Dreaded LT1 intake manifold leak -- how hard to fix?





So, how hard of a job is it to repair this leak? I have done the water pump/Opti and the front cover seals and crank, so is this job easier or harder than those? Am I correct in assuming that the water pump does not have to come off? I am tired of draing the coolant and removing the water pump! :cuss
Parts I know I need are 1) intake gasket 2) Copper RTV or The Right Stuff. What else? Thanks for the help. ;)
You'll need gaskets, liquid teflon (for the intake bolt threads) and RTV (to seal the intake ends). There are a few keys...
- Clean all the bolt threads and apply the liquid teflon. This prevents the oil from leaching out
- Clean all the sealing surfaces and then clean them again for good measure
- After reinstallation of the intake, allow the engine to sit overnight before starting it so that the RTV fully cures.
On the LT1/4 it's not a big deal.
- Pull off the "CORVETTE" beauty covers.
- Disconnect the various electrical connectors
- Remove the nuts that hold the electrical harnesses to each side of the intake
- Move the harnesses out of the way
- Remove the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rail in place
- Remove the fuel rail/injector assembly from the intake (leave attached to fuel lines and simply set it on a towel on the windshield)
- Remove the throttle body and the throttle cable
- Remove throttle cable bracket
- Remove any misc items/hoses...PCV valve & hose, AIR connections, EGR (on the LT1), etc.
- Remove the intake manifold bolts
- Remove manifold & old gaskets
- Clean, clean, clean the sealing surfaces
- Clean intake bolt threads
- Install new gaskets
- Apply RTV sealer to the block for the end seals
- Set intake in place. Apply liquid teflon to the intake bolt threads and torque bolts per Factory Service Manual specs and sequence
- Reassemble the remainder in reverse of above
That pretty much covers the major stuff.
3 to 5 hour job. 2 or slightly more if you can really spin the wrenches and everything goes your way.
:cheers:
[Modified by 96GS#007, 7:26 AM 7/8/2003]
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts







Also, be sure to protect the exposed areas of the engine from dirt, old pieces of gasket material, etc, as you don't want any contaminants getting into your oil, the lifeblood of your engine.
When the guys repaired my intake at CI-IV, I actually went ahead and changed the oil and filter, too, just to be on the safe side. :thumbs:
http://www.hashmarks.com/techtips/hot_cam.htm
LOTS of pics (thumbnails so it'll load pretty quickly even if you're using dial-up)
[Modified by Corvette1996LT1, 1:05 PM 7/8/2003]
Really good price, took them 5 hours (I think they milked it) but only charged the 3.something book time.


1. Buy a new EGR valve gasket. They get hard and brittle from the heat.
2. Buy new injector O-rings. On the 92 and 93 LT1, there is no need to remove the injectors from the fuel rails ~ but you will need to pop the rails and injectors out of the intake as an assembly and lay back while performing surgery. Lower o-rings seal the intake vacuum ~ it doesn't take much of a leak to cause performance problems.
~ Purp


Some actually take 3 in 1 oil and squirt it around all possible leak sources. When the leak seals up from the oil, the idle speeds up. This is messy and doen't work well on vertical surfaces.
~ Purp
And thanks for the reminder about the O-rings and EGR gasket!









