Is Auto Worth? Or Just Spend More For Manual?
Hey everyone,
I am looking to buy a ls2 corvette. Just asking around to see if the auto is worth it when trying to get any power. Not looking to do anything crazy to it (maybe just headers, intake, cam, and tune) but is the auto worth? Or should I spend the extra to get a manual. |
1. Why an LS2 specifically?
2. What do you want to do with it? |
You'll be better off with a manual since it has fewer moving parts and therefore fewer failure points. I went from a 2003 Z06 to a 2006 Z51 with an auto, and for me personally that was a mistake. I traded that car for a 2008 Z06 a few years later. And then I shredded the spider gears in the rear end at around 500rwhp. :lol: If you're making a drag car, nothing has the consistency of an auto, but some of the fastest C6s on the fast list are manuals.
That said, if you can manage a 2008 or newer, then not only will you get the LS3, you'll also get the more robust TR6060 as opposed to the venerable T56. Just bear in mind that the rear end is a potential point of failure, so get to know RPM and put them on speed dial. You may end up with an RPM transmission at some point if you get an auto and/or an RPM differential with a manual. |
I don't think I'd be worried about it from a durability standpoint. On a narrow body, with a decent heads, cam, exhaust build, you're gonna have no hope for traction on narrow body tires anyways outside of drag radials on a prepped surface. If all you're doing is spinning, you're probably not gonna break anything as long as you're not getting wheel hop. You're just not gonna go anywhere.
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Manual>Auto Save the manuals!!!
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Originally Posted by Kevin Mason
(Post 1607619162)
1. Why an LS2 specifically?
2. What do you want to do with it? 2. Nothing too crazy, still want it as a daily but want to add a little mods to get it moving a little more! |
Originally Posted by VetteVinnie
(Post 1607619186)
You'll be better off with a manual since it has fewer moving parts and therefore fewer failure points. I went from a 2003 Z06 to a 2006 Z51 with an auto, and for me personally that was a mistake. I traded that car for a 2008 Z06 a few years later. And then I shredded the spider gears in the rear end at around 500rwhp. :lol: If you're making a drag car, nothing has the consistency of an auto, but some of the fastest C6s on the fast list are manuals.
That said, if you can manage a 2008 or newer, then not only will you get the LS3, you'll also get the more robust TR6060 as opposed to the venerable T56. Just bear in mind that the rear end is a potential point of failure, so get to know RPM and put them on speed dial. You may end up with an RPM transmission at some point if you get an auto and/or an RPM differential with a manual. |
Originally Posted by FAUEE
(Post 1607619483)
I don't think I'd be worried about it from a durability standpoint. On a narrow body, with a decent heads, cam, exhaust build, you're gonna have no hope for traction on narrow body tires anyways outside of drag radials on a prepped surface. If all you're doing is spinning, you're probably not gonna break anything as long as you're not getting wheel hop. You're just not gonna go anywhere.
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Originally Posted by christiannheavenn
(Post 1607619518)
Hey thanks for the response. I am not looking to make the c6 a drag car, but can you go more in depth about the difference between the TR6060 vs the T56?
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Sounds like your budget is limiting you to a 2005 - 2007 that has the LS2. There is nothing wrong with that platform and I have a 2006 base vert with a stick. It has all the power I need for my intended use. Based on the mods you were talking about that is going to cost a sizable amount of money. I suggest you go drive one of these cars and see what you think about power in both configurations.
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Originally Posted by christiannheavenn
(Post 1607619518)
Hey thanks for the response. I am not looking to make the c6 a drag car, but can you go more in depth about the difference between the TR6060 vs the T56?
For normal street driving, I regularly shift 1-3 to avoid double clutching. It's usually worse when cold. I recently bought a '09, which is affected. Wasn't a deal breaker. Even a pre LS3 isn't a slug. If you get one, drive it a while before you upgrade it. You might be surprised and keep it stock. |
Originally Posted by christiannheavenn
(Post 1607619506)
1. Ls2 platforms are cheaper on the market and im a college student that have been saving up for a c6.
2. Nothing too crazy, still want it as a daily but want to add a little mods to get it moving a little more! |
"College student and budget" are two conditions where I would steer you away from a 2005 model year. It was the first C6 and some of the parts are unique (especially electronics) and hard to find and the auto transmission is a 4-speed. Also, the differential was more prone to break under stress conditions. "Budget" would also indicate that your choice might have higher mileage and the condition of the manual clutch should be questioned, as they are not inexpensive to replace.The 2006-2007 LS2 automatic is the upgraded 6-speed, should you choose that option. The C6 is a true sports car and has plenty of power available in it's stock condition.
It is recommended that you might have your car professionally inspected prior to purchase, as you should for any used car purchase of this age (17+ years old) to ensure that you will not be faced with expensive repairs or maintenance following the purchase. Good luck on your decision and the right C6 can be a reliable automobile...GD |
What @GD said, above. Especially the pre-purchase inspection.
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Let's be real here. It's not gonna be a cream puff car, and as said, it's gonna be 15 years old. You don't need a PPI to know that it's gonna have problems . It WILL need constant maintenance. It's not a Corolla that you can buy and drive until you total it. It's gonna need tires, it's gonna need brakes it's gonna need suspension parts. It's gonna need headlights, it's gonna need radiator supports replaced when you crack that on a curb. Then you're talking about adding a cam too? Now it needs tuned, and you're probably gonna need tomeeplace valve springs due to higher lift.
Unless you have another car that's a reliable daily driver, a budget cammed c6 isn't a great choice for you. |
Originally Posted by oldcanuck
(Post 1607619924)
If you're a college student or anyone on a budget and either manual or auto works, I'd concentrate on vehicle condition and mileage rather than transmission type. Any LS2 will have more than enough power for a daily driver.
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AT vs MT is 100% personal preference. Some may argue that an AT is more expensive if failure occurs. However, I'll argue that the clutch, and hydraulics are more prone to failure and a pita. (I own both MT and AT cars) A 2006 or 2007 C6 is a great car for anyone. They are very easy to work on, but parts are getting more expensive.
This next statement will be unpopular, but as you are shopping for a car and don't already own it. Stay away from the 2005's. |
Originally Posted by R&L's C6
(Post 1607620682)
I know this won't be popular but lets face it,If you're a college student and on a tight budget, a C6 isn't for you.......YMMV
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Originally Posted by R&L's C6
(Post 1607620682)
I know this won't be popular but lets face it,If you're a college student and on a tight budget, a C6 isn't for you.......YMMV
If I could tell my undergraduate self anything about cars, it would be to forget about the performance cars until well after I graduated. :thumbs: |
Originally Posted by JABCAT
(Post 1607623102)
:iagree: 100%. And I'm speaking as someone who had performance cars throughout my undergraduate, graduate, and doctoral degrees. But I also had a full-time, decent paying job the entire time, and the vehicles were not nearly 20 years old either. Most were still under warranty so I didn't have to worry about repairs.
If I could tell my undergraduate self anything about cars, it would be to forget about the performance cars until well after I graduated. :thumbs: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1da68eaa06.jpg |
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