my best bet

blower guys, need your opinion here I currently have a 8" OD balancer and 3.5 griptech pulley which will put me at the 62k max blower speed at around 6600

probably the best for the street and the ls3 intake. I'm thinking a bigger pulley would be safer and allow me to rev a bit higher. Any suggestions?

I used an RPM 4 rib belt and tightened the shit out of it that runs from the balancer to the jack shaft to the power steering and alternator,Haven't had any slipping problems that I know of.

I decided to go 3.75 pulley and new belt. This will put the 62k blower max just over 7000 rpms where the cam peaks. Blower finally goes on the car this week. Been a long road.

I'm thinking Chris at ECS might be my best bet on tuning. LOTS of big blower tunes to sample and tweak and experience with c5s

I'm in Alex VA and will either drive up or have Chris remote tune on the Mustang Dyno and send back some street traces

I need to take the plunge and buy HP so I can load multiple tunes.

and so it begins. Got the steering rack out, old balancer off. The callies crank has a keyway (missing) and the crank has been pinned before.

Seems like the keyway is different than the "curved" back keyway and is straight. My mechanic who is really sharp thinks it might be better to pin the crank again rather than try to press the balancer on with the keyway

Anyone who has used the innovators west OD balancer have install tips? Looks like a special bolt and we're trying to validate the torq spec (235?) and make sure we can get this balancer installed right.

I'm thinking of ordering the summit crank pin kit and going that route. We can use the existing holes in the crank as a pilot and front pin the crank with a couple of pins.

Thanks for any help

found great instructions on Innovators West website, they recommend only 130 ft lbs on the bolt, and pinning the crank rather than rely on single keyway for applications over 750 hp

I am ordering the innovators west pin kit and put 3 pins in which should do it.

pinning the crank is very tricky this go around. The new IW pin kit puts 3 new pins in the crank. Crank has two keyways and one pin cut into it already.

we are trying to position the tool to cut 3 new holes fresh and avoid all the others.

there is also the opiton for 2 keyways, but then I need a different balancer.

Maybe 1 keyway, plus 2 pins would be strongest? need a keyway for the callies magnum crank. time to call callies and innovators west!!!

this is a bit more complex than my last harmonic balancer install!!!

ended up with a good compromise 1 keyway and 2 pins. That should be plenty strong enough to spin the d1x

the innovators west stuff and the website is a huge help.

poked around a bit and rotated the balancer a bit. now the keyway and all 3 pins will fit. time to drill that expensive crank. the "drill guide" uses extra long pins and stays in the balancer to make it really strong.

the pins go into the meat of the crank futher inboard rather than half crank/half balancer. Looks SOOO much stronger and to spin that d1x it's gonna have to be. Innovators west recommends dual keyways or this pin kit to go above the 8oo or so mark.

beefy!!

total blocker. the car has a double roller chain and when we torq down the balancer it locks up the engine pressing against the oil pump

need a different balancer clearanced for the double roller. A couple of questions. I either need to ship off the current balancer and have it clearanced or buy another one setup for the double roller timing chain

the Innovators West guys mentioned that with the callies crank it's to hard and a bad idea to try and pin the crank.

better to go with the double keyways. Innovators west can machine the existing one to the "super damper" setup with chamfered balancer with dual keyways

Anyone have these in stock ? Got a call into Innovators, anyone know turn around time to machine the balancer and broach the second keyway??

the balancer has halted the build and it's a cast iron beee otch with the wrong part!! The double roller chain spaces the oil pump forward and this balancer clamps on it and locks the engine up for lack of chamfer on the balancer cup shaft due to the dual timing chain.

I really don't want to go back to a single chain, and the dual key balancer sounds like the best solution.

thoughts ???

had a good chat with Josh from A&A and Chris and Doug from ECS. They both had very sound advice which was the same.

go back to a single chain. I chose the C5R chain with fresh gears, and I'll just get another keyway cut in the balancer

the C5R chain seems to have outstanding durability and there is NO reason to run the double roller chain. Need to remove the oil pump spacers, install the c5r timing and put the double keyway in.

I had a bit of trouble there. I could not get through to callies and not sure I have the right keyways. one side looks like a stocker with the curved base, and the other side is a 3/16 square keyway

you install the curved base, and then push in the straight 3/16 IW and the blower guys all recommend dual keyways as best. The load on the balancer at full boost is pretty big, and even with a 3 pin setup, it can break one, and the others follow.

Drilling into the forged callies crank will burn through a whole bunch of drill bits and they are long shank. So more delays!! The balancer goes back to IW for cutting the straight 3/16 keyway.