Thermostat ? And Recommendation
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 832
Likes: 1
From: Breckenridge Colorado
Thermostat ? And Recommendation
When I first got the car it ran a bit hot at about 200-210 most of the time. I have since replaced all the radiator seals and such and the temps have been perfect at about 190-195 most of the time. About 2 weeks ago my temps really dropped. The car takes a bit longer to warm up and it never gets much above 180 and alot of the time it is much less. I am thinking that the thermostat has gotten stuck open. Do you think that this is a good assumption or could something else be causing the sudden drop in temperature?
Next, if it is the thermostat I want to replace it rather than just unstick the old one. Would it be better to go with a high-flo 180 or 195 thermostat? I only drive the car in the summer with avg temps being between 45-75 degrees. The engine is a stroker 385 with vortec heads and comp XE282 cam and lifter set. Edelbrock carb and intake and it has the original radiator. I was gonna lean towards the 195 as this car does not run that well when its cold, but I do not want it to overheat.
Just looking for a few opinions from a few others before I replace it.
Thanks as always
Next, if it is the thermostat I want to replace it rather than just unstick the old one. Would it be better to go with a high-flo 180 or 195 thermostat? I only drive the car in the summer with avg temps being between 45-75 degrees. The engine is a stroker 385 with vortec heads and comp XE282 cam and lifter set. Edelbrock carb and intake and it has the original radiator. I was gonna lean towards the 195 as this car does not run that well when its cold, but I do not want it to overheat.
Just looking for a few opinions from a few others before I replace it.
Thanks as always
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 16,100
Likes: 17
Very possible your stat stuck open..some may not believe this,but I've heard of Delco's failing open sometimes...
180 F sounds ok in your situation..would not think a high flow is needed in your climate..195 is ok to,and would not "overheat" your engine..you would just bump the stat more often and it would modulate...
180 F sounds ok in your situation..would not think a high flow is needed in your climate..195 is ok to,and would not "overheat" your engine..you would just bump the stat more often and it would modulate...
Last edited by rihwoods; Sep 18, 2006 at 08:35 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 38
From: Newark DE
I see from your profile you don't have the stock motr and therefore none of the emissions crap. Based on that i'd recommend getting the Robert Shaw 180º t-stat (part#330-180). It's also sold under the Mr. Gasket brand name as part #4364
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 832
Likes: 1
From: Breckenridge Colorado
Originally Posted by BarryK
I see from your profile you don't have the stock motr and therefore none of the emissions crap. Based on that i'd recommend getting the Robert Shaw 180º t-stat (part#330-180). It's also sold under the Mr. Gasket brand name as part #4364
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Do you agree with rihwoods that you think my current one just got stuck open or could it be something else?
PS - I love this pic of your cats Barry. My guess is you did not ask them to sit there
Last edited by MartyW; Sep 18, 2006 at 09:21 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 832
Likes: 1
From: Breckenridge Colorado
What's so darn special about this gasket? Is it worth $13 as compared to $2.50 for a normal rubber one or $1.50 for a paper one. I was gonna grab that thermostat listed above and saw this gasket available and wondered; if it is any better then it would definately be worth the 10 bucks more when replacing - Almost spend 10 bucks on the collant alone to refill it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 832
Likes: 1
From: Breckenridge Colorado
Since no one mentioned anything about the above posted gasket, I did not get it. I went ahead and bought the 180 degree RobertShaw thermostat listed above and a normal Mr. Gasket gasket.
Thanks Again to all - I would just have gotten a NAPA brand thermostat as I did not know there was that much of a difference.
Thanks Again to all - I would just have gotten a NAPA brand thermostat as I did not know there was that much of a difference.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 38
From: Newark DE
Marty
$13 for a t-stat housing gasket is ridiculous. I get my t-stat housings from the local chevy parts dept and they have a similar type of rubber O-ring built in and only cost about $2.
no matter what type gasket I always use some permatex RTV on the gasket just where to see the rings on your pictures gasket - around the main opening and around both stud holes and I don't ever have any leaks.
The difference in the t-stats themselves is that if they fail, the Robert Shaw fails "open" to keep coolant flowing where most others fail closed restricting the coolant and causing you to overheat. The RS units are what called a dual flow path and it's the extra flow path that allopws the coolant to flow if it fails
BTW, I don't accept the cats as mine - they are my wifes cats. The dog is mine!
$13 for a t-stat housing gasket is ridiculous. I get my t-stat housings from the local chevy parts dept and they have a similar type of rubber O-ring built in and only cost about $2.
no matter what type gasket I always use some permatex RTV on the gasket just where to see the rings on your pictures gasket - around the main opening and around both stud holes and I don't ever have any leaks.
The difference in the t-stats themselves is that if they fail, the Robert Shaw fails "open" to keep coolant flowing where most others fail closed restricting the coolant and causing you to overheat. The RS units are what called a dual flow path and it's the extra flow path that allopws the coolant to flow if it fails
BTW, I don't accept the cats as mine - they are my wifes cats. The dog is mine!
Last edited by BarryK; Sep 19, 2006 at 06:01 PM.
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