Would you build a .060 small block?
 

I've been searching for a block to start a build, I can buy a machined block .030 in the $1800-$2000 range to start a build from a parts house, I can find a block and have it machined in the $1500 range but I don't want to waste time trying to find a good block from a private seller.
I found a local guy who is a retired machinist, he has a fully machined and rotating assembly short block 383 for sale for $1800... a great deal but I don't get the experience of building my own short block, he also has a fully machined 350 010 block, he will install the cam bearings and plugs and sell it to me for $400... and says after I install rotating assembly bring it back and he will balance it all for free as he still has some of his equipment, however the block is .060 over.
I know .060 motors are clearly built otherwise they wouldn't sell .060 pistons and kits (I plan on using a summit eagle rotating assembly) but am I asking for trouble, I've searched older threads and found one where many say no worries and they build them all the time, another that most say not to do it.
I am not building a track car, looking for about a 300hp build for cruising.
have you built an .060 motor?

Dont want to pass up a $400 machined block, that's $1200-$1500 under another finished block and that would go a long way towards internals and heads

The guy is not trying to sell me a problem, I reached out about the 383 and we talked for a while, he brought up the 350 .060 over block but no pressure selling, frankly a nice retired machinest and older hot rodder, i am going to his home tomorrow morning to see what he has and talk.

Unless you are planning to drive the car 100,000 miles, I wouldn’t be worried about a 0.060” overbore.

You can get a running LS engine for the price of those parts house machined blocks. Possibly two. $400- for a bare block is not really a deal if you buy all new parts to populate it. A roller cam kit for that engine costs more than many running junkyard engines.

So the glib answer to your post's question: No. I would not build an SBC in any condition, especially one that could never be rebuilt. I wasted a bunch of time and money thinking I would.

For 300 hp, and $400-, I bet there are dozens of turning, possibly running, 2-bolt engines on Facebook that would work for you. Start tearing one of those apart. Maybe you'll find a gem!

But definitely go talk to that guy. Experience given for free is worth more than any junkyard engine. :thumbs:

Thanks guys... one "yes" and one "no"... just what I find online.
I DON'T want an LS so not sure how that's playing in to what im actually looking for and asking... never said LS and wasn't an option
bare blocks are $200-$500 and machine work, cam bearings and plugs are $1200-$1500 so don't understand a fully machined block with cam bearings and caps for $400 isn't a deal, I've been searching as much as I can for availability and prices, I'm not being sarcastic just asking about that statement.

I would guess my concern would be running temps, I don't know if that's old school thinking, I have a brand new 4 core "cool case" aluminum radiator with no cooling issues

.060 over, no problem, but ask the guy if he personally did a sonic check or magnafluxed it prior to doing the overbore. You might also ask why it required a .060 bore to clean it up, rusty walls, previous rebuilds/over-bores etc. If he seems like a straight shooter and doesn’t mind answering your questions perhaps you can move forward. You really should consider the 383 he’s told you about too. If you want the assembly experience, buy it take it apart and put it back together again.

We've got a .060 over 388" that's been running for 10 years at least in the 525HP range. It gets pounded over 7000 rpm every week in a C2.

JIM

I wouldnt worry about it. For that price its a good deal. I ran a .060 455 and never had an issue

Most will do a final hone to fit the pistons you use.
Might want to check actual size and make sure the ones you do get arent too loose or to tight.
Loose can be taken care of with the right brand/custom. If too tight,it would require another trip to the hone.

Great and thanks to all that responded, planning on asking all those questions and planned on calling a few local places to see who does sonic testing if he didn't already.

I am bringing the money for the built 383 as well just in case
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...bb9515606f.jpg


I will report back

One thing I do not understand is how he can balance the rotating assembly after it is installed. Doesn't that need to be done before install?

perhaps that's what he meant, I just assumed it needed to be done once installed.
I only spoke with him on the phone for a while and he said he still has some of his equipment, asked where i was getting my rotating assembly... i told him Summit and offered to balance the rotating assembly when i get one, just my assumption it was done in the block... my first time down this road

60 over is not an issue. I've got a few engines running 70 overbore.

a fully machined block for $400 is a good deal. if i walk into my local machine shop with a block i already owned and asked them to do all the work, it would cost me more than that.

thanks Joe, best I can tell in my area I'm gonna be north of $1000 and probably closer to $1500 for that work.
I'm going to his shop later this morning and im sure get more educated on this

The 383 would be a nice little torque monster......

OK again thanks to all that responded, 3 hour visit with the guy, great guy... older retired used to build sprint car motors and been a machinest his whole life, still has boring equipment, balancing machine and some other stuff and now a hobby but had some pretty cool stuff in his immaculate shop.
Had the 383 small block (no cam) there and a completely machined 4 bolt, 010 .060 over block, I could have purchased either ($1800 and $400)
he's got plenty of connections and uses a local machine shop he's know since the 80s for his line honing.
He actually talked me out of both blocks not on purpose, he would be happy to sell either to me, he's no longer building the 010, 2 piece rear main flat tappet blocks, says it's hard to find good hardened cams or at least at a decent price (said Howard's is good) he's just doing 1 piece rear main roller blocks and suggested if I'm in no rush he will help me locate a 880 or 638 block to build... he gave me other reasons as well so as I'm in no rush I'm gonna look for just that.
He can have one fully machined for about $700-$800 complete and he will do the balancing for an addition $100.
He wasnt negative about the older 010 block just said for the same money and perhaps even less I'm better off with a roller block, better options for internals as well... didn't try to sell me anything and gave me some good education as bikespace suggested.
Willing to give up plenty of time for me today and willing to help along the way in getting machine works done as well as some other things, having a local guy for a little coaching along the way will be nice so again just gonna take a little time to search for the block, if im unsuccessful after a while I will buy the 010 .060 over block and build it.

Again thanks.

I'm glad it worked out! Sounds like meeting this guy will turn out to be quite valuable.

I was "this close"* to having a roller-cam L98 engine out of a C4 to rebuild. 87-91 should have a roller cam (be sure to check!). You may be able to find one of those, or a ZZ4, or an L31, on Facebook Marketplace.

https://www.motortrend.com/features/...signer-series/

*36" or so, the distance from the ground to the bed of my truck. No one had a way to lift it.

I'm on the hunt, was well worth the visit not only for the education but the resource now.
he told me the numbers I'm looking for in that same year range, he said early on not all 1 piece rear mains were roller set ups but should be machined for it as GM was gearing up for it, and to make sure I have the mechanical fuel pump provision.

36"... i would have been like that grandma who lifted the truck off the kid.

I think you made a wise decision.
A sixty over block will run hard forever just like any thirty over block would.
The only problem is if something goes wrong on that sixty over block, then you might need to replace the block.
Good luck and keep us posted.

thank you and will do, if I were in need of a motor change right now it would be different, I can still buy a roller motor machined block online but $2k just to get one to my house, I'm in no rush and now have a machining connection so looking for a local block right now, emailed a few and waiting on responses, thanks again

Are you running a mechanical pump? You cannot with an 880 block. There are three advantages to the "roller" blocks. The thrust plate, the spider/dogbone lifter setup.....and a seal that has less potential to leak. Other than that....no other advantage,

The dogbone stuff is cool......build a few now and then.......but only good to about .550 lift.....I measured this last year.

If this guy is so good, why has he not suggested sonic checking the block? That is the tell.....most of the time .060 over is ok unless you get one with a lot of casting shift.....
You need at least .125 thickness on the cylinders and they go thin at he bottom of the water jacket.

Jebby