I changed the diagnostic switch about two years ago when I was getting code 32. I've been getting code 32 intermittent for four months now. Last week I got a solid 32, and the engine began running real rough, as well as occasionally stalling at idle. Do I need to go through all the steps outlined in the service manual, or can I just replace the EGR valve?
BTW, it's an 86 with a slightly modified L98, stock cats.

[This message has been edited by Narnian (edited 07-19-2001).]

Narnian,

I had the same problem, mine was a bad solenoid switch, it couldn't hold vacume.

Rich

Stumbling and stalling is usually the sign that the EGR valve itself isnt working right..like when it gets stuck open and wont close or etc.
Since its under the plenum, ts a little difficult to see what the valve diaphragm is doing..

On other cars, I was able to use my fingers and push up in the valve and see if it was stuck or if it moved up and down.
If you have a small mirror try to look under the egr valve through the side of the TPI and see if its closed.

Another way to check the valve...unplug the egr valve and put a cap on it..go for a drive and see if it runs any better.If it does, theres a good chance its the valve.

It always helps to go through the manual as well..it teaches you more how to troubleshoot it as you go along...so you can check the egr solenoid and etc as well.

See if it runs ok with the EGR vacuum unhhoked. If not, sometimes a piece of carbon gets lodged in the EGR seat causing constant EGR flow and a vacuum leak. The EGR temp switch will see heat and set a code 32. Sometimes it can be dislodged by opening the EGR valve, either by lifting the diaphragm or supplying full engine vacuum (temporarily only). Reving the engine may help dislodge the chunk of carbon.
If nothing works, replace the EGR valve!
Good luck!